On/off switch for winch controller

[SwampRat91]

I used the Warn Power Interrupt Kit with my winch install. Also, I have the Voswitch switch panel. When using the Voswitch with the Warn interrupt kit just leave the switch supplied with the interrupt kit out of the install, your Voswitch will be the control (switch).

Did you mount your voswitch box on the drivers side? Mines on the passenger side and I’m trying to figure out where I am going to mount the power interupter!

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[Bobchadwickga]

I’m not the person you want to ask about electrical stuff lmao

You and me both!

 

[mdyucca]

Did you mount your voswitch box on the drivers side? Mines on the passenger side and I’m trying to figure out where I am going to mount the power interupter!

Yes I mounted the Voswitch on the driver side. With your Voswitch on the passenger side I believe there will be enough room under the Voswitch box to mount the interupter solenoid under the box.

 

[SwampRat91]

Yes I mounted the Voswitch on the driver side. With your Voswitch on the passenger side I believe there will be enough room under the Voswitch box to mount the interupter solenoid under the box.

That’s where all my wires coming from my bumper lights are tan lol…. I will figure it out!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

That’s where all my wires coming from my bumper lights are tan lol…. I will figure it out!

Keep the wires SHORT as far as the winch feed.
In other words - keep that winch solenoid (interrupter, whatever) close to the main battery. And keep it close to the winch.
The wire length to control the solenoid isn't nearly as important as keeping the high current big wire between battery and solenoid, and between solenoid and winch as short as you can keep them.
This is one reason my solenoid is close to the battery - and between battery and winch. I want the cables as short as possible. Long cables under a heavy load mean voltage loss - and heat.
I may try to find and use a slightly shorter cable between battery and solenoid on mine. I'm using what came with the solenoid kit but may go shorter if possible.

 

[mdyucca]

Any thoughts on the amperage in the Voswitch on the power for the relay? The Voswitch comes with 30 amp fuses for each switch and recommends downgrading them for low power accessories.

The Voswitch JL 300 is rated for 100 amps total. Each of the six circuits are good for up to 30 amps not to exceed 100 amps total for all six circuits. The Warn Interrupter kit has a fused trigger wire for solenoid activation. The fuse included with the interrupter kit is 5 amp.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The Voswitch JL 300 is rated for 100 amps total. Each of the six circuits are good for up to 30 amps not to exceed 100 amps total for all six circuits. The Warn Interrupter kit has a fused trigger wire for solenoid activation. The fuse included with the interrupter kit is 5 amp.

Yes, and that makes sense since the solenoid coil draws well under 5 amps. It's a lot like the Ford remote starter relay/solenoid.
16 gauge is MORE than enough wire, 18 would handle it.
I have my winch switch on one of the 15 amp aux switches and even that's overkill.
I had wondered about wiring up a couple of small LED lights to light up the winch area - so if I power up the winch with my aux switch, it would also turn on lights up front to light up the winch area. With the solenoid drawing only 2 or 3 amps and the aux switch handling 15, I'd have a few amps to use for lighting.

 

[CFLgladiator]

Yes, and that makes sense since the solenoid coil draws well under 5 amps. It's a lot like the Ford remote starter relay/solenoid.
16 gauge is MORE than enough wire, 18 would handle it.
I have my winch switch on one of the 15 amp aux switches and even that's overkill.
I had wondered about wiring up a couple of small LED lights to light up the winch area - so if I power up the winch with my aux switch, it would also turn on lights up front to light up the winch area. With the solenoid drawing only 2 or 3 amps and the aux switch handling 15, I'd have a few amps to use for lighting.

That's a great idea, just needs the right implementation

 

[rharr]

I used the Warn Power Interrupt Kit with my winch install. Also, I have the Voswitch switch panel. When using the Voswitch with the Warn interrupt kit just leave the switch supplied with the interrupt kit out of the install, your Voswitch will be the control (switch).

Nice setup, running very similar. FYI, not sure if it matters but the SAS-4214 solenoid switch, the instructions that came with Warn packaged SAS-4214 shows the forward post (as you have it mounted) tying into the battery and the rear post going to the winch.

 

[rharr]

Yes, and that makes sense since the solenoid coil draws well under 5 amps. It's a lot like the Ford remote starter relay/solenoid.
16 gauge is MORE than enough wire, 18 would handle it.
I have my winch switch on one of the 15 amp aux switches and even that's overkill.
I had wondered about wiring up a couple of small LED lights to light up the winch area - so if I power up the winch with my aux switch, it would also turn on lights up front to light up the winch area. With the solenoid drawing only 2 or 3 amps and the aux switch handling 15, I'd have a few amps to use for lighting.

The Warn instruction for that solenoid coil calls for a minimum 20ga, so 18 or 16 is plenty good.

 

[rharr]

Keep the wires SHORT as far as the winch feed.
In other words - keep that winch solenoid (interrupter, whatever) close to the main battery. And keep it close to the winch.
The wire length to control the solenoid isn't nearly as important as keeping the high current big wire between battery and solenoid, and between solenoid and winch as short as you can keep them.
This is one reason my solenoid is close to the battery - and between battery and winch. I want the cables as short as possible. Long cables under a heavy load mean voltage loss - and heat.
I may try to find and use a slightly shorter cable between battery and solenoid on mine. I'm using what came with the solenoid kit but may go shorter if possible.

You can use a heavier gauge cable if you need more length. 2/0 or 3/0 covers some good distances and high currents.

 

[tonywin]

Just ordered a Warn winch and will be my first winch. Is an on/off switch necessary? It shouldn't draw any sort of power when not in use, correct?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Just ordered a Warn winch and will be my first winch. Is an on/off switch necessary? It shouldn't draw any sort of power when not in use, correct?

The point isn't draw when not in use. The point is SAFETY.
You don't want full battery power in big cables up ahead of the grill.
Some fool takes one too many drinks from his 6 pack, or has a couple of whack smokes and says hey, I'm fine, blows a light, hits the front of your truck - you have crazy hot power up there.
There are several threads on why to use a disconnect - safety. And there's more than one example here in the forum of a Gladiator driver being hit.
Heck, someone could back into your truck while it's parked and pinch a battery cable and you come out and your truck is on fire.
Necessary? No in the strictest sense........ smart? Heck yes.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

You can use a heavier gauge cable if you need more length. 2/0 or 3/0 covers some good distances and high currents.

I like flexible wires, and see no reason to use a long heavy wire that gets in my way while trying to get my old butchered arthritic fingers to something that a fat cable is obstructing LOL
Yes, the basic rule of wiring - house, car, garage, business, heck, even Jeep - run the right gauge wire for the amperage draw and give a bit of a buffer. Keep voltage drop to 2, maybe 3%.
I keep charts for anything outside of the 10 to 24 gauge range because those are what I've worked with for decades in wiring (house or car) but honestly refer to my charts for bigger loads and wires.

Too many see the cables that come with their winch or switch and think hey, I need a longer cable, I'll get one the same size since that's what they supplied. That's more what my comment was aimed at.

The Warn instruction for that solenoid coil calls for a minimum 20ga, so 18 or 16 is plenty good.

Yes, the wire they supply is 18 tops. I'm only going about 8" or so from solenoid to my terminal block.
I have hundreds of feet of various 16 gauge wires, so that was handy, close at hand.
Plus my open barrel connectors are 16 gauge so that made it easier - my crimper was all set up for that size wire and connector.

I didn't even look a the instructions as I know that FoMoCo solenoids draw about 2.5 amps, maybe a touch more. But I did look at their wire and that's all I needed to know to confirm their solenoid doesn't draw any more than the one on my car.

 

[tonywin]

The point isn't draw when not in use. The point is SAFETY.
You don't want full battery power in big cables up ahead of the grill.
Some fool takes one too many drinks from his 6 pack, or has a couple of whack smokes and says hey, I'm fine, blows a light, hits the front of your truck - you have crazy hot power up there.
There are several threads on why to use a disconnect - safety. And there's more than one example here in the forum of a Gladiator driver being hit.
Heck, someone could back into your truck while it's parked and pinch a battery cable and you come out and your truck is on fire.
Necessary? No in the strictest sense........ smart? Heck yes.

Good to know. I do have a Voswitch but it’s on the passenger side. Will need to figure out where to mount the Warn solenoid.

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