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So, how much do you really scrape the belly while off road? Lifted.

hjdca

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Looks to me like the oil pan is pretty vulnerable. I think I would rather bang up the control arms joints than bust the oil pan but maybe it’s an illusion
The oil pan is vulnerable, but, it is much higher up and above the drive shaft, which would take a hit first.... It would have to be a conscience decision to try an obstacle high enough that could damage the oil pan.... In my experience, Regarding control arm joints skids and diff covers, just losing the right line during a mid-level trail can cause unexpected damage.

PS. For what I do here on the west coast, I also believe the control arm skids, diff covers, etc.... are the cheapest damage insurance - dollar for dollar -- and weight wise.
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jthadius

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The only concern is Rusty's rear control arm skids (front of control arm). Rockhard does not make these, and I could not find any other vendor. Rusty's are really nice. I am glad I bought them.
The only concern with Rusty's is the rear screw in this pic that helps hold the skid in place is off by 1/2 a bolt too low. Most people bolt it in place, then drill the control arm mount, pretty easy, but, will give you an oblong hole right there where you can see it, IF you ever decide to take off your skids. Not a big concern since you are not taking them off... In addition, the lower hole allows you to much easier put the nut on in back. The stock hole pushes the nut against the body. It might be why Rusty's did it like that...,
but, still, I decided to instead hog out the hole in the skid and not alter the hole in the control arm tab. This is much harder to do and time consuming... In addition, I barely cleared the body when putting the nut on that hole, but, I did clear....


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So if you put it on with the bottom back bolt first, the the control arm bolt, the the top small bolt, keeping all the bolts loose, you don’t have to do any drilling or grinding. It’s important that you thread the bottom back nut on before you put the control arm bolt in, otherwise youlll never get it on. But if installed in this manner, no need for grinding or drilling.
 
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Commodus

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So if you put it on with the bottom back bolt first, the the control arm bolt, the the top small bolt, keeping all the bolts loose, you don’t have to do any drilling or grinding. It’s important that you thread the bottom back nut on before you put the control arm bolt in, otherwise youlll never get it on. But if installed in this manner, no need for grinding or drilling.
Getting ready to install my set that I received for Christmas, and was trying to find the torque specifications for the control arm bolt when installing? The only thing I found was 180 foot lbs, but that seems high, any help, thanks
 

Renegade

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Getting ready to install my set that I received for Christmas, and was trying to find the torque specifications for the control arm bolt when installing? The only thing I found was 180 foot lbs, but that seems high, any help, thanks
Lower control arms are 180 ft/lbs.
 

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mx5red

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So if you put it on with the bottom back bolt first, the the control arm bolt, the the top small bolt, keeping all the bolts loose, you don’t have to do any drilling or grinding. It’s important that you thread the bottom back nut on before you put the control arm bolt in, otherwise youlll never get it on. But if installed in this manner, no need for grinding or drilling.
I’m sorry, but this isn’t true for everybody. When I installed mine I tried various order of bolts and there was no way the holes lined up without drilling something - I picked skid plate. I have some pics that show my holes were off when just lining up the bracket.
 
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jthadius

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I’m sorry, but this isn’t true for everybody. When I installed mine I tried various order of bolts and there was no way the holes lined up without drilling something - I picked skid plate. I have some pics that show my holes were off when just liking up the bracket.
Sorry to hear that.
 

bleubob

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Wow! Nice. Any pics of the near miss? Was the trailer sticking In the sans or the Jeep ?
Jeep had plenty of clearance...but when I was clear of the loose sand I stopped and looked back; I had literally dragged the trailer through the sand as evidenced by the axle track. No, didn’t get a pic and don’t think I’ll go back for a replay!
 

Trippin01

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With 34's and a 2.5" lift got high centered at the waterfall on the Poison Spider in MOAB, so went to 4.5" suspension lift and 37's. still running 4.10 gears for now. We'll see how the next 9 Badge of Honor trails turnout. I may go to 40's at which point I would have to re-gear. I've used my skids several times, but I got my JT as a trail/off road rig. It is not a DD, never will be. I want more skids. I did just add skids to my Diffs.
 

StingyJT

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With 34's and a 2.5" lift got high centered at the waterfall on the Poison Spider in MOAB, so went to 4.5" suspension lift and 37's. still running 4.10 gears for now. We'll see how the next 9 Badge of Honor trails turnout. I may go to 40's at which point I would have to re-gear. I've used my skids several times, but I got my JT as a trail/off road rig. It is not a DD, never will be. I want more skids. I did just add skids to my Diffs.
Surprised you got high centered on waterfall with that setup. I did it at Easter Jeep Safari with 37s and 2.75" of lift (Mopar plus 3/4 spacers).
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