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Spray In Bed Liner Advice

kevman65

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Maybe this can be made a "Sticky" so people see it.

If you're GOING to get your bed spray lined here are some helpful hints.

1.) Do NOT believe the installer when they say they will prep your bed 100%. They won't, they'll spray in all the threaded inserts.
2.) Buy some cheap WOODEN golf tees, insert them in all 12 M6 holes, 4 on each bedside, 4 on bulkhead.
Tell installer if they remove any of them, THEY will be cleaning out the threads on THEIR dime.
3.) Remove tie down D-rings on fender wells yourself, insert golf tees here also. They will remove the D-rings, but don't protect the threads. On 2019-Mid 2020 there are also 2 M8 threaded holes on bulkhead in the corner, lowest hole. Same warning as #2 to installer.

If you already HAVE your spray-in bed liner in and everything is plugged up.

1.) Don't panic, it's not hard to clean the threads, it just takes time and is repetitive, can't get in a hurry or you'll screw one up. It's easier to clean the holes if it's warm to hot out, the liner is a bit pliable. When cold it will be hard and brittle.
2.) You need an M6 x 1 and an M8 x 1.25 tap. (I tried the thread cleaner boys, won't clear the initial bed liner). These can be had at Lowe's, Home Depot, Amazon. Right now no one seems to have on shelf, everyone has to order and ship.
3.) You need a small adjustable wrench, some light oil, 1/4" ratchet and and extension, sockets that fit the square end of taps.
4.) Applying medium pressure (have to get through 1/8"-1/4" of liner) and turning clockwise to start tap in. If you've never done this before, start with the adjustable wrench. If you feel confident, start with ratchet. You'll feel it when get past liner, stop and thread it back out, apply oil to end of tap and thread back in. As you thread in, after 1 - 2 full turns, thread it back out and clear flutes. If at any time it gets hard to turn, STOP, BACK IT OUT, CLEAN OFF and keep repeating until it goes smooth. I tested and found you can run the tap all the way in and not bottom out on fender.
5.)Repeat #4 for all threaded holes.

2019-Mid 2020: 12-M6 holes, 4 on each side wall and 4 on bulk head. 4-M8 holes, 2 on bulk head in corner, lowest hole and 2 D-rings.

Mid 2020 -Current: 12 M6 holes, 4 on each side wall, 4 on bulk head. 2-M8 holes, 2 D-rings.
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Rockabillyroy

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Good advice. That being said, I asked my shop if they'd done some Gladiators before mine and they said they'd done several. And they also glossed over what they'd prep regarding the threaded holes and the tailgate. My threads were clear and free of any spray when I picked it up. Makes me appreciate the quality of service I got even more.
 

bailer

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Good recommendations. I purchased some cap screws for the box and tailgate to protect the threads.

The one thing I didn’t do, but should have, is plug the holes in the top corners of the bulkhead facing the cab. There are a couple holes in top that are blind on many trucks but open on the Gladiator. My technician failed to plug them and the back of my cab, behind the box has overspray on it. Not an issue with my dark paint but would be disappointing on a light truck!
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