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Need Help taking Falcon Stabilizer Bolt out - Falcin / Teraflex Customer service needed

Sempe-Fi Rubicon

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Well, if you were the first, than you now have an unhappy companion to share in your frustration.
Guess I was the lucky one, other than burning the crap out of my finger with the heat gun.
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Rubi_Rue2021

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That's what happened to me. The bad part is/was that now even if you get the bracket off, how will you tighten it to the new bracket? That's close to where I was and I could work it back and forth but not off.



Looks like It will have to replaced too. Ugh...
Yup, I had the same issue with the stabilizer I ordered on black Friday. Exact same problem. I was also told this happens quite often by the person I called into.
Seems as if they put too much lock tight from the factory.


mailed mine off to them last Monday. Right before this thread was created.
 

THE SANDALORIAN

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Guess I was the lucky one, other than burning the crap out of my finger with the heat gun.
Yeah, read that yours went well so was excited to get mine done. Excitement quickly turned to frustration though. I fortunately did not burn my finger, so I guess I got that going for me?
 

Rubi_Rue2021

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They sell the stabilizer, and the clamp as an addon piece, but basically used so much loctite that no one can even use the clamp without completely destroying the stabilizer mounting bolt.

hopefully Falcon gets this figured out because its not a good look.
 

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If anyone is having issues with the heim stud on your stabilizer, please shoot us a direct message I'll do my best to help out and help get everything taken care of.

The biggest trick to removing the brackets/clamps is heat. The green Loctite melting point is 450+ degrees, so it takes a lot of heat to melt and break the bond. That, and keep in mind the stud needs to be spun clockwise when removing. It's the combo of those 2 that can make the removal difficult. For clarity, the reason for both the green Loctite and and the "reverse thread" is during development we found that the stud could start to come loose and unthread from the mount, which is obviously not good. The Loctite and threading direction stops that from happening.
 
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Oak

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Thanks...I didn't see anything green on the threads but like others stated it was too hot to touch and the o ring didn't hold up when heating. That made me worry that it could be too hot. Maybe a stronger or different type of head on the stud.
 

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If anyone is having issues with the heim stud on your stabilizer, please shoot us a direct message I'll do my best to help out and help get everything taken care of.

The biggest trick to removing the brackets/clamps is heat. The green Loctite melting point is 450+ degrees, so it takes a lot of heat to melt and break the bond. That, and keep in mind the stud needs to be spun clockwise when removing. It's the combo of those 2 that can make the removal difficult. For clarity, the reason for both the green Loctite and and the "reverse thread" is during development we found that the stud could start to come loose and unthread from the mount, which is obviously not good. The Loctite and threading direction stops that from happening.


Tough to ask more than the above from a vendor. Kudos to Teraflex on stepping up
 

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Another tip when breaking loose stubborn bolts. Two actually.
Use a good quality bit of the proper size.
Don't go cheap and don't try to get away with an SAE close enough fit.
Heat the piece and drive the bit into the hex socket, tapping it firmly downward. The impact will help to create some free play in the threads and in the loctite.
40 foot pounds isn't much, so if it's not moving, back off and reheat.
 

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Also, NEVER use any type of impact on an internal stud, ie. allen or torx, they just strip. Honestly, regular old 'L' shaped allen keys are the right size to limit the amount of torque that you can apply before having problems. If you need more leverage, then you need heat or penetrant or prayer.
 

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If anyone is having issues with the heim stud on your stabilizer, please shoot us a direct message I'll do my best to help out and help get everything taken care of.

The biggest trick to removing the brackets/clamps is heat. The green Loctite melting point is 450+ degrees, so it takes a lot of heat to melt and break the bond. That, and keep in mind the stud needs to be spun clockwise when removing. It's the combo of those 2 that can make the removal difficult. For clarity, the reason for both the green Loctite and and the "reverse thread" is during development we found that the stud could start to come loose and unthread from the mount, which is obviously not good. The Loctite and threading direction stops that from happening.
DM sent. Appreciate the response.

Is there a way to provide the stabilizer back to the customer without the bracket attached (still including the bracket and bolt, just not attached to the stabilizer)? For those of us going with a larger than factory tie rod, this seems like it would help to prevent this situation from happening. I am dreading attempting to remove the bracket a second time.

Again, thank you for your response.
 

TeraFlex

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DM sent. Appreciate the response.

Is there a way to provide the stabilizer back to the customer without the bracket attached (still including the bracket and bolt, just not attached to the stabilizer)? For those of us going with a larger than factory tie rod, this seems like it would help to prevent this situation from happening. I am dreading attempting to remove the bracket a second time.

Again, thank you for your response.
No problem at all! Happy to help out.

Yes, if desired we can repair/service the Falcon stabilizer's and not install a clamp or bracket on it; all that would be needed is to specify that you want a "blank" heim stud.
 

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I don't have any intentions of a lift anytime soon, but after seeing the customer support, TeraFlex would be at the top of my list!
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