Painting the Rotor Face

[AmishMike]

@Lunentucker thanks for adding that to my search history. Yup, I had no idea what that was.

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[starrskream]

Ive painted many. Never had an issue.
get a big piece of cardboard and cut a hole in the middle. And a slit down one end.
then you can pop the cardboard over the rotor face where the pads touch. Spray what you need .
Also, trash bags work well too.

why paint them though? Today’s parts are so cheap you can’t even turn them. Maybe once if you got a decent one. They’re just such crappy metal you’re likely gonna toss it every two years.

 

[Rusty PW]

That will work. I did anti-seize also then switched to Fluid Film about 10 years ago and never looked back for pretty much the same result. Applying anti-seize and not getting any on me, half my tools and the family dog was a losing proposition.

 

[SargeDiesel]

Brake caliper paint. Spray it into a foam cup and brush it on.

I've always taped n sprayed... why brush on ?

* also, I've never had an issue with heat or paint sticking to the wheel.

 

[SargeDiesel]

Well that's actually worth knowing. Thanks.

Didn't on mine, but I'm probably not the rule... maybe the exception ?

 

[Camaroboi13]

I've always taped n sprayed... why brush on ?

* also, I've never had an issue with heat or paint sticking to the wheel.

Goes on thicker without runs, holds color longer without fading.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Goes on thicker without runs, holds color longer without fading.

Why would brushing be any different on color or fasing?
Why would it necessarily be thicker? You can spray some pretty thick paint layers, and multiple layers.
I guess as much as I do that sort of thing - I see no gain by brushing if you use a quality spray and use it correctly.

The only thing I've ever brushed on is Eastwoods exhaust manifold paint and that stuff will hold up on rusty cast iron exhaust manifolds and headers like nothing I've seen - and last for years.

Ironically, living where the state and county and city all own stock in the brine and salt companies, I've never had a wheel stick. Wonder why? If anything is going to cause corrosion, galvanic action and so on - it's the crap they spread here at a rate of probably 1,000 gallons per bridge.

 

[Camaroboi13]

Why would brushing be any different on color or fasing?
Why would it necessarily be thicker? You can spray some pretty thick paint layers, and multiple layers.

The only thing I've ever brushed on is Eastwoods exhaust manifold paint and that stuff will hold up on rusty cast iron exhaust manifolds and headers like nothing I've seen - and last for years.

Sounds like you answered your own question there ??

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Sounds like you answered your own question there ??

No, not really - that's a brush-on product only for manifolds and my comment on holding up is how it withstands the heat and stress of cast iron.
You've seen how I either SPRAY or power coat brake parts - never any problem.
Brushing on doesn't make the difference - the PRODUCT does.
That's too expensive to use anywhere else due to it having to handle the heat of performance engines.

You've seen the pictures of my stuff in this and other threads - that holds up for years. I could show that SX4 as it sits and the last time I did any painting on those brake parts - they were sprayed, several years ago. The picture showing the caliper - that was done 10 years ago but the picture was only a year or so ago. Almost 10 years on that paint - sprayed, on brake parts.

 

[Camaroboi13]

No, not really - that's a brush-on product only for manifolds and my comment on holding up is how it withstands the heat and stress of cast iron.
You've seen how I either SPRAY or power coat brake parts - never any problem.
Brushing on doesn't make the difference - the PRODUCT does.
That's too expensive to use anywhere else due to it having to handle the heat of performance engines.

You've seen the pictures of my stuff in this and other threads - that holds up for years. I could show that SX4 as it sits and the last time I did any painting on those brake parts - they were sprayed, several years ago. The picture showing the caliper - that was done 10 years ago but the picture was only a year or so ago. Almost 10 years on that paint - sprayed, on brake parts.

I can do the same thing with my parts from 93 years ago also. Personal preference. I don’t have to put multiple layers on via spray it, I don’t have to mask anything off either. Just spray into a Dixie cup, paint it on and walk away. No runs, no drip, no issues. Different strokes for different folks. You keep doing it your way, I’ll keep doing mine.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

93 years ago..........

 

[Lunentucker]

Why would brushing be any different on color or fasing?
Why would it necessarily be thicker? You can spray some pretty thick paint layers, and multiple layers.
I guess as much as I do that sort of thing - I see no gain by brushing if you use a quality spray and use it correctly.

The only thing I've ever brushed on is Eastwoods exhaust manifold paint and that stuff will hold up on rusty cast iron exhaust manifolds and headers like nothing I've seen - and last for years.

Ironically, living where the state and county and city all own stock in the brine and salt companies, I've never had a wheel stick. Wonder why? If anything is going to cause corrosion, galvanic action and so on - it's the crap they spread here at a rate of probably 1,000 gallons per bridge.

When I was searching I found caliper epoxy paints that were "self-leveling" and designed to dry to a near liquid looking finish.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BQC4KS

 

[Lunentucker]

Anyhoo, I sprayed them with a gloss black Rustoleum heat paint.
They'll go back on later toady, after I pickup the new set screws from Oreilly's

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Anyhoo, I sprayed them with a gloss black Rustoleum heat paint.
They'll go back on later toady, after I pickup the new set screws from Oreilly's

 

[chorky]

Anyhoo, I sprayed them with a gloss black Rustoleum heat paint.
They'll go back on later toady, after I pickup the new set screws from Oreilly's

It might be worth considering amsoil HD metal protect. It's clear, with a slight yellow hew, dries like wax. I dont know if it would melt from the heat of breaking or not, but it is soft enough that it would allow the raised portions of the rim to press through and make good even contact with the rotor when lug nuts are tightened. And you could just wire wheel the rust off and have clean metal rather than painting every year. I have gotten plenty of it over sprayed onto my exhaust when doing the frame and under body and it does have a smell for a little bit of course but some of it is still on the exhaust and has not come off. Fluid film is an idea too but that stuff is nasty goopy but it does work good.

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