Replace oil plug without losing oil. WHAT SORCERY IS THIS?!?

[CrazyCooter]

I do this when replacing a power steering hose using a vacuum bleeder so that it doesn't make a mess in/on the frame. Little pro tip

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[BourbonRunner]

Top down oil pump…….. umm…….heavy stuff like metal sinks to the bottom. Kind of defeats the purpose.
I get it for inboard engines where you don’t have much of a choice. But what’s the point, just change filters and top off the oil , would be about the same thing.

To be fair, I should probably have explained it better. You're right about pulling the plug and flushing it all out, but sometimes that's just not doable in the winter and wanting to avoid laying on the cold ground. Or if its wet out. No garage here.

That being said, I am super particular about the oil services on my daily driven 2004 BMW 330CI with the M54B30 motor and only slightly less on her 2013 Subaru XV with the FB20 motor.

Ready for the full breakdown?

As follows:

Every 5 changes I do a Liquimoly Engine Flush. On that one I dump from the plug. I'm changing about every 5000-5500 miles give or take, even though the interval from the factory is around 12-15K miles if you follow the oil quality sensor. I add a bottle of Liquimoly Ceratec on this change as well. (25K mile interval, too)

But in between those I'm using the top down changer.

The changer's line gets all the way to the bottom of the pan via the dipstick. Once I've pulled a small amount, I pour that as a sample to send to Blackstone, then finish the removal. Idea being its getting it from the bottom so it will pick up metal shavings if present as well.

I throw a half a quart behind it and suck that out as well to make sure anything else is getting flushed through. I also use it to get all the crevices in the BMW oil filter housing cleared out, too. These motors have very high pressure oil pumps and high flow cartridge filters instead of your typical spin ons. It also gives me a good time to take a look at the housing and make sure the gasket isn't leaking... again.

On the refill I'm using Liquimoly 5w30/5w40 Special Tec and a bottle of their MoS2 friction treatment.

I average about 16-18k miles per year so at least 3-4 changes annually. If it gets track time, it immediately gets a change afterwards with a fresh bottle of MoS2 while I'm flushing the brake system.

My Blackstone reports are solid, with minimal degradation of the oil chemically and well below the threshold on what they consider to be of concern. Particulates are minimal if any.

That preventive maintenance the key to keeping a high mile, older BMW running. My e34 went to 243K miles before I sold it and that was the same exact interval/plan. Plus, the more frequent intervals reduce the possible issues with the VANOS system. If you've ever had to deal with VANOS solenoids, they're easy to replace, once you've taken the whole top end of the motor off. No thanks.

On her car I follow a similar pattern but with Castrol high mileage 0w20 since the thing consumes a half quart every 1500 miles and I can buy that at any parts store in the nation. Tis the curse of a high mileage (190K) Subie.

 

[Randonexplosion]

Servicing the lower unit on an outboard is the same principal. Fill with a pump from the bottom plug until it comes out the top, then insert the top plug so that very little oil comes out of the bottom plug by the time you unthread the pump and install the lower plug. Sorcery? Probably not...

 

[BourbonRunner]

Servicing the lower unit on an outboard is the same principal. Fill with a pump from the bottom plug until it comes out the top, then insert the top plug so that very little oil comes out of the bottom plug by the time you unthread the pump and install the lower plug. Sorcery? Probably not...

Only motorized vessel I've ever owned was a SeaDoo GTI so I'll take your word for it.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Servicing the lower unit on an outboard is the same principal. Fill with a pump from the bottom plug until it comes out the top, then insert the top plug so that very little oil comes out of the bottom plug by the time you unthread the pump and install the lower plug. Sorcery? Probably not...

I’ve changed oil on hundreds of IO and outboard gear cases. It’s exactly like a differential oil change, as it just needs to be above a certain level and is just bathing the gears in passive gear oil. But you always drain the oil through the bottom of two holes to reasonably ensure that any metal or contaminants are drained out. The full process is then from the bottom, using the top plug to create the vacuum to prevent the oil from draining out. With an engine though, a topside pump will never get all metal shavings or contaminants. Even with a dipstick pump, you’re only getting most of it out. I get that lots of European car servicers do it, but I’m always going to drain mine from the pan. I did replace my plug with a valve to eliminate any risk of plug damage. I also change mine on a snowy driveway in the winter. A bit cold on the back for sure.

 

[dcmdon]

How about you just unscrew the old bolt and pull it out then put the new one. My guess is you would lose only a fraction of a quart.

I actually did this once when I realized I forgot to put the drain plug gasket back on.

So I unscrewed the plug, put my thumb over the hole, put the gasket back on the bolt, and slipped it in. Once its a half turn in the leak is reduced to a drip. No big deal. If you don't want to get your hands dirty, wear nitrile gloves.

 

[AmishMike]

@BourbonRunner to be honest, I didn’t read your whole post as to how you pamper your vehicles. I stopped after you said that you didn’t have a garage. No excuse, if it’s worth doing do it right. I grew up with a dirt driveway, not even stone. I can remember doing a tranny in my El Camino in the snow and brushing 2 inches of snow off my coveralls when it was done. When I got a bit older I bought a tarp to work under in the rain. Did an engine swap in the ‘56 under the tarp.
Yes, I do lazy crap too.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

So you put a shop vac on the oil fill - and draw a hell of a vacuum and draw dust into the seal lips.
If you have enough pull to keep the weight of oil from getting out that hole - and there's some weight pressing down from the depth of the oil above the hole, you are pulling air in elsewhere. Sorry, not my truck.
It's so bloody simple to have your ducks in a row, new plug or gasket ready, and cover that hole with a thumb.

BTW - when I farmed, I had no concrete at all to work on. The machine shed was dirt floor, the driveway was gravel., the garage floor was dirt. You do what you need to do where and when you can, even when the daytime highs for a week are minus 20.
When I had my sale, people knew how I had taken care of my equipment and the tractors brought good money.

 

[BourbonRunner]

@BourbonRunner to be honest, I didn’t read your whole post as to how you pamper your vehicles. I stopped after you said that you didn’t have a garage. No excuse, if it’s worth doing do it right. I grew up with a dirt driveway, not even stone. I can remember doing a tranny in my El Camino in the snow and brushing 2 inches of snow off my coveralls when it was done. When I got a bit older I bought a tarp to work under in the rain. Did an engine swap in the ‘56 under the tarp.
Yes, I do lazy crap too.

I do all my work myself. No driveway, no garage, in the street and for years.

Done plenty of repairs on machinery and vehicles in the field in all weather conditions, too.

If top down oil changes make me a wuss in the winter because I don’t *choose* to get on the ground, well, fine. I’ll start squatting while I pee.

 

[Rusty PW]

Hell,
Just turn the truck upside down…

Kevin

Do that and see how much spare change falls out.

 

[Rusty PW]

Make a fist. Then shake that fist at the you tube shop vac guy.

Rock, Paper, Scissors

 

[Rusty PW]

So you put a shop vac on the oil fill - and draw a hell of a vacuum and draw dust into the seal lips.
If you have enough pull to keep the weight of oil from getting out that hole - and there's some weight pressing down from the depth of the oil above the hole, you are pulling air in elsewhere. Sorry, not my truck.
It's so bloody simple to have your ducks in a row, new plug or gasket ready, and cover that hole with a thumb.

BTW - when I farmed, I had no concrete at all to work on. The machine shed was dirt floor, the driveway was gravel., the garage floor was dirt. You do what you need to do where and when you can, even when the daytime highs for a week are minus 20.
When I had my sale, people knew how I had taken care of my equipment and the tractors brought good money.

Know that pain from working in below zero weather. Rebuilt a steam turbine at an oil refinery in Bradford Pa. in Feb. Was there for 3 weeks working outside for 12 hrs a day. Every morning. Knocked the snow off the equipment and tools before we could start.

 

[dcmdon]

I do all my work myself. No driveway, no garage, in the street and for years.

Done plenty of repairs on machinery and vehicles in the field in all weather conditions, too.

If top down oil changes make me a wuss in the winter because I don’t *choose* to get on the ground, well, fine. I’ll start squatting while I pee.

My dad is 80 and has always done his own work on his cars. He's actually a CPA by profession.

Up until I was in my 30s he always had new car dealers as clients and we used their lifts on Saturday, when sales was open but service was closed. He's since mostly retired and does a top down oil change every other change on his Ridgeline. It works well for him. Its quick and easy.

He does't bother doing the filter because he's doing the change at half the recommended interval anyway. Every other oil change he brings it to a local shop who maintains his race car (Yes, he's still racing. Insanity) and they do a full oil and filter change.

Top down is in theory not as good as a full drain. But the reality is that go fast boat guys have been doing it for decades.

 

[MrZappo]

To be fair, I should probably have explained it better. You're right about pulling the plug and flushing it all out, but sometimes that's just not doable in the winter and wanting to avoid laying on the cold ground. Or if its wet out. No garage here.

That being said, I am super particular about the oil services on my daily driven 2004 BMW 330CI with the M54B30 motor and only slightly less on her 2013 Subaru XV with the FB20 motor.

Ready for the full breakdown?

As follows:

Every 5 changes I do a Liquimoly Engine Flush. On that one I dump from the plug. I'm changing about every 5000-5500 miles give or take, even though the interval from the factory is around 12-15K miles if you follow the oil quality sensor. I add a bottle of Liquimoly Ceratec on this change as well. (25K mile interval, too)

But in between those I'm using the top down changer.

The changer's line gets all the way to the bottom of the pan via the dipstick. Once I've pulled a small amount, I pour that as a sample to send to Blackstone, then finish the removal. Idea being its getting it from the bottom so it will pick up metal shavings if present as well.

I throw a half a quart behind it and suck that out as well to make sure anything else is getting flushed through. I also use it to get all the crevices in the BMW oil filter housing cleared out, too. These motors have very high pressure oil pumps and high flow cartridge filters instead of your typical spin ons. It also gives me a good time to take a look at the housing and make sure the gasket isn't leaking... again.

On the refill I'm using Liquimoly 5w30/5w40 Special Tec and a bottle of their MoS2 friction treatment.

I average about 16-18k miles per year so at least 3-4 changes annually. If it gets track time, it immediately gets a change afterwards with a fresh bottle of MoS2 while I'm flushing the brake system.

My Blackstone reports are solid, with minimal degradation of the oil chemically and well below the threshold on what they consider to be of concern. Particulates are minimal if any.

That preventive maintenance the key to keeping a high mile, older BMW running. My e34 went to 243K miles before I sold it and that was the same exact interval/plan. Plus, the more frequent intervals reduce the possible issues with the VANOS system. If you've ever had to deal with VANOS solenoids, they're easy to replace, once you've taken the whole top end of the motor off. No thanks.

On her car I follow a similar pattern but with Castrol high mileage 0w20 since the thing consumes a half quart every 1500 miles and I can buy that at any parts store in the nation. Tis the curse of a high mileage (190K) Subie.

I bet all of those cars would have gone the same mileage without doing any of that voodoo extra work stuff ...

Diminishing returns and such ...

If it makes you feel good, have at it and tell me that I'm wrong ... And to each his own really ... But aside from a good drain, a new filter and high quality synthetic oil, Im on the couch with a beer or 6 ...

 

[AmishMike]

I'm not saying that you are a wuss, just that a 'top down' oil change is not the choice that I would make.
I have learned to drag a jet-heater out when the temps drop below 20°F. A piece of cardboard, tarp, or even a floormat to lay on works.

@Rusty PW ever have to start a fire under a truck to get it going? How about a fire on the tracks of a piece of equipment to un-freeze it?
@ShadowsPapa frosted plugs. Never would have believed it if I hadn't seen it. -35°F with 30mph winds. Went to start my El Camino and it wouldn't fire. Went back into the engine shop where I worked and owner told me exactly what happened. I went back out, pulled a plug and it was frosty. Held a lighter to it and it lit. Can't make this up.
The fuel crystalized on the sparkplugs.

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