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gladgup4419

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Everything i did fits behind the original cover. If i took a picture now behind the rear seat it would look completely stock.
Yes the bass is much better now. It makes a big difference from stock.

If you're just looking to get more sound / more bass from the subwoofer then this is the way to go.

Now i've gotten bored since i did this install and i just love wasting money smh so i've recently purchased all new Alpine speakers for the whole truck and a dual 10 inch speaker box for under the rear seat. I also have the Insane Audio head unit. Aside from the head unit i'm keeping everything Alpine even the new amps are Alpine. I haven't had a chance to install any of it yet but in the near future i'll do the install and take pics and make a whole new thread.
because I'm lazy...can you tell us the size of each speaker? I plan on buying new speakers for my "premium" Alpine system also..
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rbryant76

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I know I am going to use adapters to upgrade to 6.5 in the sound bar and kick panels.

It looks like BRP audio makes a nice pre-fab box for 10s that bolt to the floor, but you lose the under seat storage.. not a huge deal breaker if I can find a nice small box to mount inside the bed...
 

mich305

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Thanks a lot Bud, great post, it helped a ton.
Sorry to bug again, how do you remove the plastic cover man? i am cracking my head, and don't want to break it. Thanks again in advance.
 
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JSPEED

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Sorry to bug again, how do you remove the plastic cover man? i am cracking my head, and don't want to break it. Thanks again in advance.
try starting at the bottom and work your way up. the top clips are the ones that break easily.
 
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JSPEED

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because I'm lazy...can you tell us the size of each speaker? I plan on buying new speakers for my "premium" Alpine system also..
Just go to crutchfield that's what i did. they do a nice job of laying everything out for you.
 

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los4825

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Finished the install of the Kicker HS8 Hideaway Sub this weekend and very happy with the outcome. Nice rich bass addition to complement the factory premium sub (so running both subs now).

Ultimately I took the red power wire through the firewall where the rubber boot is located under the passenger dash. Yes it was a pain, but taped the power wire to a huge tie strap and got the wife to push/fish it through on the passenger side while I pulled on the engine side from underneath.Then tapped the remote signal blue turn on wire to the pink/yellow wire located on the drivers side cigarette lighter 12v. Connected the ground wire just underneath the drivers side area below where you pull the front drivers door power cable when removing the doors. You need to pull the trim back to do this but ended up being a good location.

Lastly, ended up attaching the speaker signal wires to the soundbar (wiring diagram below) per the advice of another member on the JL forum. I went through the B-pillar passenger side about 1 foot up from the floor on the pillar for the connection points. You have to remove the lower B-pillar trim to get to the wires. Use the Green and Gray wrapped wires. They are the only wrapped wires in that harness. I was careful but somehow reversed my polarity because there was nothing much coming from the sub on the first try at center. The sub sounded off all the way left back or all the way right back when adjusting the sound location from the head unit, but no real output at center. So I swapped channel speaker wire on one side (pick left or right, but not both) per the troubleshooting guide and that fixed the polarity and the sub sounded as expected. Adjusted the control knobs on the sub from there to dial it in and find the sweet spot. Attached the bass control knob under the steering wheel on the right side.

I located the actual sub box at almost perfect fit behind the rear drivers side compartment storage location, behind the seat. So truly a hideaway and can be secured when locking the seat with the ignition key. Sounds good back there too, even behind the seat in the up/normal sitting position.

Overall, very happy with the additional sub to balance out the much needed base response. My only complaint is kicker should provide enough wire length for the black ground, blue remote and speaker signal wires. For a sub in this price range, I don’t think $5 more in wire length to make all the connections is too much to ask as a customer. All those extra connections to add wire length wouldn’t be required if they just would give the customer enough to do the job and instead of stating everything is in the kit, except enough wire to do the job. Ok, rant over! :swear:

All in all, very please with this add-on and upgrade in base. I’ve now changed 6 of the 9 OEM Premium speakers and added a 10th speaker with the new sub.

Spker wiring diagram used below and thanks to the forum members for all the great advice on this project.

A1563335-42DB-454E-9EE7-BC024BC97BD2.png


9124FC76-7E85-4092-AE4F-611588FF557E.png


28FC1DEA-D4F1-42DC-B732-FC2B6D52E0C3.png


BFF87913-DDC3-40F6-AC51-1954286F79B4.png

Bass control knob location
4BAD0366-233B-4794-AEB7-BBD55C728DD5.jpeg

Passenger side under glove box (Inside)
7B07B154-49D8-4F2C-9712-98D8921E737A.jpeg

Engine side below fuse box. Go from underneath the wheel.
C083E99B-ED1C-43C0-A5BA-F9E58432B361.jpeg

Sub pushes all the way down in the storage tray behind the rear driver seat storage location.
00B8BA8D-BB98-4CAC-8E83-6B0A0DF48AF8.jpeg
did you have to install a LOC as stated in the instructions?
 

RSK

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did you have to install a LOC as stated in the instructions?
No LOC and not using an aftermarket amp. I just hardwired what came with the kit. Although you may need extra wire to make some connections like ground or the blue wire to the ignition on/off tie in. I’m really glad I did this upgrade. I just put my doors and top back on a couple weeks ago after being off all summer and the sub is obviously even more powerful sounding. I had to adjust the base down after closing up the cabin and sounds great IMO.
 

los4825

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No LOC and not using an aftermarket amp. I just hardwired what came with the kit. Although you may need extra wire to make some connections like ground or the blue wire to the ignition on/off tie in. I’m really glad I did this upgrade. I just put my doors and top back on a couple weeks ago after being off all summer and the sub is obviously even more powerful sounding. I had to adjust the base down after closing up the cabin and sounds great IMO.
thanks for the help...just installed last night and sub sounds great!
 

Wzabrouski

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Where did you tap into the speaker wires? Have any photos by chance?? Thanks

Finished the install of the Kicker HS8 Hideaway Sub this weekend and very happy with the outcome. Nice rich bass addition to complement the factory premium sub (so running both subs now).

Ultimately I took the red power wire through the firewall where the rubber boot is located under the passenger dash. Yes it was a pain, but taped the power wire to a huge tie strap and got the wife to push/fish it through on the passenger side while I pulled on the engine side from underneath.Then tapped the remote signal blue turn on wire to the pink/yellow wire located on the drivers side cigarette lighter 12v. Connected the ground wire just underneath the drivers side area below where you pull the front drivers door power cable when removing the doors. You need to pull the trim back to do this but ended up being a good location.

Lastly, ended up attaching the speaker signal wires to the soundbar (wiring diagram below) per the advice of another member on the JL forum. I went through the B-pillar passenger side about 1 foot up from the floor on the pillar for the connection points. You have to remove the lower B-pillar trim to get to the wires. Use the Green and Gray wrapped wires. They are the only wrapped wires in that harness. I was careful but somehow reversed my polarity because there was nothing much coming from the sub on the first try at center. The sub sounded off all the way left back or all the way right back when adjusting the sound location from the head unit, but no real output at center. So I swapped channel speaker wire on one side (pick left or right, but not both) per the troubleshooting guide and that fixed the polarity and the sub sounded as expected. Adjusted the control knobs on the sub from there to dial it in and find the sweet spot. Attached the bass control knob under the steering wheel on the right side.

I located the actual sub box at almost perfect fit behind the rear drivers side compartment storage location, behind the seat. So truly a hideaway and can be secured when locking the seat with the ignition key. Sounds good back there too, even behind the seat in the up/normal sitting position.

Overall, very happy with the additional sub to balance out the much needed base response. My only complaint is kicker should provide enough wire length for the black ground, blue remote and speaker signal wires. For a sub in this price range, I don’t think $5 more in wire length to make all the connections is too much to ask as a customer. All those extra connections to add wire length wouldn’t be required if they just would give the customer enough to do the job and instead of stating everything is in the kit, except enough wire to do the job. Ok, rant over! :swear:

All in all, very please with this add-on and upgrade in base. I’ve now changed 6 of the 9 OEM Premium speakers and added a 10th speaker with the new sub.

Spker wiring diagram used below and thanks to the forum members for all the great advice on this project.

A1563335-42DB-454E-9EE7-BC024BC97BD2.png


9124FC76-7E85-4092-AE4F-611588FF557E.png


28FC1DEA-D4F1-42DC-B732-FC2B6D52E0C3.png


BFF87913-DDC3-40F6-AC51-1954286F79B4.png

Bass control knob location
4BAD0366-233B-4794-AEB7-BBD55C728DD5.jpeg

Passenger side under glove box (Inside)
7B07B154-49D8-4F2C-9712-98D8921E737A.jpeg

Engine side below fuse box. Go from underneath the wheel.
C083E99B-ED1C-43C0-A5BA-F9E58432B361.jpeg

Sub pushes all the way down in the storage tray behind the rear driver seat storage location.
00B8BA8D-BB98-4CAC-8E83-6B0A0DF48AF8.jpeg
 

RSK

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Where did you tap into the speaker wires? Have any photos by chance?? Thanks
In the passenger side b-pillar post behind the front seat at the bottom is the best place I found to access speaker wire signal from the advice of another forum member (attached below). You have to pull the trim off. And look for the wires in the attached diagram. The speakers wire harness is in there for both sides R & L. Only the wires you want are twisted, so easy to identify visually which ones. Best access is about 8-12 inches up from the floor. I’ll look for pictures, but don’t think I took any for that part. Once wired if you have no sub sound in the center but do have base full left or full right, then your polarity is reversed. Just swap one or both of the wires + / - to correct. Then the sound should be centered. It will make sense when you get in there. Harness and wires are tight in the pillar, but accessible with a little patience while spicing.

Note: No LOC was needed in this setup.

Jeep Gladiator Premium subwoofer upgrade. 1606908370611


Jeep Gladiator Premium subwoofer upgrade. 054D3302-157A-4663-8897-8165D97D5B6B


Jeep Gladiator Premium subwoofer upgrade. 2A373557-A8C7-41FB-BE57-99C4FDEF125D
 
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BuddT

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How did you get the back interior panels out. I am scared I'll break it if I pull on it any more.
 

RSK

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How did you get the back interior panels out. I am scared I'll break it if I pull on it any more.
If asking me, I didn’t go through panel behind the rear seats where the OEM sub is located. I went through the b-pillar between the front/rear seat, the one on the right next to the passenger front seat back. If that’s where you are trying to access, use a trim pry tool at the bottom of the b-pillar where your rear door wiring harness plugs in. Just pop out the push pins to get behind there and work your way up about 2 feet. You will see the wiring harness opening with several wires together, but only want the twisted colored speaker wires to tap into. Just be careful and find the right places to apply pressure to pop out the trim tabs.
 

rbryant76

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For those that upgraded the entire system, (with factory amp), I am running into an issue with the APH CH01 hardness add on. Has anyone actually used this? We are having some issues trying to trace wires using the old school way of a 9v battery and the pop sound method. We want to use the factory wiring, and I know I can use this harness to tap into the wiring off of the stock amp. The only one we can use is the wide white harness, Has anyone here actually used this add on harness?
 

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haven’t started my install but I did purchase the harness so I’m curious about this as well.
For those that upgraded the entire system, (with factory amp), I am running into an issue with the APH CH01 hardness add on. Has anyone actually used this? We are having some issues trying to trace wires using the old school way of a 9v battery and the pop sound method. We want to use the factory wiring, and I know I can use this harness to tap into the wiring off of the stock amp. The only one we can use is the wide white harness, Has anyone here actually used this add on harness?
 

rbryant76

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Turns out the harness APH-Ch03 is made for the gladiator. Not the 01. If you look at the included harnesses it matches the 3 on the premium
Alpine amp. On its way from crutchfield.
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