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Finished the install of the Kicker HS8 Hideaway Sub this weekend and very happy with the outcome. Nice rich bass addition to complement the factory premium sub (so running both subs now).

Ultimately I took the red power wire through the firewall where the rubber boot is located under the passenger dash. Yes it was a pain, but taped the power wire to a huge tie strap and got the wife to push/fish it through on the passenger side while I pulled on the engine side from underneath.Then tapped the remote signal blue turn on wire to the pink/yellow wire located on the drivers side cigarette lighter 12v. Connected the ground wire just underneath the drivers side area below where you pull the front drivers door power cable when removing the doors. You need to pull the trim back to do this but ended up being a good location.

Lastly, ended up attaching the speaker signal wires to the soundbar (wiring diagram below) per the advice of another member on the JL forum. I went through the B-pillar passenger side about 1 foot up from the floor on the pillar for the connection points. You have to remove the lower B-pillar trim to get to the wires. Use the Green and Gray wrapped wires. They are the only wrapped wires in that harness. I was careful but somehow reversed my polarity because there was nothing much coming from the sub on the first try at center. The sub sounded off all the way left back or all the way right back when adjusting the sound location from the head unit, but no real output at center. So I swapped channel speaker wire on one side (pick left or right, but not both) per the troubleshooting guide and that fixed the polarity and the sub sounded as expected. Adjusted the control knobs on the sub from there to dial it in and find the sweet spot. Attached the bass control knob under the steering wheel on the right side.

I located the actual sub box at almost perfect fit behind the rear drivers side compartment storage location, behind the seat. So truly a hideaway and can be secured when locking the seat with the ignition key. Sounds good back there too, even behind the seat in the up/normal sitting position.

Overall, very happy with the additional sub to balance out the much needed base response. My only complaint is kicker should provide enough wire length for the black ground, blue remote and speaker signal wires. For a sub in this price range, I don’t think $5 more in wire length to make all the connections is too much to ask as a customer. All those extra connections to add wire length wouldn’t be required if they just would give the customer enough to do the job and instead of stating everything is in the kit, except enough wire to do the job. Ok, rant over! :swear:

All in all, very please with this add-on and upgrade in base. I’ve now changed 6 of the 9 OEM Premium speakers and added a 10th speaker with the new sub.

Spker wiring diagram used below and thanks to the forum members for all the great advice on this project.

Jeep Gladiator Premium subwoofer upgrade. A1563335-42DB-454E-9EE7-BC024BC97BD2


Jeep Gladiator Premium subwoofer upgrade. 9124FC76-7E85-4092-AE4F-611588FF557E


Jeep Gladiator Premium subwoofer upgrade. 28FC1DEA-D4F1-42DC-B732-FC2B6D52E0C3


Jeep Gladiator Premium subwoofer upgrade. BFF87913-DDC3-40F6-AC51-1954286F79B4

Bass control knob location
Jeep Gladiator Premium subwoofer upgrade. 4BAD0366-233B-4794-AEB7-BBD55C728DD5

Passenger side under glove box (Inside)
Jeep Gladiator Premium subwoofer upgrade. 7B07B154-49D8-4F2C-9712-98D8921E737A

Engine side below fuse box. Go from underneath the wheel.
Jeep Gladiator Premium subwoofer upgrade. C083E99B-ED1C-43C0-A5BA-F9E58432B361

Sub pushes all the way down in the storage tray behind the rear driver seat storage location.
Jeep Gladiator Premium subwoofer upgrade. 00B8BA8D-BB98-4CAC-8E83-6B0A0DF48AF8
 
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gladgup4419

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I also have the Factory Alpine system and it just doesn't sound good. I have the bass cranked and it's very anemic sounding. Can anyone confirm it's even Alpine since there are no visible badges?
 

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I disconnected the factory subwoofer and turned the radio on. The radio worked fine so we plugged the subwoofer back in and it started working. I don't feel removing the factory sub will affect anything so i removed it. Got the Kicker HS10 mounted with some left over brackets i had laying around in the shop. Now i'm just deciding where i want to run the power wire. I'm probably going to remove the passenger seat and interior panels and run it along the passenger side where i can exit underneath the floor mat with the wires from my electric steps.

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Hey bud, do you have a pic of the finished project with the woofer? dis you re-use the plastic cover, or left that open? and how is the sound? is it enough for the JT? Thanks in advance
 
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Hey bud, do you have a pic of the finished project with the woofer? dis you re-use the plastic cover, or left that open? and how is the sound? is it enough for the JT? Thanks in advance
Everything i did fits behind the original cover. If i took a picture now behind the rear seat it would look completely stock.
Yes the bass is much better now. It makes a big difference from stock.

If you're just looking to get more sound / more bass from the subwoofer then this is the way to go.

Now i've gotten bored since i did this install and i just love wasting money smh so i've recently purchased all new Alpine speakers for the whole truck and a dual 10 inch speaker box for under the rear seat. I also have the Insane Audio head unit. Aside from the head unit i'm keeping everything Alpine even the new amps are Alpine. I haven't had a chance to install any of it yet but in the near future i'll do the install and take pics and make a whole new thread.
 

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Everything i did fits behind the original cover. If i took a picture now behind the rear seat it would look completely stock.
Yes the bass is much better now. It makes a big difference from stock.

If you're just looking to get more sound / more bass from the subwoofer then this is the way to go.

Now i've gotten bored since i did this install and i just love wasting money smh so i've recently purchased all new Alpine speakers for the whole truck and a dual 10 inch speaker box for under the rear seat. I also have the Insane Audio head unit. Aside from the head unit i'm keeping everything Alpine even the new amps are Alpine. I haven't had a chance to install any of it yet but in the near future i'll do the install and take pics and make a whole new thread.
Thanks a lot, I went all alpine for speakers and amp, but I am absolutely trying to not sacrifice the little storage we have under the rear seat... the money spending comes with owning one of these monsters lol. So the Hs10 fits underneath the plastic cover
 
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Thanks a lot, I went all alpine for speakers and amp, but I am absolutely trying to not sacrifice the little storage we have under the rear seat... the money spending comes with owning one of these monsters lol. So the Hs10 fits underneath the plastic cover
yes it will as long as you remove the factory sub and just use the HS10
 

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I have the premium audio, but I legit want to replace and amp all speakers and and add a larger amped sub. Just does not get loud enough with the top down and I just love deeper fuller bass..no matter the music.
 

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Ok so I am a bit confused here.

I can buy one of the Ap4-CH41 https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-ch41-r2 to keep all factory chimes, etc and of course add a subwoofer and be able to amp all stock speaker locations.

They mention an optional harness (APH-CH01) https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amplifier-integration-harness/aph-ch01. Are both needed?

I am trying to determine the easiest way so I dont have to run all new wires to the speakers, and use the factory wiring
 

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Ok so I am a bit confused here.

I can buy one of the Ap4-CH41 https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-ch41-r2 to keep all factory chimes, etc and of course add a subwoofer and be able to amp all stock speaker locations.

They mention an optional harness (APH-CH01) https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amplifier-integration-harness/aph-ch01. Are both needed?

I am trying to determine the easiest way so I dont have to run all new wires to the speakers, and use the factory wiring
You'll need the optional harness if you want to use the OEM wiring for the speakers. You'll still need to run speaker wires from the amp to that optional harness.
 

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Ok so I am a bit confused here.

I can buy one of the Ap4-CH41 https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-ch41-r2 to keep all factory chimes, etc and of course add a subwoofer and be able to amp all stock speaker locations.

They mention an optional harness (APH-CH01) https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amplifier-integration-harness/aph-ch01. Are both needed?

I am trying to determine the easiest way so I dont have to run all new wires to the speakers, and use the factory wiring
I purchased the AP4-CH41 and the APH-CH01, and added the https://ds18.com/products/jeep-jl-loaded-soundbar-combo

I still have the APH-CH01 that went unused, and even after I get around to installing the Kicker HS10 I don't think I will use the CH01 for my premium system.
 

rbryant76

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Why didnt you use the harness? Did you not need to get aftermarket amps to the front speakers? (since you did the new soundbar/using soundbar speakers only)?
 

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Why didnt you use the harness? Did you not need to get aftermarket amps to the front speakers? (since you did the new soundbar/using sounder speakers only)?
The oem harness to the PAC harness and used the RCA wires from the PAC device to the AMP. At the amp, I connected my speaker wires from the soundbar.

EDIT: Oh and with this soundbar and the HS10, the front speakers are fine as they are... LOL
 

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I have the premium audio, but I legit want to replace and amp all speakers and and add a larger amped sub. Just does not get loud enough with the top down and I just love deeper fuller bass..no matter the music.
I'm 100% with you on this...
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