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mghoodlum

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FYI I have JT rear lower arms for sale since I upgraded to 4 link. See classified for more info.
Jeep Gladiator Rock Krawler 3" X Factor JT System 33C8CF11-AACE-4453-8CF9-E0A6BD0B0B58
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MATANZAS STING RAY

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Was your mechanic reimbursed Or were you left on the hook for it?
In either case, how much was the bill?
I’ve talked with several shops and the only one I found that would even think of this is leary and finds it very strange that he has to call Daystar. Even then, he’s leary of getting paid by taking to someone over the phone first.
Most shops want the customer to foot the bill and won’t even consider “calling” a 3rd party first for a promise of getting paid.
Talk is cheap and so far, nobody on this forum has stepped up and said that their shop has been paid by Daystar.
Good news folks. Just got off the phone with Adam at RK and this $$ issue has been resolved. The $75.00 is supposed to be per joint re-build..... Now we just need someone to verify they are being paid correctly by Daystar. I'll be doing mine shortly and see what happens!!
 

Duke56

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$75/Joint X 14 joints = $1050.
 

mghoodlum

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Good news folks. Just got off the phone with Adam at RK and this $$ issue has been resolved. The $75.00 is supposed to be per joint re-build..... Now we just need someone to verify they are being paid correctly by Daystar. I'll be doing mine shortly and see what happens!!
Good luck. I’ve been trying to just get $75 from them since February. As far as I’ve know Daystar has yet to pay out a red cent!
 

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Duke56

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I just finished installing my 4.5 Pro-x no limits with the 2.25 RRD shocks on my gladiator. I also installed kmc beadlocks with 37” Nitto Ridge Grapplers, currently running at 45lbs, and a PSC hydro assist steering kit. Everything went smoothly on the installation and I welded the 4-link cradle to the rear axle. I had the alignment done by a local off-road shop and they said everything looked good with the exception of the rear axel being shifted to the driver side about ½”. At lower speeds it drives great. The rear suspension feels a little soft when I go over a speed bump, but it doesn’t bottom out. As I increase my speed, it starts to wander back and forth. After four days of driving, approximately 300 miles, I just found both the passenger rear control arms have come loose on the body side of the arms. They were torqued to specs four days prior.



I guess I have a few of questions??

How can I or do I need to adjust the rear axle to shift it back to the passenger side ½”?

Would the axel being shifted ½” cause the wandering?

Would the axel being shifted ½” and/or wandering cause the control arms to come loose?
If you’ve torqued all those jam nuts as recommended you shouldn't to have worry about them coming loose. It’s odd that yours have. The threads holding the joint into the arm can fail and cause the entire arm to fail and come apart at that joint.
RK stresses how important that torque is and to check it often.
220 ft lbs is no joke and it takes all ya got to get there. A 4 foot, thick walled jack handle on the end of your torque wrench helps. 🤪
I match marked ALL the nuts and bolts on the complete set of arms and check them annually so I know nothing has changed. Safety first.
With the Pro-X No-Limits, you eliminated the rear track bar which would have been the adjustment for side to side axle location but now the Upper and Lower control arms effect the rear axle side to side location.
To get the rear axle moved 1/2” towards the passenger side you need to either shorten the Upper arm on the Passenger side OR lengthen the Upper arm on the Driver side.
I went to great lengths to make sure my arms were set to RK’s recommended lengths as per the instructions. The Upper Rear arms were a challenge to preset the lengths but when I checked my axle centering to the body I was only off 1/8”! I left everything in the rear alone.
Once I was happy with the rear adjustments (confirmed by the alignment shop) I had the cradle welded to the axle tubes.
The rear arm lengths also effect your pinion angle which if wrong can cause vibrations or premature wear of driveshaft components, U-Joint. I think RK says it should measure only 2 more degrees upward of the drive shafts angle. I used a digital angle gauge with a magnetic base to check that measurement on mine.
So once again…….
With RK’s Triangulated Upper Arms I would either SHORTEN the Upper Rear PASSENGER arm OR LENGTHEN the Upper Rear DRIVER side or a combination of both.
I would take it back to the shop that did the alignment and point out the adjustments they can make to get the axle centered. They will need to disconnect the arm at the adjustable joint end, break loose that 220 ft lb jam nut and either screw it in or out, reassemble it to the cradle and once it’s correct, torque that jam nut back to 220 ft lbs.
Also check the center to center distance between your front and rear axles.
If that dimension is the same then your axles are parallel and it’s a good starting point.
Even with them parallel, having them off center to each other can cause a condition called “Dog-Tracking” which makes your Jeep look like it’s going forward in a straight line but on an angle.
A 1/2” may not be that noticeable but it might effect tire wear.

Wheel Alignment is very important.
Trust me on this one,. I know from first hand experience.
I thought I had the Toe In correct on mine only to burn through a set of front tires in 5000 miles.
It was $85 for the alignment, $500 for 2 new front tires.
How much $$$ you got?? LOL

Sorry for the long winded reply but I hope I’ve helped you understand “Suspension Geometry”
 
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MATANZAS STING RAY

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It is normal to have to re-torque the nuts, most reccomend within 1000 miles and make some control arm adjustments to dial in the system, the suspension components settle in when cycled a few times....
 

SkidMarkLucy

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Assume I may need to call but planning for winter so I can keep an eye out for a deal but anyone run stock wheels and tires or the like with a 3” RK lift? It may just look to off but trying to be responsible for a second set for winter commuting.
 

MATANZAS STING RAY

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Assume I may need to call but planning for winter so I can keep an eye out for a deal but anyone run stock wheels and tires or the like with a 3” RK lift? It may just look to off but trying to be responsible for a second set for winter commuting.
You can run whatever you wish but my 35' s looked small.... my 37' s made a big change and look more proprtionate.... all in the eye of the beholder.... and the one who writes the check, LOL!
 

Duke56

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Assume I may need to call but planning for winter so I can keep an eye out for a deal but anyone run stock wheels and tires or the like with a 3” RK lift? It may just look to off but trying to be responsible for a second set for winter commuting.
I’m running the stock 35 MT’s and got lots of props on the looks.
Yeah they look a bit on the small side but they make the lift look taller too.
Waiting to burn up the OE’s before I get new ones.
 

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SkidMarkLucy

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You can run whatever you wish but my 35' s looked small.... my 37' s made a big change and look more proprtionate.... all in the eye of the beholder.... and the one who writes the check, LOL!
Yeah have 37 MT on it but for winter commuting really want to go to a AT but keep the Beadlock MTs for offroad/summer. Trying to avoid dropping another obscene amount which if I don't watch is what I will do again.
 

Duke56

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This post is an update to the Rock Krawler TSB2 joint replace/rebuild/Daystar fiasco.
I just got off the phone with 2 different shops and they tell me Daystar is only offering to reimburse their labor cost via a purchase credit for their products. 1 of the shops I talked to wants no part of that deal. They haven’t ordered anything from Daystar in over 4 years and they are not interested in that offer whatsoever. Daystar is not offering any cash reimbursements to shops for rebuilding the joints. The other shop I dealt with spoke with Kelly at Daystar and says they MIGHT consider it only because they deal with Daystar direct. In the meantime I’m still driving around in most likely the squeakiest Jeep in the world. If you’ve ever had sex on a bed with squeaky springs….. that’s what I listen to every time I drive. Queek, queek,,,,,,,,,queek,,,,,,queek, queek, queek,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,queek,,,,,
Sometimes I think waterboarding might be less torturous.
So it appears that if you’ve already paid a shop to do the work up front you’re probably S.O.L.
Unless maybe you want to buy some Daystar junk.
 

Troybilt

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This post is an update to the Rock Krawler TSB2 joint replace/rebuild/Daystar fiasco.
I just got off the phone with 2 different shops and they tell me Daystar is only offering to reimburse their labor cost via a purchase credit for their products. 1 of the shops I talked to wants no part of that deal. They haven’t ordered anything from Daystar in over 4 years and they are not interested in that offer whatsoever. Daystar is not offering any cash reimbursements to shops for rebuilding the joints. The other shop I dealt with spoke with Kelly at Daystar and says they MIGHT consider it only because they deal with Daystar direct. In the meantime I’m still driving around in most likely the squeakiest Jeep in the world. If you’ve ever had sex on a bed with squeaky springs….. that’s what I listen to every time I drive. Queek, queek,,,,,,,,,queek,,,,,,queek, queek, queek,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,queek,,,,,
Sometimes I think waterboarding might be less torturous.
So it appears that if you’ve already paid a shop to do the work up front you’re probably S.O.L.
Unless maybe you want to buy some Daystar junk.
This entire situation is un F@$king believable.
 

MATANZAS STING RAY

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This post is an update to the Rock Krawler TSB2 joint replace/rebuild/Daystar fiasco.
I just got off the phone with 2 different shops and they tell me Daystar is only offering to reimburse their labor cost via a purchase credit for their products. 1 of the shops I talked to wants no part of that deal. They haven’t ordered anything from Daystar in over 4 years and they are not interested in that offer whatsoever. Daystar is not offering any cash reimbursements to shops for rebuilding the joints. The other shop I dealt with spoke with Kelly at Daystar and says they MIGHT consider it only because they deal with Daystar direct. In the meantime I’m still driving around in most likely the squeakiest Jeep in the world. If you’ve ever had sex on a bed with squeaky springs….. that’s what I listen to every time I drive. Queek, queek,,,,,,,,,queek,,,,,,queek, queek, queek,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,queek,,,,,
Sometimes I think waterboarding might be less torturous.
So it appears that if you’ve already paid a shop to do the work up front you’re probably S.O.L.
Unless maybe you want to buy some Daystar junk.
Interesting development..... Daystar's "offer" has never been mentioned as the resolution..... I'm still waiting for my RK joint rebuld kit to come in and I'll be on the phone tomorrow to RK... We will get to the bottom of this... or a firm like Morgan and Morgan will..... per the TSB, the shop is supposed to make the request and the direct rep for this issue should return contact to them within 48 hrs.... let's see what RK has to say....
 

DankjeeP

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Interesting development..... Daystar's "offer" has never been mentioned as the resolution..... I'm still waiting for my RK joint rebuld kit to come in and I'll be on the phone tomorrow to RK... We will get to the bottom of this... or a firm like Morgan and Morgan will..... per the TSB, the shop is supposed to make the request and the direct rep for this issue should return contact to them within 48 hrs.... let's see what RK has to say....
Just say the words "class action" and see what happens ;)
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