FWIW i rqan without the liner for a while in the texas heat. It was always parked in the sun and hood temps (taken with an infrared thermometer) were the same with or without it. Matter of fact the hood temp after a couple hours of driving was the same temp it would be at sitting in the sun all day.
FWIW I know what it’s for. When I was a municipal firefighter for about 5 years I probably had a car fire every other cycle. In our academy training and tech rescue classes I took we covered vehicle fire tactics, along with the usual stabilization, rescue, entry, etc. The hood insulation, what it does, how to deal with it, e.g. cut it back from the battery to cut the cables after its fallen onto the engine, and under hood fire fighting tactics in general were covered. We saw demos of it working during practicals and I’ve seen it work as intended in the field. It’s unquestionably a fire suppression device. It was always critical that we not damage one of these covers when gaining entry to the engine compartment during a fire; to minimize any opening that will supply further oxygen when creating an opening to get water onto the fire to allow the device to work.
Very in depth, real world explanation. thank youFWIW I know what it’s for. When I was a municipal firefighter for about 5 years I probably had a car fire every other cycle. In our academy training and tech rescue classes I took we covered vehicle fire tactics, along with the usual stabilization, rescue, entry, etc. The hood insulation, what it does, how to deal with it, e.g. cut it back from the battery to cut the cables after its fallen onto the engine, and under hood fire fighting tactics in general were covered. We saw demos of it working during practicals and I’ve seen it work as intended in the field. It’s unquestionably a fire suppression device. It was always critical that we not damage one of these covers when gaining entry to the engine compartment during a fire; to minimize any opening that will supply further oxygen when creating an opening to get water onto the fire to allow the device to work.
As far as general heat insulation. Of course it’s for heat this purpose. You can find sites that sell it for this stated purpose. You can find sites and forums all over the internet talking about using it and other materials for heat mitigation and shielding on other, usually high performance vehicles or over top of turbos, or exhaust components. You can find numerous entries on performance car forums where people have had paint issues on their hoods from engine heat. I’ve owned vehicles where this under hood insulation varied in thickness depending on its proximity to high temp components or included a reflective layer over top of it in strategic locations. You will find documentation in some owners manuals or service manuals referring to it as heat and noise insulation or a fire smothering panel and warn against removing it. We used similar panels inside cabinets for certain systems in Shipbuiding for the same purposes.
My 2004 Wrangler that I bought from AEV in Missoula, had their heat reduction hood. That hood was developed to deal with heat soak issues with their Hemi conversions. It had a literal open mesh vent in the front of it to let heat pour out and it worked. AEV still included internal hood insulation on the vehicle. If its contribution to the heat soak issues was such an issue they would have removed the insulation before reingineering the hood with an actual vent.
Generally speaking the engines in Jeeps don’t put out the kind of point source heat some performance cars do, e.g., cars with large turbo chargers. You probably can get away with removing it on a Jeep without seeing damage to the paint as people here have attested to. Thats great if that’s peoples preference. I don’t really see the gain in removing it, but you do you. That being said, I’ve seen plastic components under the hood my ecodiesel starting to warp from the heat. When I open my hood I get a blast of heat I’ve never experienced from a non-high performance vehicle.
Personally, I wouldn’t remove this insulation from the diesel. I wouldn’t run a hood mounted solar panel either on the diesel. With what little room I have to mount things I always use metal or heat resistant phenolic resin under the hood.
Same. Might be a touch of OCD
Relax I wasn’t attacking you I was just adding to your comment about temperature deltas or whatever it was. I never mentioned whether I thought removing it was a good idea or not. Just wanted to provide some personal observations.FWIW I know what it’s for. When I was a municipal firefighter for about 5 years I probably had a car fire every other cycle. In our academy training and tech rescue classes I took we covered vehicle fire tactics, along with the usual stabilization, rescue, entry, etc. The hood insulation, what it does, how to deal with it, e.g. cut it back from the battery to cut the cables after its fallen onto the engine, and under hood fire fighting tactics in general were covered. We saw demos of it working during practicals and I’ve seen it work as intended in the field. It’s unquestionably a fire suppression device. It was always critical that we not damage one of these covers when gaining entry to the engine compartment during a fire; to minimize any opening that will supply further oxygen when creating an opening to get water onto the fire to allow the device to work.
As far as general heat insulation. Of course it’s for heat this purpose. You can find sites that sell it for this stated purpose. You can find sites and forums all over the internet talking about using it and other materials for heat mitigation and shielding on other, usually high performance vehicles or over top of turbos, or exhaust components. You can find numerous entries on performance car forums where people have had paint issues on their hoods from engine heat. I’ve owned vehicles where this under hood insulation varied in thickness depending on its proximity to high temp components or included a reflective layer over top of it in strategic locations. You will find documentation in some owners manuals or service manuals referring to it as heat and noise insulation or a fire smothering panel and warn against removing it. We used similar panels inside cabinets for certain systems in Shipbuiding for the same purposes.
My 2004 Wrangler that I bought from AEV in Missoula, had their heat reduction hood. That hood was developed to deal with heat soak issues with their Hemi conversions. It had a literal open mesh vent in the front of it to let heat pour out and it worked. AEV still included internal hood insulation on the vehicle. If its contribution to the heat soak issues was such an issue they would have removed the insulation before reingineering the hood with an actual vent.
Generally speaking the engines in Jeeps don’t put out the kind of point source heat some performance cars do, e.g., cars with large turbo chargers. You probably can get away with removing it on a Jeep without seeing damage to the paint as people here have attested to. Thats great if that’s peoples preference. I don’t really see the gain in removing it, but you do you. That being said, I’ve seen plastic components under the hood my ecodiesel starting to warp from the heat. When I open my hood I get a blast of heat I’ve never experienced from a non-high performance vehicle.
Personally, I wouldn’t remove this insulation from the diesel. I wouldn’t run a hood mounted solar panel either on the diesel. With what little room I have to mount things I always use metal or heat resistant phenolic resin under the hood.
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/open-hood-vents-anyone.29132/
I more or less didn't put it back because most of the clips broke when removing the insulation and I was lazy about buying the clips and marking and cutting the insulation for functional hood vents.
I didn’t say or think you were attacking me. I’ve never heard these hood panels be called fire blankets. There is a thing called a fire blanket. In fact they recommend people keep one or more in their homes as part of their fire escape plan. The hood panels are much thicker and stiff as they do more than just serve to smother fires. It’s not been that long ago that I was a firefighter. I don’t think the tactics nor vehicle technology has evolved that much and these panels really weren’t part of our tactics. Just something to be aware of. They’re just a passive device. The basic strategy of fighting ICE vehicle fires under the hood is basically the same regardless of whether a vehicle has one of these or not. It you open the hood you feed the fire and it’s dangerous. We usually popped it and then pried open enough of a gap with a Halligan bar to get water from our booster line into the engine compartment. Sometimes we ran an 1 3/4 pre-connect. It was policy to do so but we would use our judgment and usually just pull the booster line (glorified garden hose on a reel)
That was 3.5 years ago. Been about 200K more gladiators sold since then with probably a like exponential rate of people joining the forum.
It’s funny I just clicked on that thread and one of the first things I read was that the “early” wranglers didn’t have insulation panels and that it started with the JK, and that the AEV heat reduction hood didn’t have it. Both of my TJs (98’ and 04’ from AEV) had an insulation panel that was like cardboard. My SWB AEV came direct from them and had the heat reduction hood with an insulation panel. There’s some threads on old forums discussing how the addition of these panels in the 90’s and early 00’s was hit or miss for some reason. The mystery of these panels is like weird old Jeep folklore.
In my mind I was typing that they acted like a fire blanket. Anyway I asked 2 different FFs from 2 different departments and both said they’ve never been told they’re to smother an engine fire and both say they burn up and don’t smother anything. Maybe they’re made differently in different parts of the country. Or they’re just there for sound/heat insulation (to prevent paint damage).
They’re designed to minimize the spread and damage of a small fire and increase the time it takes to spread. By the time the FD arrives if they were called usually it has burned up.
This might be a stupid question, but what’s that blue shiny filter? I’m curious about that, please educate me as I’ve never came across that before. Pretty cool!I more or less didn't put it back because most of the clips broke when removing the insulation and I was lazy about buying the clips and marking and cutting the insulation for functional hood vents.
It is a UPR products oil catch can in the PCV line from the back of the valve cover to the intake manifold.
