Serious lean on passenger side

[ducatijosh]

Hello, if you're having an issue with your vehicle leaning, definitely get in contact with us as we can work with you to correct the issue. Step one would be unbolting the shocks and sway bar end links, cycling the suspension, and then checking to see if the lean has gone away. This is the most common cause of lean and is easily remedied. There is about 1/2" of lean from the factory which is totally normal and mostly due to a full or empty gas tank, however, any more than this is worth looking into.

My gladiator has the same lean with a clayton overland plus 2.5” kit. Something is wrong here. I think you need taller springs on the passenger side. The lean is still present with swaybars disconnected.

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[unixxx]

Each corner of the Gladiator weighs a different amount and the Clayton springs aren't corner specific, so you will have a lean with them. This is true for basically all springs except the OEM Mopar springs. I compensated for this a bit by installing a Rock Jock spring shim under the front passenger isolator:

https://www.rockjock4x4.com/RJ-107100-1
https://www.rockjock4x4.com/RJ-107100-3

 

[ZoMojave]

No lift. I had left rear lean/squat at 5,000 miles that measured about an inch. Jeep replaced the spring under warranty.

 

[PuddleJumper]

I've recently noticed that the passenger side of my Gladiator with 2" Mopar lift is leaning. I haven't measured it yet, but by the eyeball test it's about 3/4" to 1" of lean. Now, like any normal Jeep owner would to, I searched the internet to find answers. I found three possible answers:

1.) It leans to the right to account for the weight of the driver.
2.) It leans to the right because that's where the fuel tank is and fuel is heavy.
3.) All Jeep Wranglers/Gladiators do it, it's just more noticeable on lifted vehicles.

So I set out to figure out which one is the real answer/solution. Here's what I found:

1.) I sat in the driver's seat (I weigh 200 lbs.) - Probably took 1/4" out of the lean.
2.) Ran the fuel tank damn near empty - lean is still the same.
3.) I've seen rear end shots of many lifted Wrangler/Gladiators and the lean isn't there. Even on some with 4.5" of lift.

Does anyone else have any experience or ideas with this? Are there any real solutions out there besides putting coil spacers on one side?

Also, because I know I'll get asked - Yes, all the springs are in the correct spot. I installed the lift myself and checked the instructions about 8 times before I installed them.

I just mounted my two jerry cans on the left side of the bed. took out the 1/2 - 3/4 of lean.

 

[Clayton Off Road]

My gladiator has the same lean with a clayton overland plus 2.5” kit. Something is wrong here. I think you need taller springs on the passenger side. The lean is still present with swaybars disconnected.

Hey Josh, we can probably help you figure out what's going on if you want to email us some pictures or give us a call! We sell a ton of these kits and most do not experience lean issues, there are just a couple of different things during the install process that can exaggerate the lean the JT already has from the factory due to the weight of the gas tank.

Usually what I advise for troubleshooting steps would be to go around and make sure all 4 coils are properly seated within the buckets' top and bottom. The next thing to do would be to make sure there is no bind occurring, and if there is to eliminate it which can be easily done by loosening all 4 shocks and end links, bouncing up and down on the hood a few times, and then tightening everything back up. This is also a good time to check for a bad shock, which you can do by closing the shock by hand and making sure all 4 compress and rebound appropriately. If you're still having an issue, just reach out and we can help you out further!

 

[unixxx]

Ideally, when lifting the JT, once the new springs are in, the wheels are on, and the Jeep is back on the ground, all control arm nuts and bolts should be loosened and re-torqued. The service manual recommends torquing the control arms at ride height to prevent binding and wear on the OEM high quality rubber bushings.

Doing this is a major job though, requiring application of almost 250 ft lb on a peak angle torque wrench while under the vehicle, so I doubt anyone actually does it.

This could be a factor in settling and lean though.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The service manual recommends torquing the control arms at ride height to prevent binding and wear on the OEM high quality rubber bushings.

That's been the case since the use of bonded rubber bushings first started before I was even born.
Always, no matter the vehicle, leave things loose enough to move or shift, set the vehicle with all 4 planted on the ground or the weight of the vehicle on the wheels or axles, then tighten..
Unless you loosen things enough, they can't shift to the new normal, so just a half turn won't always do it. The teeth in the center sleeve of a bushing can bit into the steel that's clamping it in place so it has to be loose enough for those teeth to disengage and shift.

I do that with any vehicle I've worked on. My first boss taught me that in the 1970s.

 

[LameName]

I know I'm reviving a year old thread, but it seems to fit.

I just finished installing the Clayton 2.5" Overland + lift on my Gladiator and have a 3/4" lean to the passenger side.

All control arm bolts are still loose.
All Shock bolts are loose.
Front and rear sways are disconnected.
All springs are seated and clocked.

 

[Clayton Off Road]

I know I'm reviving a year old thread, but it seems to fit.

I just finished installing the Clayton 2.5" Overland + lift on my Gladiator and have a 3/4" lean to the passenger side.

All control arm bolts are still loose.
All Shock bolts are loose.
Front and rear sways are disconnected.
All springs are seated and clocked.

Hey Scott, always happy to help if you want to shoot us over some pictures via email or give us a call! We can usually help to diagnose issues once we look into it a bit

 

[LameName]

Hey Scott, always happy to help if you want to shoot us over some pictures via email or give us a call! We can usually help to diagnose issues once we look into it a bit

Thanks for reaching out. It's sitting a little better today.

I did just send an email to [email protected]. My kit had 4 elbow fittings for the front sway bar end links, instead of 3 elbows and 1 heim/straight/eyelet (the one for front passenger bottom).

I'm so close, but stimied by one tiny little $30 part.

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