My tranny fluid change

[Gren71]

There are just a mess of threads with little bits and pieces of phenomenal information spread throughout the forum. I’ve even started two or three with questions that have been answered as I started down this path. I figured I would just start one thread about the process I went through to maybe make it easier For someone else in the long run.

The general consensus from the manufacturer is to change the transmission fluid at around 60,000 miles for heavy use and 80,000 miles for normal use. Jeep however says the fluid is a lifetime fluid. I know there’s lots of debate and opinion here but I think it comes down to doing with your vehicle what you want. And I personally need this truck to last past 160,000 miles, so I’ll be swapping the fluid.

I tow pretty often with a heavy trailer, so I know I’ve already dropped the ball and I’m way past the point that I should have had the fluid changed.

In reading other people stories, the first fluid change is between five and 7 quarts for most people. So I have 7 quarts on order from a dealership through Amazon. That will be here soon.

Anyone who’s doing this needs to realize that when you are changing the fluid and dropping the pan to change the filter, you’re not actually changing all of the fluid. There is still a good volume left in the torque converter. So really you’re diluting the OEM fluid by maybe 50%? Not sure of the exact ratio but I have read it takes two or three of this style change to essentially completely swap the fluid.

I also already ordered and have a replacement filter and gasket, despite knowing the in-place gasket is “reusable“ I feel better having a spare in case something happens.

Gasket

Filter

I received some phenomenal advice and today went ahead and pulled a sample to send to blackstone labs before I do any fluid change. The idea being that you get a baseline sample data set before you do anything and if there is an issue I can just go to my dealer and say “hey look what I found let’s address this under my warranty”.

The process of getting the sample was… Interesting… Since I’m just a garage and driveway wrench turner I don’t have any lift to put it up on. And my driveway isn’t perfectly level so the jeep is a little nose high, which means the fluid will pool towards the back of the transmission pan where the fill hole is. needless to say a little more than I wanted came out… Overall I probably pulled 5 or 6 ounces out. Not sure how much that is in fluid volume but hopefully not enough to cause an issue while the sample goes out.

The next step for me will be waiting for the lab results to come back and as long as everything isn’t awful or requiring attention from the shop, i am going forward with doing the transmission fluid swap. I know there are a few videos out there, but here is the video I’ll be following to do mine.



I WONT be using the trans fluid additive he has. I know nothing about it and do the want to create an expensive mistake.

Here is what the oil looked like when it came out. Under a flashlight. It had some very small metallic flakes in it. But no big chunks. After it sat in the drain pan for a moment it kinda got a little cloudy, so not sure if that’s a normal or not… Smell wise I have no idea what it’s supposed to smell like, but it definitely didn’t smell like burnt oil.

** Any weird, grammar errors or words that just don’t seem to fit or because I’m too lazy to type this with my thumbs and used dictation on my phone. Apparently I have mush mouth and my phone doesn’t always understand the words I say unless I over annunciate them **

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[Hootbro]

Did you do the sample pull with the vehicle cold or hot? On a like overnight cold engine, a good portion of the fluid will drain back out of the torque converter and into the main sump pan. The other portion of the fluid that does not drain is held back within the transmission cooler and lines by the closed thermostat valve until the temp is above like 140F..

 

[Kevin_D]

Looking forward to your updates!

Kevin

 

[Gren71]

Did you do the sample pull with the vehicle cold or hot? On a like overnight cold engine, a good portion of the fluid will drain back out of the torque converter and into the main sump pan. The other portion of the fluid that does not drain is held back within the transmission cooler and lines by the closed thermostat valve until the temp is above like 140F..

I did a lap around my development and let the transmission get to about 85° before pulling into the driveway to do the sample. I wanted to at least get it to the bottom temperature range. It’s supposed to be in when I fill it. I have no logic behind the thought process… Just seemed like the right thing to do. I also didn’t want to burn the crap out of my hands with 100+ degrees oil.

Blackstones sheet suggest letting it run for at least 15 minutes before doing the sample, but also says it’s fine if you can’t.

 

[Hootbro]

I did a lap around my development and let the transmission get to about 85° before pulling into the driveway to do the sample. I wanted to at least get it to the bottom temperature range. It’s supposed to be in when I fill it. I have no logic behind the thought process… Just seemed like the right thing to do. I also didn’t want to burn the crap out of my hands with 100+ degrees oil.

Blackstones sheet suggest letting it run for at least 15 minutes before doing the sample, but also says it’s fine if you can’t.

I would have done it that way also. You probably did not loose that much fluid then when you pulled the sample. Had it been overnight cold, at least a couple of quarts would have puked out the level/fill plug.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

I guess I’d be concerned that you didn’t put back in the amount that came out. My understanding is you don’t have your new oil yet.

Take for example in the video you’re going by, didn’t that guy find his levels from the factory were low? You take a risk taking fluid out and not replacing if your levels were low from the factory too.

When you do finally get your oil and you do the pan drop, please level your frame, tires off the ground and because you pull a trailer, you’d want to read a correct oil level more on the cooler side of the temp window than hotter side. Thanks for posting this.

 

[Gren71]

I guess I’d be concerned that you didn’t put back in the amount that came out. My understanding is you don’t have your new oil yet.

Take for example in the video you’re going by, didn’t that guy find his levels from the factory were low? You take a risk taking fluid out and not replacing if your levels were low from the factory too.

When you do finally get your oil and you do the pan drop, please level your frame, tires off the ground and because you pull a trailer, you’d want to read a correct oil level more on the cooler side of the temp window than hotter side. Thanks for posting this.

Yeah, this is definitely an experiment and I’m hoping the small volume that came out wasn’t a big deal. I can’t see that it would be given a swap is 5 to 7 quarts and that’s not even the total fluid volume in there. And the small volume that came out was maybe 6oz of fluid. ?‍ guess well see if i get a Christmas tree dash while driving over the next couple days haha

And absolutely when I actually do the fluid swap, I have to figure out a way to get the frame level. The best I’ve come up with so far is to put stands under the rear axle in my driveway ( since pulling into my driveway, facing my garage, puts the vehicle nose high) and try and get it as level as possible. Unfortunately that doesn’t give me a ton of room to work.

I guess I could also get two additional jackstands and just put both axles on them and figure out where level is. That just makes me super nervous given the minor slope of my driveway I really prefer to have tires on the ground in some fashion.

What I can’t wrap my head around is where to put a physical level on the vehicle to make sure I am as level as possible.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Yeah, this is definitely an experiment and I’m hoping the small volume that came out wasn’t a big deal. I can’t see that it would be given a swap is 5 to 7 quarts and that’s not even the total fluid volume in there.

And absolutely when I actually do the fluid swap, I have to figure out a way to get the frame level. The best I’ve come up with so far is to put stands under the rear axle in my driveway ( since pulling into my driveway. Facing my garage puts the vehicle nose high) and try and get it as level as possible.

What I can’t wrap my head around is where to put a physical level on the vehicle to make sure I am as level as possible.

I use a 5' level that's magnetized. I have rock sliders that I stick it too along the side, then place it across the front bumper and across the rear bumper. How much of a slope is your driveway? Do you have a garage to pull into that is more level?

 

[Gren71]

I use a 5' level that's magnetized. I have rock sliders that I stick it too along the side, then place it across the front bumper and across the rear bumper. How much of a slope is your driveway? Do you have a garage to pull into that is more level?

I don’t have a gauge to measure the slope of the driveway, but it’s definitely not drastic by any means. I really think putting the rear up on jackstands with four-wheel-drive engaged so my front wheels don’t move should be able to bring me level.

And that’s a phenomenal idea with a magnetic level. Your process seems very similar to what I do to level a camper so that shouldn’t be hard to wrap my head around.

 

[Hootbro]

I just used a digital level but my driveway only had a 1 degree slope so it was not that big of a deal to level out.

An idea would be to find a relatively known level spot and measure with a digital level gauge using your tailgate and side bed rails for the x/y axis and measure it and use that reference at home.

I used something similar to this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Digital-Angle-Gauge-and-Digital-Leveler-935DAG/311131769

 

[Maximus Gladius]

I don’t have a gauge to measure the slope of the driveway, but it’s definitely not drastic by any means. I really think putting the rear up on jackstands with four-wheel-drive engaged so my front wheels don’t move should be able to bring me level.

And that’s a phenomenal idea with a magnetic level. Your process seems very similar to what I do to level a camper so that shouldn’t be hard to wrap my head around.

My level is a 4’. You’ll not want your 4x4 engaged. Turn off traction control so the front wheels don’t spin and you won’t throw a code.

My slope is 3” in 17’.

 

[Gren71]

My level is a 4’. You’ll not want your 4x4 engaged. Turn off traction control so the front wheels don’t spin and you won’t throw a code.

My slope is 3” in 17’.

I suppose I should do a string level and figure out the slope. That will probably help me figure out how much ill need to lift the front or rear to level. It won’t be exact since I’m sure the degree of slope isn’t constant from the garage to the end of the driveway. But it will I give me a ballpark.

 

[Jeepasaurus_Rex]

After a few times in Thailand, I've learned to stay away from tranny's and their fluids

 

[mx5red]

I think it would be easier and safer to just build some ramps out of some boards, drive rear wheels onto them..

 

[Gren71]

Finally got my results from Black Stone labs.
Pretty surprising to be honest, and sorta makes me feel less urgent to do the fluid swap since the fluid seems to be holding up good.

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