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BAT

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If I had the $$ I'd buy one because I like the looks and for better winch clearance. I did run the cable out the side of the winch, but still if removing a grill for other work, the extra clearance would be nice - and I like the looks.
They don't do grill re-designs just for kicks so I have to wonder - why spend the money on design and engineering?
That is my interest in it for winch clearance and ability to take the grill off and on easily
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That is my interest in it for winch clearance and ability to take the grill off and on easily
Yeah, when running all the wires for my snow plow, it was really tight getting the grill loose. The cable clears because like I said, it's out the side of the winch now, but getting to the headlights, and the wiring up there, grill's gotta come out. Would be nice for that.

Jeep Gladiator New 2024 grill insert experiment 1691592930358
 
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If I had the $$ I'd buy one because I like the looks and for better winch clearance. I did run the cable out the side of the winch, but still if removing a grill for other work, the extra clearance would be nice - and I like the looks.
They don't do grill re-designs just for kicks so I have to wonder - why spend the money on design and engineering?
2 BIG points for me, I like the look and the extra room between the grill and the winch will make removing the grill alot easier!!
 

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The way I see it, the only true way to measure your cooling efficiency would be to measure the coolant flow rate going in/out of your radiator, because the engine cooling system thermostat is going to automatically adjust this flow rate to maintain its set temperature to within maybe a couple of degrees. Maybe you install some kind of flow meter, or jam up your thermostat so that it stays open all the time.
 
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The way I see it, the only true way to measure your cooling efficiency would be to measure the coolant flow rate going in/out of your radiator, because the engine cooling system thermostat is going to automatically adjust this flow rate to maintain its set temperature to within maybe a couple of degrees. Maybe you install some kind of flow meter, or jam up your thermostat so that it stays open all the time.
Im not sure this would be an ideal indicator of effective or ineffective cooling, at least not as effective as measuring air flow or temperatures. The way I think it through the coolant would pump or flow in relation to the need of the cooling system. The need of the cooling system would be based on how effective the air flow is at assisting with heat exchange. I can see where it could change in relation to the demand on the system, but I think measuring this would be problematic. Im fairly certain its a pressurized system isnt it? I absolutely dont know enough about the fluid flow portion of the cooling system to start tinkering.
 

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I can't help but think that all the new holes in between the slots are just to make up for the overall smaller size of the grill, ("it looks like a Renegade grill, smooshed JL grill, etc...") so maybe the additional ventilation is just compensating for that? @ajkaz
This is a definite possibility! We'll need to barrow a flow bench to test it out!
 

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I've owned several late model Ford Super Duty diesel trucks. On the 2011-2016 Super Duty with the 6.7L Powerstroke, the radiator tanks are known the crack. A lot of people put very expensive and nice looking Mishimoto upgrade radiators into their trucks thinking the problem would be solved, but these radiators cracked as well and Mishimoto would not stand behind their product...I'm not sure I'd say their quality is second to none.
Agreed several other unresolved Mishimoto product issues out there. Very far from second to none.
 
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Updated the first post with more towing data and some info on CP2. I was curious what the grade was of the bridge I cross during my testing travel path. Ballpark I got about %3 grade for both up and down. Not a lot, but its something.
 

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The way I see it, the only true way to measure your cooling efficiency would be to measure the coolant flow rate going in/out of your radiator, because the engine cooling system thermostat is going to automatically adjust this flow rate to maintain its set temperature to within maybe a couple of degrees. Maybe you install some kind of flow meter, or jam up your thermostat so that it stays open all the time.
These normally operate within a wide range of temperatures. I've seen mine go from 190 to 195 to 205, then back down into the high 190s again and so on - all just a normal drive on the highway. It controls temperature using the stat and the fan.
All the stat does is set the minimum. That's as cold as it's going to run - it can otherwise run in a fair range of normal above that.
the thermostat is also part of the housing. These aren't quite as simple as a 1994 4.0

You would have to maintain a constant coolant flow and measure temperature going in vs. coming out and measure the temperature coming out of the radiator - either locking the fan on, or locking it off, and driving the exact same speed with the exact same air temperature during each test.
 

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Yeah last week on the beach in OBX, NC.

Deep sand, mid 80s ambient air temp, sunny w/ light ocean breeze, 4Hi w/ real locker engaged, traction & Stability controls all disabled

Coolant temps: 195 - 212 avg
Trans temps: 190 - 207 avg
Oil temp: 210-230 avg
 

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Yeah last week on the beach in OBX, NC.

Deep sand, mid 80s ambient air temp, sunny w/ light ocean breeze, 4Hi w/ real locker engaged, traction & Stability controls all disabled

Coolant temps: 195 - 212 avg
Trans temps: 190 - 207 avg
Oil temp: 210-230 avg
Pretty typical of numbers I see driving on the highway on a typical day.
 

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I feel like this could be effectively tested in a day or two with a dyno rental, no? Chart temps over time for a controlled run.
 

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I feel like this could be effectively tested in a day or two with a dyno rental, no? Chart temps over time for a controlled run.
No.
How can you simulate wind against the front of the truck?
 
 







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