You can use heat wrap/sleeve but the issue is that heat reduces the carrying capacity of a wire and it's already a pretty long run. If you really need to run that side (I did) you can just upsize your wire and use a heat wrap anywhere it's close and should be cool. I'm running 10AWG for 10/15A circuits in my truck which is massive overkill but I have near zero voltage drop at the rear corner.
You either traverse from passenger side under the hood, or at the rear, if your end point is rear driver side. Same run length
Dunno how I missed this reply but I just mean the run to the back in general requires upsizing your wire already let alone going up another step to deal with heat losses from running by the exhaust. It's not hard to have an over 30ft run when chaining rear rack lights and all and even 10AWG is borderline when dealing with smart alternators that might only be dumping out 12.7V.
I prefer to run on the passenger side to avoid the exhaust, and definitely take run lengths into account. Also, the aux switch positive feeds are on the passenger side under the hood. My rear lights are the Oracle led aux reverse lights, which barely draw any power. I ran 14awg on the passenger side and my run was less than 25ft. I overkilled the wire size by one gauge probably, but there’s no harm in that.
Yeah I mounted my Switch Pros driver side so I just ran down that side in some fiberglass heat sleeve toward the front sections. Beyond that the airflow makes the exhaust irrelevant but it's toasty near the converter.
Yeah. But 10awg isn’t very expensive. I like over gauging. You may have higher amp draw lights than I do. My front ones are more powerful, but led is still super low power draw in general.
