Transfer Case Drop Kit?

[TreyK42]

Spent the last couple of weekends installing an EVO 2.5” Overland kit, King Shocks, and Metalcloak track bars/control arms. Took it to get aligned and the shop told me I needed a kit to lower my transfer case because my front pinion angle was too steep and if I didn’t drop it at least 1/2 inch I would damage my driveshaft.

Isn’t that what adjustable control arms are for? Don’t they give you a way to dial all of that in?

Taking it to another shop today but has anyone ever been told this before?

-Trey

Sponsored

 

[Mr._Bill]

I am not experienced with this, but what I have read indicates replacing the front driveshaft since the factory one is too short for higher lifts, and possibly a spacer to lower the middle joint in the rear shaft. I have not read of anyone suggesting a kit to lower the transfer case.

 

[TreyK42]

Apparently this is a thing…

https://www.quadratec.com/categories/jeep-drivetrain/transfer-case/transfer-case-lowering-kits

I called EVO and they said I need to take it to a shop that knows what they are doing. The guy I spoke with, Melvin, said they’ve never lowered a transfer case. We’ll see what today’s visit brings.

 

[Mr._Bill]

Apparently this is a thing…

https://www.quadratec.com/categories/jeep-drivetrain/transfer-case/transfer-case-lowering-kits

I called EVO and they said I need to take it to a shop that knows what they are doing. The guy I spoke with, Melvin, said they’ve never lowered a transfer case. We’ll see what today’s visit brings.

Those are all for older models. None of the kits listed on that page are for the JL or JT.

 

[TreyK42]

Those are all for older models. None of the kits listed on that page are for the JL or JT.

Yessir…I just noticed that.

 

[Trout Safari]

I have an EVO lift and I replaced both Front and rear shafts.

 

[TreyK42]

I have an EVO lift and I replaced both Front and rear shafts.

Good to know. Maybe something I will have to do as well.

 

[hjdca]

Front drive shaft replacement is recommended for 3.5" lift kits. Rear drive shaft is fine. You can get the Rock Jock carrier bearing spacer to reduce the angle and use your adjustable control arms to give the right pinion angle in the rear.

I have the Clayton 3.5" overland Plus kit and I only replaced my front drive shaft and put the Rock Jock carrier bearing spacer in the rear. I have gone 25K miles and 4 badge of honor since then and the driveshafts look and perform great.

PS. Transfer case drop sounds like a bad solution to a simple problem. The Gladiator scrapes the rocks enough as it is, I cannot imagine lowering the transfer case so it can be destroyed by rocks.

 

[obrianmcc]

.... I didn't think driveshaft replacement was necessary for lifts under 3"?

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

Man- usually with jeeps we try to go the other way- tummy tucker and go up with the fuel tank and transfer case….

When you find a better shop things will straighten outs

At 2.5” you aren’t even going to get drive line vibration from the shafts…. No “transfer case drop” required. Funny reading this- it’s probably been 25 years since I have heard of a transfer case drop- the YJ’s on cheap lifts they would come with skid plate drop spacers (in essence dropped the transfer case) because the shafts were short- without the drop you needed a SYE kit and double cardigan joints.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

.... I didn't think driveshaft replacement was necessary for lifts under 3"?

Don’t base the need for drive shaft replacement on lift height. You really want to base it off of extended shock length.

My brain isn’t working this morning- 28” is max length before drive shaft issues- someone will confirm or roast me… ?

The drooop- and specifically the drivers side front tends to be the least “droopable” tire before driveshaft contact or over extension at the tcase comes in.

You can replace the shaft- or put a limiting strap on that corner (for slow rock crawling) or strap both sides of the front (same droop) for going fast….

 

[@californiajeeping]

Good to know. Maybe something I will have to do as well.

You need a smaller diameter driveshaft with a dual CV joint to get clearance with the skid plate and more downtravel. Really 3.5" is the max on the front shaft. You can disconnect your sway bar and see that the driveshaft CV joint at the transfer case will "hold" the axle up. Disconnect the flange at the axle and youll get another 1-2" of droop and the flange will not be able to go down to meet the axle.

Aftermarket driveshaft solves the skid/tcase clearance and the not enough droop issue.

 

[Bonanza]

I have a 3.5" lift, front LCAs, pinion angle 0 and 6 degrees castor. Stock driveshaft. It's been fine so far. I'll upgrade driveshafts maybe at some point but not in a rush.

Sponsored