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RAKE: did some searching but questions

21_GLADIATOR

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Hi guys. Looks like a great forum! LOVE the truck. ? My diesel '21 has a rake of 2" measured at the front (lower) than back. .. measured at the fender lip. I want to level it with back.
1. IF I get a 2" spacer, is there anything else that will be affected?? Like alignment, steering issues anything? All stock,,
2. Also, they put in speed HUMPS in my neighborhood.. why do I have to slow down to TEN mph to go over them or its like the truck bottoms out and seems to hit the bump stop with the abrupt incline of the (stupid) humps? My wifes cherokee doesnt do that.. she can go over them at 20...

p.s. , how hard is it to install the spacer.. do we need a mechanic? Or can we do it with some tolls?,,, I will search on that too.. Thanks everyone - Dave
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bleda2002

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Hi guys. Looks like a great forum! LOVE the truck. ? My diesel '21 has a rake of 2" measured at the front (lower) than back. .. measured at the fender lip. I want to level it with back.
1. IF I get a 2" spacer, is there anything else that will be affected?? Like alignment, steering issues anything? All stock,,
2. Also, they put in speed HUMPS in my neighborhood.. why do I have to slow down to TEN mph to go over them or its like the truck bottoms out and seems to hit the bump stop with the abrupt incline of the (stupid) humps? My wifes cherokee doesnt do that.. she can go over them at 20...

p.s. , how hard is it to install the spacer.. do we need a mechanic? Or can we do it with some tolls?,,, I will search on that too.. Thanks everyone - Dave

For number 2, its because the diesel carries so much weight upfront and is under sprung and dampened that you are hitting the bump stops.
 

JeepTaco

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Hi guys. Looks like a great forum! LOVE the truck. ? My diesel '21 has a rake of 2" measured at the front (lower) than back. .. measured at the fender lip. I want to level it with back.
1. IF I get a 2" spacer, is there anything else that will be affected?? Like alignment, steering issues anything? All stock,,
2. Also, they put in speed HUMPS in my neighborhood.. why do I have to slow down to TEN mph to go over them or its like the truck bottoms out and seems to hit the bump stop with the abrupt incline of the (stupid) humps? My wifes cherokee doesnt do that.. she can go over them at 20...

p.s. , how hard is it to install the spacer.. do we need a mechanic? Or can we do it with some tolls?,,, I will search on that too.. Thanks everyone - Dave
Depending on what spacer kit you get, you'll likely need a track bar to center the front axle. When I did my spacer lift, my axle shifted to the driver side about 3/4 to 1 inch.

Geometry correction brackets may also be needed to increase caster

You'll need to adjust toe and center the steering wheel or have it aligned at a shop. Camber is not adjustable.
 

Camaroboi13

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Jeep Gladiator RAKE: did some searching but questions BB59FFB6-2518-41FC-A3DB-90A39EAC5AF4

edodiesel with a 2” spacer. No alignment, no geometry correction brackets, no toe adjustments, no track bar, no axle shifting. I was able to fit 37s on it shortly after leveling. You’ll still hit the bump stops most likely, those shocks and springs are just too soft for the weight of the front end. Adjusting the steering wheel takes almost 3 minutes.
 

JeepTaco

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Didn't comment on the difficulty.... its not difficult to do a spacer lift, its time consuming.

Torquing the control arm bolts with the truck on its own weight was the most difficult part because of the limited space. It would go much quicker with a lift. Took my about 8 hours to do it on my driveway with a jack and 1 pair of jackstands.

SOME of the tools needed depending on what kit you get.
  • 22mm socket.
  • 21mm socket and combo wrench.
  • 15/16 socket and combo wrench.
  • 10mm socket
  • 15 mm socket
  • 18mm socket and combo wrench
  • 1/2" impact (helps a ton).
  • 24 inch 1/2" breaker bar or 24 inch 1/2" ratchet.
  • 3/8" drive ratchet.
  • Pry bar.
  • 5mm allen socket or wrench.
  • Drill set (for shock extensions)
  • Torque wrench (up to 250 ft lbs)
  • Tire chocks (if doing the rear)
    • I used 4x4 scrap pieces
I'm sure im missing something but gives you a general idea of some items you'll need.

Good luck, cheers!
 

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I am new to Jeeps also.. The first thing I did when I got mine was level it. I bought the 1.5" Teraflex level kit. It was easy to instal and also came with bump stops. I wouldn't say you need a track bar with that amount of lift. But possibly shocks. I bought cheap rough country shocks for $100 pair, 30" long.
This was my quick fix for a couple of months until I acquire all the parts to lift the truck properly.
Just ny 2 cents, but I would get the Teraflex 1.5" level kit and some longer shocks. The steering wheel might be a hair crooked after, but that is an easy adjustment and there are youtube videos that show how to do it..
 

jav_eee

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Didn't comment on the difficulty.... its not difficult to do a spacer lift, its time consuming.

Torquing the control arm bolts with the truck on its own weight was the most difficult part because of the limited space. It would go much quicker with a lift. Took my about 8 hours to do it on my driveway with a jack and 1 pair of jackstands.

SOME of the tools needed depending on what kit you get.
  • 22mm socket.
  • 21mm socket and combo wrench.
  • 15/16 socket and combo wrench.
  • 10mm socket
  • 15 mm socket
  • 18mm socket and combo wrench
  • 1/2" impact (helps a ton).
  • 24 inch 1/2" breaker bar or 24 inch 1/2" ratchet.
  • 3/8" drive ratchet.
  • Pry bar.
  • 5mm allen socket or wrench.
  • Drill set (for shock extensions)
  • Torque wrench (up to 250 ft lbs)
  • Tire chocks (if doing the rear)
    • I used 4x4 scrap pieces
I'm sure im missing something but gives you a general idea of some items you'll need.

Good luck, cheers!
8 hours?? YIKES. I put mine on in about an hour taking my time. You don’t need to take everything apart to do it. On the passenger side you unbolt the brake line from the LCA, lower shock mount, sway bar end link, and track bar. On the drivers side it’s all of those minus the track bar. Leave the tire on the opposite side and just lower the one you’re working in. Jack stands under the frame, floor jack to manipulate the axle.

you should still loosen and retorque the control arms.

this guys video shows a good example of what I’m talking about
 

Oilburner

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Might want to look into better bump stops also-
 

ATL_Rubi

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My only advice is if you think you’ll need a track bar (you’ll need it) get one. I did a 1.5 teraflex level and my axle shifted 3/4” to the driver side. Very small, but noticeable at the right angles. All in all, having only done a lift install once (back in 2013) this took me 3.5 hours with a horrible jack/floor jack setup.
 

ShadowsPapa

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. measured at the fender lip. I want to level it with back.
Measure frame to ground, or the pinch weld area of the cab. Fenders aren't a great place to measure because different JTs have different fenders. For example, if I determined vehicle height by the fenders I'd say my wife's JLU sits higher than my JT - but if you measure from ground to the headlights, they are exactly the same height in the front.
There are better spots to use to measure from the ground than the fender flares themselves due to that.

8 hours?? YIKES. I put mine on in about an hour taking my time.
An hour??
No way, and I've done it 4 times now.
Istalled Rubicon springs and shocks up front and longer LCAs, then removed it all to trade my 2020 in, then installed the LCAs and Synergy springs under the front of my 2022, decided it wasn't high enough and put longer Synergy springs under the 2022.
You can't loosen both ends of the track bar, both ends of the left lower control arm, both endsw of the right lower control arm, both ends of the left upper control arm, both ends of the right upper control arm, swap parts, and then torque everything - both ends of both upper control arms, both ends of both lower control arms and both ends of the track bar and the sway bar links in that time.
You left out doing the left end of the track bar which must be loosened and re-torqued as well)
All bolts that go through a bushing must be loosened and re-torqued when done with the truck sitting with feet planted squarely and jounced a few times to even things out - then torque both ends of track bar and all control arms. (and the shocks you took loose.

You are simply slipping in spacers and doing nothing else, but still to get over 200 lb/ft on those LCAs - in an hour? (that's what the torque plus angle adds up to, not a measly 190)
I couldn't get my springs down far enough to do that without pulling the springs out and slipping them back in and that requires taking a wheel off. So there you have that, too.
 

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jav_eee

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You can't loosen both ends of the track bar, both ends of the left lower control arm, both endsw of the right lower control arm, both ends of the left upper control arm, both ends of the right upper control arm, swap parts, and then torque everything - both ends of both upper control arms, both ends of both lower control arms and both ends of the track bar and the sway bar links in that time.
You left out doing the left end of the track bar which must be loosened and re-torqued as well)


You are simply slipping in spacers and doing nothing else, but still to get over 200 lb/ft on those LCAs - in an hour? (that's what the torque plus angle adds up to, not a measly 190)
I couldn't get my springs down far enough to do that without pulling the springs out and slipping them back in and that requires taking a wheel off. So there you have that, too.
yeah one hour to drop the axle on one side at a time low enough to slip the spring out and reinstall with the spacers. Some of us work smarter not harder haha You don't need to loosen the drivers side trackbar bolt if you left the passengers side disconnected. (as seen in the video I linked) You also don't need to loosen the control arm bolts to install the spacer lift. You SHOULD loosen and retorque them after the install, as I stated in my previous reply. That's not included in the one hour quote, those LCA bolts are no joke if you don't have a lift.
 
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21_GLADIATOR

21_GLADIATOR

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Wow, thanks for the replies everyone. I will be absorbing this and deciding what to do. I may go with heavier duty shocks bc of the bottoming out.. I have to hit 6 of these dumb speed humps every day now..

In the short term, it seems that bc its a diesel, the 2" lift is probably the same as a gaser @ 1.5" which is why Camaroboi13 was able to get away with no new shocks or other components. I imagine that would be the same for me with a diesel. I hv sport willys. Although the 'zone' kit adds sway bar endlinks.. not sure why..

Thanks for the vid and tips.
Camaroboi13 truck looks awesome!
 
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JeepTaco

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8 hours?? YIKES. I put mine on in about an hour taking my time. You don’t need to take everything apart to do it. On the passenger side you unbolt the brake line from the LCA, lower shock mount, sway bar end link, and track bar. On the drivers side it’s all of those minus the track bar. Leave the tire on the opposite side and just lower the one you’re working in. Jack stands under the frame, floor jack to manipulate the axle.

you should still loosen and retorque the control arms.

this guys video shows a good example of what I’m talking about
Dang. I don't know how you did it in an hour. Like ShadowsPapa mentioned about torquing all control arm hardware, it took some time.
Also installed geometry correction brackets, centered the steering wheel, drilled out holes for bump stops and shock extensions for the rear, and added wheel spacers. It was easy to take up 8 hours.

I usually check all items i touched to make sure i didnt miss anything.
 

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21_GLADIATOR

21_GLADIATOR

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Also, why would i need to pay for new bumpstops if the spring travel is the same (referencing terraflex in video) and oilburner what do you mean by “ better”. Smaller? So the dont hit as easily?thanks
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