Factory Trailer Brake Controller releases ...EDIT: STILL WAITING

jwilson2899

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Did anyone else find their controller put together BACKWARDS???

Look at my real controller AS IT ARRIVED, then look at the "instructions" and compare how it really is to how they say it is.......

I still have not found the mount points - I find nothing with holes spaced like this, but before that, it appears I have to take this apart and turn it around??
Who else has actually installed one themselves - is the book correct, or did the staff in Mexico do it right and the illisturator screwed up?

Oh, and the controller must have the circuit inside to isolate it from the brake light system as there's no diode in the cable that comes with these.

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I think it’s an instruction typo. Mine is like that too and installed just fine. The upper hole requires you to remove a clip that fastens the harness to the metal piece under the dash. They show it in the instructions, but it’s hard to see, I missed it the first time.



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jwilson2899

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So I just got done installing mine, it took about 45 minutes from start to finish. I’m bad at taking install pictures, but I did grab some of the finished product. Couple things to note:

1.The upper mount for the controller under the dash has a clip for wiring in it from the factory. You have to remove that clip and slide it out of the way, it’s just a push pin. The instructions show this, but not very clearly.
2. It’s nice and snug under there, I’m still unbending myself
3. The instructions show the proper operation of the controller, which I tested and it’s spot on.

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ShadowsPapa

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I think it’s an instruction typo. Mine is like that too and installed just fine. The upper hole requires you to remove a clip that fastens the harness to the metal piece under the dash. They show it in the instructions, but it’s hard to see, I missed it the first time.
Actually the instructions point to the lower hole to remove that clip. It's pretty clear the arrow points exactly to that lower hole that's next to another one by about half an inch. But mine was up in the top hole. They never pointed up there.
So they need to move their arrow to point to the top hole, not the bottom hole as it shows now.
I had to CUT mine to get it out. There was no other way.

If mine was flipped like I pictured as it came and not as it is in the instructions, it would shove those connectors hard up against another piece on the firewall. There's barely any clearance at all as it is, I have to flex that part out of the way to get mine in after flipping it.
If I installed it like it came, it wouldn't clear the firewall piece.
My wire bundle is so stiff and fat I can't hardly get room to get this worked up in there.
 

jwilson2899

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Actually the instructions point to the lower hole to remove that clip. It's pretty clear the arrow points exactly to that lower hole that's next to another one by about half an inch. But mine was up in the top hole. They never pointed up there.
So they need to move their arrow to point to the top hole, not the bottom hole as it shows now.
I had to CUT mine to get it out. There was no other way.

If mine was flipped like I pictured as it came and not as it is in the instructions, it would shove those connectors hard up against another piece on the firewall. There's barely any clearance at all as it is, I have to flex that part out of the way to get mine in after flipping it.
If I installed it like it came, it wouldn't clear the firewall piece.
My wire bundle is so stiff and fat I can't hardly get room to get this worked up in there.
Mine felt snug at first, then once I rotated it into package it has plenty of room

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ShadowsPapa

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Mine felt snug at first, then once I rotated it into package it has plenty of room

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BC0363E7-3D3F-4856-A3A3-3A3DE05A8A51.jpeg
That's how I had to install mine finally. There was no way in hell to get those plugs in the other direction. Mine has huge bundles of wire I couldn't get moved back or out far enough. Worse, when it was turned like the picture, the wires were pressed so hard against the big fat bundle - there wasn't a way to plug them in later.
Plugged in first like the pictures you couldn't get the studs through.
I don't know if it being 45 degrees made that big fat thick stiff bundle of wires that runs right up against that box was the issue or what, I even tried a long screwdriver to move the wire bundle back out of the way and there's not enough flex in it.
I did not put the clamps back on that big bundle - LOL - it can't move you can't even move it by hand without the straps holding it like your pic shows so I'm leaving them off.
This whole stupid controller has got my OCD in a tizzy - it's really the dumbest setup I've seen.
They obviously couldn't figure out where to put it and some clown said - put it here without actually seeing a truck all put together.

Now - the kicker - the instructions clearly, plainly and at least 6 times on two different pages show the controller the other way. I mean it's not a "typo" as there are several, not just one picture, several, through the whole thing, that show the connections facing the driver.
It clearly came the other way on that plate.
My question - since this is totally backwards from the instructions and at least half a dozen pictures plain as day showing it reversed - will it function?
I don't mean will you get power if you push the button - will it brake PROPERLY without touching that button. Will it learn, adapt and finally, will it apply brakes proportionally once it's actually hooked to a trailer and moving.
Pushing a button only tells you that there's power.
I want to know will it work installed flipped from the pictures, backwards from the instructions.
Has anyone actually TRIED it, or guessing?
 

tampahoosier

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FYI To All:

If you have the M.O.R.E. Off-road dead pedal you won’t be bolting in the trailer brake controller. It uses the same bolt holes at the dead foot pedal. I took the unit off the metal plate and just crammed it behind the metal plate back there. It’s snug so it won’t even rattle.

By the way... finding the trailer plug that Jeep tapped up back there to a wire was a bitch!
 

jwilson2899

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That's how I had to install mine finally. There was no way in hell to get those plugs in the other direction. Mine has huge bundles of wire I couldn't get moved back or out far enough. Worse, when it was turned like the picture, the wires were pressed so hard against the big fat bundle - there wasn't a way to plug them in later.
Plugged in first like the pictures you couldn't get the studs through.
I don't know if it being 45 degrees made that big fat thick stiff bundle of wires that runs right up against that box was the issue or what, I even tried a long screwdriver to move the wire bundle back out of the way and there's not enough flex in it.
I did not put the clamps back on that big bundle - LOL - it can't move you can't even move it by hand without the straps holding it like your pic shows so I'm leaving them off.
This whole stupid controller has got my OCD in a tizzy - it's really the dumbest setup I've seen.
They obviously couldn't figure out where to put it and some clown said - put it here without actually seeing a truck all put together.

Now - the kicker - the instructions clearly, plainly and at least 6 times on two different pages show the controller the other way. I mean it's not a "typo" as there are several, not just one picture, several, through the whole thing, that show the connections facing the driver.
It clearly came the other way on that plate.
My question - since this is totally backwards from the instructions and at least half a dozen pictures plain as day showing it reversed - will it function?
I don't mean will you get power if you push the button - will it brake PROPERLY without touching that button. Will it learn, adapt and finally, will it apply brakes proportionally once it's actually hooked to a trailer and moving.
Pushing a button only tells you that there's power.
I want to know will it work installed flipped from the pictures, backwards from the instructions.
Has anyone actually TRIED it, or guessing?
At least one guy, who I confirmed with him has mounted his the way it comes in the box, and towed a trailer with it, brakes all worked fine.
 

ShadowsPapa

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At least one guy, who I confirmed with him has mounted his the way it comes in the box, and towed a trailer with it, brakes all worked fine.
That's good - some confirmation it works installed backwards of the instructions.

- but still not sure I'm going to keep it. It lights up the dash in a VERY bad way if you accidently hit the button while driving - like reaching for the window switch or putting a mask over the t-case shifter, etc. Had to shut down and restart. Not sure how long that cheap-XXX knob setup is going to last.
I'm so disappointed in it in so many ways. I don't understand how it's any better than Redarc.
It's almost twice the cost of the 136 single mode Redarc but not nearly as well made.

It definitely was not tested in the JT, rushed to market, and the cheap knob setup - I wonder how long it will hold up to real use.
 

jwilson2899

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That’s not good about the issues with the dash. I need to try mine and see if that happens since I have the adaptive cruise. I wonder if the issue is the missing diode you discovered. I noticed that as well myself when I tested the cable.

That's good - some confirmation it works installed backwards of the instructions.

- but still not sure I'm going to keep it. It lights up the dash in a VERY bad way if you accidently hit the button while driving - like reaching for the window switch or putting a mask over the t-case shifter, etc. Had to shut down and restart. Not sure how long that cheap-XXX knob setup is going to last.
I'm so disappointed in it in so many ways. I don't understand how it's any better than Redarc.
It's almost twice the cost of the 136 single mode Redarc but not nearly as well made.

It definitely was not tested in the JT, rushed to market, and the cheap knob setup - I wonder how long it will hold up to real use.
 

jwilson2899

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That’s not good about the issues with the dash. I need to try mine and see if that happens since I have the adaptive cruise. I wonder if the issue is the missing diode you discovered. I noticed that as well myself when I tested the cable.
So as @ShadowsPapa has confirmed, this harness does not have the diode in line that’s needed to keep the dash from going crazy if you have adaptive cruise. I just tried it on mine and with or without a trailer hooked up, pressing the manual brake button causes the dash to light up like Christmas. The only fix is to stop, shut the truck off, then restart it. After that it’s good again until you press the button. Looks like the need to update the controller to truck harness to match the spec of their 3073-P harness. As a science experiment, I ordered one of those and I will test it against the included harness to see if the pins are the same, verify the diode is there, and if it fixes the problem.
 

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So as @ShadowsPapa has confirmed, this harness does not have the diode in line that’s needed to keep the dash from going crazy if you have adaptive cruise. I just tried it on mine and with or without a trailer hooked up, pressing the manual brake button causes the dash to light up like Christmas. The only fix is to stop, shut the truck off, then restart it. After that it’s good again until you press the button. Looks like the need to update the controller to truck harness to match the spec of their 3073-P harness. As a science experiment, I ordered one of those and I will test it against the included harness to see if the pins are the same, verify the diode is there, and if it fixes the problem.
I wonder if a flash would fix this? It’s not noted in the system but perhaps if a flash to add this in is done to the system it might correct it. I just finished installing mine, not a whole lot of work but I’m pretty pissed off. Knowing this now I would have just waited to see what happens, I don’t really tow anything at the moment that makes working without the trailer break a dealer breaker anyways.
 

jwilson2899

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I wonder if a flash would fix this? It’s not noted in the system but perhaps if a flash to add this in is done to the system it might correct it. I just finished installing mine, not a whole lot of work but I’m pretty pissed off. Knowing this now I would have just waited to see what happens, I don’t really tow anything at the moment that makes working without the trailer break a dealer breaker anyways.
The problem is there is nothing to flash. The controller just plugs into a basic 12v/ground/brake light plug. Almost every aftermarket controller has a diode in the brake light wire which stops the manual button from back feeding the brake light circuit. One side effect of this is that the manual button won’t activate the trailer brake lights. I bring This up because the users guide says right in it that manually activating the brakes will not activate the trailer lights. It’s like they describe a harness with a diode, then shipped it with one that doesn’t have one.
 

ShadowsPapa

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That's why I said this was not tested at all, rushed to market. Crazy that it costs almost double other controllers but doesn't even function properly.
For my truck it was a pain in the ass to install, too.
So now I have a brake controller that won't even work properly with my truck. Wonderful.
 

ShadowsPapa

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I wonder if a flash would fix this? It’s not noted in the system but perhaps if a flash to add this in is done to the system it might correct it. I just finished installing mine, not a whole lot of work but I’m pretty pissed off. Knowing this now I would have just waited to see what happens, I don’t really tow anything at the moment that makes working without the trailer break a dealer breaker anyways.
It doesn't touch the rest of the system.
So far not a single piece of evidence that configuration is needed. Instructions don't say anything about it.
This is a design flaw, a lack of testing.
 

atoy74

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Anyone have a video or pic of what it looks like if you hit the button?
 

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