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VM 3.0 general overview and current observations - Q&A encouraged

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Like I'd mentioned earlier, the Rubicon hood has the passive vents/channels; it's why the SB scoops are effective in both rolesI mentioned. I can't speak to the non-rubi diesel, but this is a sport gas. Note the partially open intake air boot, and the sealing surface above, of which you speak.

It's like they almost want the EcoD to be unappealing.
Here is my Sport EcoD hood and intake boot. Nowhere for air to come from except the plastic grill tube, I have no idea how that satisfies the volumetric requirements of the engine. Also wouldn’t really be pulling hot air from the engine too though. Is Rubicon different?

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Like I have said earlier, my modification, in a 21' JTR, involved removing the long upper portion of that boot, and installing the SB hood scoops. The hood scoops do two things: remove areas of heat buildup, and provide some needed fresh air to the trimmed ductwork. See pics, along with a few underhood of the 15' WK2 EcoD air intake. In any case, that rectangular opening in your hood is interesting...almost as if that was "enough" to certify the engine in non-Rubicon models.

Jeep Gladiator VM 3.0 general overview and current observations - Q&A encouraged IMG_2289.JPG


Jeep Gladiator VM 3.0 general overview and current observations - Q&A encouraged IMG_2290


Jeep Gladiator VM 3.0 general overview and current observations - Q&A encouraged IMG_2291


Jeep Gladiator VM 3.0 general overview and current observations - Q&A encouraged IMG_2292


Jeep Gladiator VM 3.0 general overview and current observations - Q&A encouraged IMG_2294


Jeep Gladiator VM 3.0 general overview and current observations - Q&A encouraged IMG_2295.JPG


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... In any case, that rectangular opening in your hood is interesting...almost as if that was "enough" to certify the engine in non-Rubicon models.
That black rectangle isn't an opening in the hood, it's just a black sticker over sheet metal. No idea why it's there. I see it is absent from your Rubicon hood.
Your WK2 Grand Cherokee has a sensible opening location that is about the cross sectional area I'd expect for an engine of this size. The only way I can conceptually come up with the JT 3.0 engine inhaling enough air at WOT is leaky edges on the plastic ducting and rubber boot.
 

Overland-2021

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This was the preceding 20' Sport S Max Tow on 35's, 4.10's, pulling my 28' Airstream last year. Of course, it did just fine, while screaming bloody-mudder, the whole way. With it's 3.0 EcoD, APPROPRIATELY GEARED, no more squeeze on the bottom.

IMG_0214.jpeg
Wow - is that the 28' Flying cloud?
How did you get the weight numbers to work out?
And it looks to ride level!
What kind of mods do you use?
I'm pulling a 16' Caravel and I'm at 90% Max capacity (600 Tongue - 1290/cargo - 6k trailer is my max).
I have to be really careful were I put things or I go to high on my tongue weight.
Pulls great though... and the rpms never go above 2300.
 
OP
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Wow - is that the 28' Flying cloud?
How did you get the weight numbers to work out?
And it looks to ride level!
What kind of mods do you use?
I'm pulling a 16' Caravel and I'm at 90% Max capacity (600 Tongue - 1290/cargo - 6k trailer is my max).
I have to be really careful were I put things or I go to high on my tongue weight.
Pulls great though... and the rpms never go above 2300.
International Serenity. The coach scales at 6200 + - typically, as I travel light, and don't carry water or waste whenever practical. The MAX TOW is theoretically rated at 7650 towing, with...IIRC....a 700 max tongue (number includes full bottles). I had access to scales so it took some finagling to get the tongue preload where I wanted it, which are 1200 bars with rear air bags there for about 200 lbs of relief. Tows as good as the WK2 Eco.
 

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Overland-2021

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Sure does look great.
Safe travels :)
 
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I picked-up this OE oil pan about the same time my JTUR was delivered, with the intent of using the pan as template. Glad I did, as it seems nearly impossible to get parts lately.

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So from my understanding, the Regearing seemed to have the biggest effect on temps and stopping the derrating. I dont plan to regear for a bit when I lift with tires, but I am highly debating those hood scoops (hate the look of them, but could be worthwhile). Also, I am considering the GDE tune, would the tune's lessened usage of the EGR help with those temps? I am new to diesel tuning so forgive me if this is a stupid question.

Second thought, would making the OEM rubicon vents functional help with the temps as well? I know from my Subaru tuning experience that creating a positive pressure under the hood from a hood scoop will create more turbulence under the hood and actually hurt heat extraction. So, maybe trimming holes into the OE vents to make them functional will help with removing heat more efficiently? Not sure how much that would help overall IATs though, seems intake routing and maybe a better CAC would be in order.

Something like this product.

https://valkyrieoffroad.com/shop/wrangler-jl-gladiator-jt-rubicon-hood-vents/
 

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Too bad the OP is not on here anymore. I thought he had some good info to share.
 

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So from my understanding, the Regearing seemed to have the biggest effect on temps and stopping the derrating. I dont plan to regear for a bit when I lift with tires, but I am highly debating those hood scoops (hate the look of them, but could be worthwhile). Also, I am considering the GDE tune, would the tune's lessened usage of the EGR help with those temps? I am new to diesel tuning so forgive me if this is a stupid question.

Second thought, would making the OEM rubicon vents functional help with the temps as well? I know from my Subaru tuning experience that creating a positive pressure under the hood from a hood scoop will create more turbulence under the hood and actually hurt heat extraction. So, maybe trimming holes into the OE vents to make them functional will help with removing heat more efficiently? Not sure how much that would help overall IATs though, seems intake routing and maybe a better CAC would be in order.

Something like this product.

https://valkyrieoffroad.com/shop/wrangler-jl-gladiator-jt-rubicon-hood-vents/
This^^^
If you want to tow anywhere near max capacity and have increased tire size appreciably regearing is a very good idea. I’m on 35ā€ tires and regeared to 4.56ā€˜s.
Mileage stayed the same as with 31’s and 3.73’s. EGT’s, oil temps, and coolant temps all came down noticeably when pulling my R-Pod 202 after regearing. Lots of folks on this forum would have you believe 4.56’s are way too low for 35’s. Not true in the least. That said, I do plan on attemtipng to improve oil cooling some too when some reasonable and tested options arise.
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