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Rust! Is it just me?

Mac

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FYI on the rust issues with these JL and JT, I had a drink with some who works at FCA in the corrosion department and they strongly recommended further protection on the frame and other steel components. The E-coat used on the frame is inadequate and the accelerated testing looks horrible on them, worse that any previous framed products...... I already added a coat of Rustolem semi gloss to the fame as an additional barrier.
Fluid Film works very well also, there are a number of different options out there.
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sdk131

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FYI on the rust issues with these JL and JT, I had a drink with some who works at FCA in the corrosion department and they strongly recommended further protection on the frame and other steel components. The E-coat used on the frame is inadequate and the accelerated testing looks horrible on them, worse that any previous framed products...... I already added a coat of Rustolem semi gloss to the fame as an additional barrier.

Interesting...."frame and other steel components"....so basically almost all of the underside....frame, sheetmetal, etc. I was sort of wondering about the e-coat on sthe sheet metal when I was under there crawling around when I first received mine back in February. I already hit most of the exposed frame and sheetmetal on the underside with AMsoil Metal Protector HD....but I think I will go back and spray some more. Amsoil Metal Protector HD is a great product for newer/cleaner vehicles as it goes on like a liquid and dries like a candle wax but with corrosion inhibitors in it. Then I switch to fluid film a few years down the road.
 

dcmdon

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Interesting...."frame and other steel components"....so basically almost all of the underside....frame, sheetmetal, etc. I was sort of wondering about the e-coat on sthe sheet metal when I was under there crawling around when I first received mine back in February. I already hit most of the exposed frame and sheetmetal on the underside with AMsoil Metal Protector HD....but I think I will go back and spray some more. Amsoil Metal Protector HD is a great product for newer/cleaner vehicles as it goes on like a liquid and dries like a candle wax but with corrosion inhibitors in it. Then I switch to fluid film a few years down the road.
I've used FluidFilm. Its nasty stuff. It stays gooey.

Are you saying the Amsoil stuff does not stay sticky and gooey? I ask because I've got a Gladiator on order and will probably hit some areas. But would prefer if it was not gooey.

Its really pathetic. I've got a 19 year old Volvo that has ZERO rust and its been driven in New England its entire life. Its even on its original exhaust.

People think of most European brands as "premium" brands. But the reality is that a reasonably loaded Gladiator cost more than many luxury cars. I would hope for a little more attention to detail.
 

jac04

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Anyway, I don't see why a person can't put a sleeve or spacer on another bolt.......
It's basically a shoulder bolt with a captive washer.
I may end up trying to go this route on my Mojave. McMaster Carr actually has some 316 stainless shoulder screws that look like they may work when combined with a washer (or washers) of the correct thickness (p/n 90269A157). Otherwise, I'll use a fully threaded screw with a spacer cut to the proper length.
 

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I've used FluidFilm. Its nasty stuff. It stays gooey.

Are you saying the Amsoil stuff does not stay sticky and gooey? I ask because I've got a Gladiator on order and will probably hit some areas. But would prefer if it was not gooey.

Its really pathetic. I've got a 19 year old Volvo that has ZERO rust and its been driven in New England its entire life. Its even on its original exhaust.

People think of most European brands as "premium" brands. But the reality is that a reasonably loaded Gladiator cost more than many luxury cars. I would hope for a little more attention to detail.
Yes, I used the Amsoil Metal Protector HD after reading about it on here. Good choice for a new clean vehicle, more like a waxy finish instead of drippy goo.
 

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dcmdon

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I've used FluidFilm. Its nasty stuff. It stays gooey.

Are you saying the Amsoil stuff does not stay sticky and gooey? I ask because I've got a Gladiator on order and will probably hit some areas. But would prefer if it was not gooey.
Yes, I used the Amsoil Metal Protector HD after reading about it on here. Good choice for a new clean vehicle, more like a waxy finish instead of drippy goo.
Thank you. My plan is to hit mostly fasteners so I don't have a problem with future maintenance.
 

dcmdon

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Yes, I used the Amsoil Metal Protector HD after reading about it on here. Good choice for a new clean vehicle, more like a waxy finish instead of drippy goo.
Where did you buy the Amsoil? Thanks.
 

ShadowsPapa

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FYI on the rust issues with these JL and JT, I had a drink with some who works at FCA in the corrosion department and they strongly recommended further protection on the frame and other steel components. The E-coat used on the frame is inadequate and the accelerated testing looks horrible on them, worse that any previous framed products...... I already added a coat of Rustolem semi gloss to the fame as an additional barrier.
Rust isn't an issue with Jeeps - it's an issue with trucks. My Chevy was rusting in the frame area, my Ford had horrible flaky frame rust - pretty much anything welded to the frame or part of the frame was flaky.
Frames aren't protected on any truck I've ever owned. it's among the first part to rust.
We put a Ford on the hoist one time and the hoist pad literally broke through the frame when we lifted it.
Jeep is not alone.
 

Wheelin98TJ

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Rust isn't an issue with Jeeps - it's an issue with trucks. My Chevy was rusting in the frame area, my Ford had horrible flaky frame rust - pretty much anything welded to the frame or part of the frame was flaky.
Frames aren't protected on any truck I've ever owned. it's among the first part to rust.
We put a Ford on the hoist one time and the hoist pad literally broke through the frame when we lifted it.
Jeep is not alone.
I just got rid of a 2010 F150 that had 270k on it. The frame still looked great.

My TJ looked much worse at half that mileage. I haven't had any newer Jeeps with a frame, so I can't say if it has gotten better since then.
 

ShadowsPapa

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I just got rid of a 2010 F150 that had 270k on it. The frame still looked great.

My TJ looked much worse at half that mileage. I haven't had any newer Jeeps with a frame, so I can't say if it has gotten better since then.
I wore a face shield when working under my Ford. My Chevy wasn't as bad but still rusty. Not to the point of losing integrity - it was still solid, but it was rusty.
May have pics of the Chevy, I know the Ford pics are gone with a computer crash years ago.
My 1982 SX4 has no rust - so I was shocked to see a 2011 Chevy rusted the way it was when a 1982 AMC has zero rust on the frame rails.
 

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sdk131

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I've used FluidFilm. Its nasty stuff. It stays gooey.

Are you saying the Amsoil stuff does not stay sticky and gooey? I ask because I've got a Gladiator on order and will probably hit some areas. But would prefer if it was not gooey.

Its really pathetic. I've got a 19 year old Volvo that has ZERO rust and its been driven in New England its entire life. Its even on its original exhaust.

People think of most European brands as "premium" brands. But the reality is that a reasonably loaded Gladiator cost more than many luxury cars. I would hope for a little more attention to detail.

That is correct, the amsoil product dries to a a candlewax consistency. No dripping, no seeping. But just be advised to use it in a very welll ventilated area.....lots of serious chemicals in it.
 

dcmdon

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That is correct, the amsoil product dries to a a candlewax consistency. No dripping, no seeping. But just be advised to use it in a very welll ventilated area.....lots of serious chemicals in it.
Thank you. So winter presents a bit of a problem to work around. You want ventilation, but you want the surfaces warm.

I'll probably try keeping it in my garage and cranking the heat then roll it out and spray it.

Or maybe dig up my respirator, but that sounds miserable. Ha.

Either way, thank you for the info.
 

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I'd stick a galvanized washer under it. The galvanized washer will protect the bolt and whatever its screwed into.
-Or a black nylon washer maybe?
 

dcmdon

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-Or a black nylon washer maybe?
Black nylon won't hurt or help.

Galvanized will help whatever it is up against. The zinc plating acts as a sacrificial anode.

Stainless will hurt whatever it is up against. The stainless becomes the cathode and forces oxidation of whatever it is up against.
 

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Black nylon won't hurt or help.

Galvanized will help whatever it is up against. The zinc plating acts as a sacrificial anode.

Stainless will hurt whatever it is up against. The stainless becomes the cathode and forces oxidation of whatever it is up against.
Depends on what the stainless is against and the number of the stainless.
Some stainless is fine with some metals. I've used stainless fasteners in some things for many years without any trouble. As long as the metal and stainless steel type are close to each other in the chart, they'll be fine for many years.

Galvanized is a rough gray surface compared to zinc plating which is smooth.
Galvanized is hot dipped and thicker. Plating is applied like I do, electrically. It's thinner, more uniform.
Don't use galvanized where torque or clamping force is important. Fine as a washer where there's not a lot of force (like against plastic)
Galvanized fasteners (washers, bolts, etc.) may not take paint well. Proper prep, though, and they can be painted. The zinc quickly develops a thin layer of zinc oxide and paint won't stick to that so don't wait to paint, and prep first.
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