P0192 Code

[Rusty PW]

I have gotten this P0192 code (Fuel rail pressure sensor circuit low input) 4 times since the beginning of the year. When it pops up. There is no change in how the engine runs, until today. I can clear the code with my Banks IDash Gauge. But today, I also had the Service Throttle Body Warning, and the Service Auto Start System. The engine didn't want to rev until I cleared the code. I took the wifey to the airport, left the engine running. Unloaded her suit cases, kissed good back. hoped back into the JT and the CEL was on. Pulled into a parking lot and cleared the code. Headed for my daughter's place. got a few miles from there and the code came back. Cleared it again. Visited with my daughter for about 2 hrs. Headed home. The code never came back. Weather condition, it was raining hard going to the airport. Have a Banks Derringer installed.
Things that I'm wondering about.
1. Is one of my batteries flaking out. Because my ESS hasn't worked for a while. Battery Charging.
2. Do i have the wiring harness rubbing on the exhaust bracket.
3. Is the Banks Derringer causing the issue.
4. Is this a warning sign of the fuel pump going bad.
5. Bad sensor,

• Fuel pump failure
• Faulty fuel pressure sensor
• No or low fuel
• Wires that are broken, shorted, or corroded
• Connectors that are broken, shorted, or corroded
• Clogged fuel filter
• Faulty fuel pump relay

Anyone else getting this code?

Sponsored

 

[Jefe1018]

Haven’t gotten the code, but following.

Did you ever get a “aux switches not available batteries charging” error? That’s what made me take it in and batteries were replaced.

Although it is no substitute for troubleshooting, I can tell you that the I’ve had wonky issues with modern cars of all sorts that led back to the battery, so probably not a bad place to start.

 

[NCJL]

I may have mentioned in another thread.
I had a MAS sensor go out on mine. My fault, I over oiled an air filter. Picking up the new sensor at the dealership. The parts/service manager mentioned that most times a problem with the MAS, is accompanied by fuel rail sensor code. This could be bad sensor or leak in the air intake system.

 

[Rusty PW]

Haven’t gotten the code, but following.

Did you ever get a “aux switches not available batteries charging” error? That’s what made me take it in and batteries were replaced.

Although it is no substitute for troubleshooting, I can tell you that the I’ve had wonky issues with modern cars of all sorts that led back to the battery, so probably not a bad place to start.

I've had the Aux Switch warning twice this past winter.

 

[Rusty PW]

I may have mentioned in another thread.
I had a MAS sensor go out on mine. My fault, I over oiled an air filter. Picking up the new sensor at the dealership. The parts/service manager mentioned that most times a problem with the MAS, a fuel rail sensor code is thrown. This could be bad sensor or leak in the air intake system.

I remember reading your post on that.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I've had the Aux Switch warning twice this past winter.

Low voltage - I believe the threshold is something like 11.8 volts or so.
I'd charge each battery independently, reset the IBS and go from there.
Check voltage of each battery after sitting a while after charging.

You know the drill - Jeep batteries last 1 month to 3 years.

 

[Rusty PW]

Low voltage - I believe the threshold is something like 11.8 volts or so.
I'd charge each battery independently, reset the IBS and go from there.
Check voltage of each battery after sitting a while after charging.

You know the drill - Jeep batteries last 1 month to 3 years.

Thinking on doing the bypass on the aux battery. Just have one to worry about then. LOL

 

[Hootbro]

Thinking on doing the bypass on the aux battery. Just have one to worry about then. LOL

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Yeah, can't hurt anything. Depending on HOW you do it, if you leave the cables in place, you can very quickly put it back for a visit to the dealership for warranty work on electrical stuff if so inclined.
If I ever did it (I'm not so inclined LOL) I'd do the simple version outlined by Jerry so that I could reverse it faster than you could say aux battery bypass just in case.

Side note - for the very first time since about last September (when I drove mine 2400 miles in a week) I saw 13.0 volts on my display yesterday. It's been hanging at 15.0 through the winter, hitting a low of 14.8-14.9 in the spring, never dropping below 14.8 until recently. I've driven it a LOT in the past week or so - a number of trips adding up to 3 or 4 hours driving time. Once it got to the lower 14s, it dropped like a rock to 13.0
I also note that since the WEATHER has warmed into the 60s and especially the 70s that when the ESS kicks the engine off, the voltage stays around 12.5 for about 30 seconds, then drops to 12.4 volts and stays there even as long as 1 minute or longer. My 2020 never did that well.
It seems that the higher voltages this 2022 runs at compared to my 2020 is keeping the battery voltages up higher, and the battery capacity is doing VERY well. Amazing that it's able to hold 12.5, 12.4 volts for multiple minutes while the engine is off.
It also supports my thinking that unless you drive these things a lot, almost every day, and then longer than 30 minutes in a trip, you're going to have problems.

As far as the higher voltage - I was thinking gee, 15.0 volts seems a tad high, until I started monitoring the voltages of my battery charger - the good one - and realized it kicked the voltage up to 15.0 and then some at times.
Did Jeep decide the old system configuration of maximum voltages of 14.8 or less was just not enough?
My take - Jeep has changed things in the last couple of model years.
....... but their batteries still suck.

 

[Rusty PW]

One thing at a time. Today I removed the Banks Derringer. It has a direct effect on fuel pressure. So let's see what happens now. If for some reason that the JT has to go to the dealer. They can't blame the Derringer.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

One thing at a time. Today I removed the Banks Derringer. It has a direct effect on fuel pressure. So let's see what happens now. If for some reason that the JT has to go to the dealer. They can't blame the Derringer.

I know you know - you're a smart feller (as opposed to a fart smeller) - with an iffy fuel pump the last thing you want is to increase pressures.
Yeah, for sure - you don't want anyone in that chain saying hey, you blew it with too much pressure.

 

[@californiajeeping]

One thing at a time. Today I removed the Banks Derringer. It has a direct effect on fuel pressure. So let's see what happens now. If for some reason that the JT has to go to the dealer. They can't blame the Derringer.

The code is due to the derringer adding too much fuel too early on the temprature ramp. It ramps up as the engine temp goes up. At some point the pressure fooling of the ecu trips a code. I sent banks all the information but at 158 degrees it happens.

 

[Rusty PW]

The code is due to the derringer adding too much fuel too early on the temprature ramp. It ramps up as the engine temp goes up. At some point the pressure fooling of the ecu trips a code. I sent banks all the information but at 158 degrees it happens.

You had this code too?

 

[@californiajeeping]

You had this code too?

Yes it’s come up every 7-8k miles. The ecu software has issues with all kinds of codes. There was a tsb to correct these at one point.

 

[Jefe1018]

FWIW, I’d still have your batteries checked before they leave you stranded.

Sponsored