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Mr._Bill

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As I wait for the incompetent delivery company to reschedule my delivery for the 3rd time in 2 weeks, I have a couple of questions for those who have already installed their caps:

1. Do you have to remove the factory bed rails to install the RSI Smartcap?

2. What are you guys using to install and remove the cap with one person? (Lift type brand or any other sugestions)
No, it sits on the bed rails. I modified a Harbor Freight engine hoist with a 10 foot piece of unistrut to lift mine onto the truck. I installed the rack on it, which made lifting it easier.
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J_0ne

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No, it sits on the bed rails. I modified a Harbor Freight engine hoist with a 10 foot piece of unistrut to lift mine onto the truck. I installed the rack on it, which made lifting it easier.
Can you share some pictures of the hoist setup, TIA.
 

Mr._Bill

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Can you share some pictures of the hoist setup, TIA.
It's pretty easy to setup. I bought it on sale around Christmas time. There's a picture when I installed it, I think in this thread somewhere. It does need some ballast to keep it from tipping over.

Jeep Gladiator RSI Smartcap 20210908_181418


Jeep Gladiator RSI Smartcap 20210908_181517
 

sdhkenyon

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I'm curious which studs you're referring to? On my truck with the cap, it used tension plates with bolts/nuts. I don't remember any studs. Perhaps they changed the assembly process?
You are making me doubt my memory now, but my recollection was that the flat roof had a layer of foam and then bolts sticking through holes. The bolts were attached somehow to the roof but it wasn't visible due to the foam/gasket. My assumption is that they were passed through some sort of flange to keep them anchored and then tack weld to keep them from spinning in place and that the weld wasn't strong enough to stand up to the torque when tightening the nylock nuts which attach the sides to the top. I was able to use a screwdriver behind the washer to put enough pressure on the bolt to keep it from spinning freely and then as it tightened down from the nut it held and I was able to get it up to the right torque.
 

QuickOne

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You are making me doubt my memory now, but my recollection was that the flat roof had a layer of foam and then bolts sticking through holes. The bolts were attached somehow to the roof but it wasn't visible due to the foam/gasket. My assumption is that they were passed through some sort of flange to keep them anchored and then tack weld to keep them from spinning in place and that the weld wasn't strong enough to stand up to the torque when tightening the nylock nuts which attach the sides to the top. I was able to use a screwdriver behind the washer to put enough pressure on the bolt to keep it from spinning freely and then as it tightened down from the nut it held and I was able to get it up to the right torque.

Interesting. Something must have changed then as mine was assembled with bolts that were tightened into load distribution blocks.

Mine was hte same as these instructions. While tedious, I thought it fitup well.

 

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sdhkenyon

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Interesting. Something must have changed then as mine was assembled with bolts that were tightened into load distribution blocks.

Mine was hte same as these instructions. While tedious, I thought it fitup well.

The bolts into load distribution blocks were for the front and rear gate. Same as mine based on the instructions. What i am referring to is the studs on the roof which are shown on page 7 figure 3 of the instructions.
 

QuickOne

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The bolts into load distribution blocks were for the front and rear gate. Same as mine based on the instructions. What i am referring to is the studs on the roof which are shown on page 7 figure 3 of the instructions.
ah, got it. Thanks for clarifying
 

HeyYoSchmitty

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It's pretty easy to setup. I bought it on sale around Christmas time. There's a picture when I installed it, I think in this thread somewhere. It does need some ballast to keep it from tipping over.

20210908_181418.jpg


20210908_181517.jpg
Might be stealing this idea for my RTT.
 

giantpeaches

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I have a Rhino Rack crossbar with the RLT600 legs. To mount this to the RSI Smartcap track, should I order Thule or Yakima hardware?

Thule Hardware for Rhino RLT600

Yakima Hardware for Rhino RLT600
I don't think either one of those actually work. You need M8 weldnut or the plate has to be about 13-14mm wide. That's the width of the bolt track. I'm running Yakima skyline system and modified the bore of the fitting kit to accommodate m8 bolt to work with M8 wedlnut in the tracks.
 

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Oak

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Finally got my Smartcap set up instslled:​
Smartcap sport​
RSI Commercial rack​
OVS awning​
Bedrug (floor and tailgate only).​
20210922_125854.jpg
20210918_190904.jpg
20210922_104703.jpg

20210922_104606.jpg
Looks great, just put mine on this week. Went from Fab Fours rack to the smart cap. I was shocked to see that I actually went up 3 mpg after switching. I was in the 15-16s before and now 19 -20 now. Need to get some pics after some other mods.
 

OffroadAlliance.com

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We just got a huge shipment of the RSI Evo Sport caps! These are the last Sport caps for this calendar year. If you've wanted one, now is the time to grab one. In stock at our Brockton, MA location if you're near us or we ship pretty much everywhere.

Check us out online, shoot us a PM or give us a call. Always happy to help.

Buy online here: Gladiator Smartcap EVO Sport


Phone ------>>>> 888-466-8991

Interwebs ---->>>>
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Jeep Gladiator RSI Smartcap X644mI1
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