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tbiblecg

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2020 Gladiator Rubicon 3.6L with 46k miles

While driving the a/c and radio quickly powered off and back on twice. Got home shut the jeep off and it would not restart. The dash WAS displaying service power steering. Had it towed to a local shop due to no available appointments with jeep until March 30th and after 4 hours they were unable to diagnose the problem. Had it towed back home and started inspecting everything, all fuses tested fine, swapped relays around between start/stop, start, to hvac blower and wipers. All relays are seated properly and grounds test good with no shorts. I personally believe the problem may be the alternator because while off the battery is reading 12.8V it has magically started now after being home and before I started messing with relays and fuses and while running its reading 11.8 V and dropping to 11 volts. Now the battery light is on and the dash as you can see is displaying start/stop service. Its starting fine every time right now but I am seeking advice because I live on an Island (Virgin Islands) I'm AD military and this is my only vehicle. On top of the local jeep dealership not having time for me until the end of march. I am leaning towards ordering an alternator just wanted to hear opinions. I've read other post in the past few days on here with similar issues but haven't seen anything exactly the same as mine. If I missed a post similar, please forgive me for making a new thread.

Update: So, I've continuously gone out looking at things and testing and while off the battery voltage is 12.8 initial start it climbs to 14.2 then slowly drops back to 12.6/.8 while running. After a few moments all electronics including the cluster shut off and the jeep starts running rough as if it's on 2/3 cylinders slowly losing power until it dies. It restarts every time but not lights or electronics work Battery still reads 12.8 volts.

Update: After reading through almost every post on this page I decided to bypass the aux battery and remove F42 fuse and low and behold it's been running for 30 minutes little to no problems and no lights. To bypass the aux battery i removed fuse F42 connected aux battery power to main battery power and taped off aux battery negative. I chose to go under the fuse box to get to the aux battery vs the fender and it was super easy.

Thank you in advance for your time.

-Tim

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tbiblecg

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That is what you get by doing a little research! Awesome! Are you going to leave it that way or replace the Aux battery?
I am going to replace the aux battery asap because I have a engine light on just want it back factory the only problem is that battery is $350 in shipping the US Virgin Islands haha so I may have to wait until July when I move to Miami.
 
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tbiblecg

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I had something weird happen. After doing the bypass my backup camera would not work nor would my air conditioner like the compressor would not kick on. I read mixed things saying to leave the negative disconnected, but I connected it to the main negative and they work but then I get the exact same start/stop alarm on the dash with the little lightning bolt and battery symbol which is weird because I thought the aux negative was a loop from the main battery anyway. Since... I have disconnected it and now for some weird reason the ac works, no backup camera and I still have the codes, but everything is working well. I am absolutely lost but at least its working again Haha. I have an appointment at the dealership March 30th.
 

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Lost1wing

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I had something weird happen. After doing the bypass my backup camera would not work nor would my air conditioner like the compressor would not kick on. I read mixed things saying to leave the negative disconnected, but I connected it to the main negative and they work but then I get the exact same start/stop alarm on the dash with the little lightning bolt and battery symbol which is weird because I thought the aux negative was a loop from the main battery anyway. Since... I have disconnected it and now for some weird reason the ac works, no backup camera and I still have the codes, but everything is working well. I am absolutely lost but at least its working again Haha. I have an appointment at the dealership March 30th.
I am glad you have it going for now. You may want to advise your dealer so they can have a battery on hand for your visit. They should, but you never know.

I'm wondering if you could charge the aux battery and the main fully, hook it all back up and clear the codes to see if everything starts working. Then you can pull f42 and Isolate the aux battery again.
 
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tbiblecg

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I am glad you have it going for now. You may want to advise your dealer so they can have a battery on hand for your visit. They should, but you never know.

I'm wondering if you could charge the aux battery and the main fully, hook it all back up and clear the codes to see if everything starts working. Then you can pull f42 and Isolate the aux battery again.
Good idea, I will try that thank you!
 

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FYI, you can use your multimeter to also check your alternator. I noticed at first you were considering getting a new one. Using the multimeter to test alternator can save you some wasted $$. Glad you figured out the six issue.
 
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tbiblecg

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FYI, you can use your multimeter to also check your alternator. I noticed at first you were considering getting a new one. Using the multimeter to test alternator can save you some wasted $$. Glad you figured out the six issue.
I know it's possible but without a bench and test light or wire I think it would be kind of hard, I live in a condo, so I'm limited to a multi meter and a small toolbox. I appreciate the feedback. I was planning to take it off and have napa bench test before purchasing.
 
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tbiblecg

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I am glad you have it going for now. You may want to advise your dealer so they can have a battery on hand for your visit. They should, but you never know.

I'm wondering if you could charge the aux battery and the main fully, hook it all back up and clear the codes to see if everything starts working. Then you can pull f42 and Isolate the aux battery again.
Charged the main battery, kept the aux bypass, disconnected the negative for about 10 mins and a/c as well as backup camera are now working. All lights are gone on the cluster as well.
 

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Isolate the aux battery from the main battery and charge that as well. Then check each to see if one or the other is failing.
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