No Pads To Be Found???

[ShadowsPapa]

I'm glad you confirmed your pads are good to go.

I doubt your caliper is making contact with the barrel of the wheel. While the gap between them is small, there are many examples of less gap in wheel/brake setups. My GT4 is closer to the wheel than the Gladiator and it doesn't touch.

What it does do, and what I suspect you are seeing, is create a nice spot for rocks and stones to get stuck between the caliper and wheel resulting in that scoring you see on the wheel.

Good point. And some shops use wheel weights that are lower profile than others. We've seen some use pretty thick weights and those get ripped off while the low profile ones clear.
Hadn't thought of the rocks and grit getting in there, even a twig could do it.

Sponsored

 

[Eric Kern]

I'm glad you confirmed your pads are good to go.

I doubt your caliper is making contact with the barrel of the wheel. While the gap between them is small, there are many examples of less gap in wheel/brake setups. My GT4 is closer to the wheel than the Gladiator and it doesn't touch.

What it does do, and what I suspect you are seeing, is create a nice spot for rocks and stones to get stuck between the caliper and wheel resulting in that scoring you see on the wheel.

Possible, from looking at the pictures tho I do see a black line and some light polishing on the caliper which lines up exactly with the witness mark on the wheel, hopefully It was just some rocks or some wedges between. Just went for a quick ride, didn’t hear the grinding, keeping my fingers crossed…

 

[Eric Kern]

Good point. And some shops use wheel weights that are lower profile than others. We've seen some use pretty thick weights and those get ripped off while the low profile ones clear.
Hadn't thought of the rocks and grit getting in there, even a twig could do it.

Yeah It looked like the weights were just barely missing the tightest area of the caliper, but then again the shop that did my MT/RS did quite a shitty job of balancing the wheels (weights all over the place), sort of got the idea they had never done a 35 before etc etc either way, didn’t see any marks on the faces of the weights and all weights look present, gotta go for a good 35/40 minute drive around noon, will update then.

(Soldering the defroster button back to my rear window at the moment) ??

 

[iammacey]

Possible, from looking at the pictures tho I do see a black line and some light polishing on the caliper which lines up exactly with the witness mark on the wheel, hopefully It was just some rocks or some wedges between. Just went for a quick ride, didn’t hear the grinding, keeping my fingers crossed…

Yep. I had a rock stock in one of my GT4 wheels. Scored almost the entire barrel and matched scratching on the caliper. Never heard a thing.

The wheels weights are also a good call and possibility.

 

[alyn]

Has anyone replaced their brake pads yet? I have 42k on my LE, starting to get a grinding noise during braking from the rear (squeelers are present but never squeeled). Anyways, assuming it’s the pads, hard to tell without removing the tire. Checked Advanced Auto, Napa, O Reilly’s, none of them even list rear pads on their websites….with very limited options for fronts…has anyone done a pad replacement yet? Do you have to go with $200 worth of Mopar pads?

TIA as always
-E

Try Detroit Axle. The rear brakes on my JU were gone at 33k. The fronts looked brand new. The Detroit Axle brakes were drilled and slotted rotors.Ceramic pads,hardware and brake clean/fluid.

 

[Eric Kern]

Try Detroit Axle. The rear brakes on my JU were gone at 33k. The fronts looked brand new. The Detroit Axle brakes were drilled and slotted rotors.Ceramic pads,hardware and brake clean/fluid.

Will do! Thanks for the lead!

 

[kevman65]

Rockauto.com shows front and rear in stock, from OEM to heavy duty.

 

[Planerdude]

Has anyone replaced their brake pads yet? I have 42k on my LE, starting to get a grinding noise during braking from the rear (squeelers are present but never squeeled). Anyways, assuming it’s the pads, hard to tell without removing the tire. Checked Advanced Auto, Napa, O Reilly’s, none of them even list rear pads on their websites….with very limited options for fronts…has anyone done a pad replacement yet? Do you have to go with $200 worth of Mopar pads?

TIA as always
-E

4 rotors and pads 4 200 bucks?

 

[Planerdude]

Looks like extreme terrain has a bunch.
https://www.extremeterrain.com/jeep-gladiator-brake-pads-2020.html

Seems really strange that the rear would be going before the fronts.

My 2014 JK rear pads were toast at 40,000, while fronts were 75% good. Go figure?

 

[rowbarre]

My 2014 JK rear pads were toast at 40,000, while fronts were 75% good. Go figure?

That's caused by the BLD (brake lock differential) system doing its thing. Pretty common on Jeeps without lockers.

 

[Mtpisgah]

On my Saab, BMW and Subaru WRX I had to replace the rotors every time I replaced the pads. Is that generally the case with Jeeps? I know it comes down to rotor thickness, but there should be a rule of thumb.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Depends on your driving, your roads, dust and dirt, water, salt, snow and ice and more. I've seen identical cars where one needed pads and rotors at 50k while the other went 100,000 and needed only pads and the rotors turned.
Dirt and grit and rust embed in the pads and really wear rotors.

 

[Mtpisgah]

I guess I should have specified that the other cars I mentioned said the rotors could not be turned, replacement was necessary. I always questioned this but after checking the remaining thickness, turning would not get me enough extra mileage to make it worth it. Hoping the Jeep rotors are thicker.

I do not think drilled and slotted rotors would be right on a Jeep, not that they really made a difference on the other vehicles, not even the WRX.

Sponsored