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Rust! Is it just me?

redrider

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That is correct, the amsoil product dries to a a candlewax consistency. No dripping, no seeping. But just be advised to use it in a very welll ventilated area.....lots of serious chemicals in it.
Does the product cause dirt and debris to cling to the surface? Last century, undercoating of vehicles by Zeebart and others was a lucrative business. Undercoating was a factory option as well but with reportedly thinner coverage.
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Hootbro

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It is three hours of driving just to take it to the dealer. Not much to choose for a test drive. I will call them and send pictures of the bolts so they can have them on hand. I certainly don't want to make the trip twice. 6 hours of driving for rusted washers would suck. A wasted tank of fuel, a bigger hole in the ozone layer just to start down this rabbit trail.
Unless you got other business to attended with to justify the trip back and forth, probably cheaper just to pay out of pocket and online order the replacement fasteners themselves.

I would also be surprised if your dealer actually per-ordered them to be waiting without having first had a physical warranty visit.
 

jac04

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Does the product cause dirt and debris to cling to the surface?
I use CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor, which leaves a similar finish as the Amsoil product. When it dries, it feels 'waxy', but it isn't what I would call sticky. I find that sand / dirt particles will stick to it if the particles directly impinge on the surface. When I wash down with a regular garden hose sprayer, any larger particles wash right off. However, over long term use, the coating will become a little dirty looking.
 

Trickster

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FYI on the rust issues with these JL and JT, The E-coat used on the frame is inadequate and the accelerated testing looks horrible on them according to corrosion engineers...... I already added a coat of Rustolem semi gloss to the fame as an additional barrier.
What is your reference source on this info?
I would like to read that.
Thanks.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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What is your reference source on this info?
I would like to read that.
Thanks.
All I can think of is the standard salt spray test as used to test and certify plating and other similar protections (like black oxides and so on)
 

jeepin48

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What is your reference source on this info?
I would like to read that.
Thanks.
I would love to provide a test summary but I can't for a few reasons.
 
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Trickster

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I would love to provide a test summary but I can't for a few reasons.
Okay then.
I see by your listed occupation there might be a contravention of information you are privy to.🤫
 

Vtur

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As a hobbyists welder, I'm surprised by Jeep decided to coats the frame and suspension components without first removing those mig welding silicon. It's those brown looking stuff along the weld joints. It will eventually falls off and corrode. We've always removes it to prep for paint.
 

bentrod

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I have had mine out a couple times as I changed lights on my Mopar cowl brackets. Each time I coat them with Fluid Film as I notice they had a little surface rust on them. Fluid Film works really well for this type of thing.
FLUID FILM is great stuff. Spray in the the doors, tail gate, and rocker drain holes, all over the chassis. And yes slop it on bolts too.
 

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maddocmuc

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Get matching bolts in inox and replace them….
 

jac04

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Get matching bolts in inox and replace them….
It's not that easy because of the shouldered bolts used at the top locations. I have done a lot of searching, and I have not found any "matching bolts" for these.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Send the bolts here, I'll replate them in black zinc and send them back. I've a lot of plating jobs in the next couple of months and as long as I can match surface area with other things being plated, they'd fit right in.
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