What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[WILDHOBO]

Got my Adam’s 1350 driveshafts in. With that out of the way, I finally got my RockHard 4x4 skids on after over a year. Decided to just do oil pan, belly pan, and gas tank. The resonator pan requires brackets that use a weld nut that is not on my frame.

How bad was the front? I replaced my rear a year ago, but have a new front in the shed. I don’t know what’s involved in removing it from the t-case. Any hints you’d care to share? Thanks.

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[JeepOfTheseus]

How bad was the front? I replaced my rear a year ago, but have a new front in the shed. I don’t know what’s involved in removing it from the t-case. Any hints you’d care to share? Thanks.

Wasn’t nearly as bad as I expected. NorthRidge and other videos had me thinking it would be a pain. I’ll take a pic of all the tools I used later - they all fit perfectly.

 

[Animal]

Installed the metalcloak rear away bar reenforcement bracket. Took a bit of modification to fit the brackets with the rokblokz already installed. Ended up notching the rokblokz bracket to make it all fit. First side took forever figuring out the bracket and notching, second side I had done in ten minutes in the dark ?

 

[RudeJeepin]

Reinstalled my OEM LED taillights since the Rugged Ridge flush mount LEDs want to burn themselves up and throwing codes.

Pics to follow

That's a bummer, I had my eye on those.
Any word from Rugged Ridge about a fix or replacement?

 

[Minty JL]

That's a bummer, I had my eye on those.
Any word from Rugged Ridge about a fix or replacement?

I didn't get around to emailing them today, possibly on Monday. I have to look up my email for the invoice

 

[WILDHOBO]

Wasn’t nearly as bad as I expected. NorthRidge and other videos had me thinking it would be a pain. I’ll take a pic of all the tools I used later - they all fit perfectly.

Does yours require that the yoke at the t case be replaced? Mine does, as it’s a new 1350 joint. The pinion side looks super easy as it’s just 4 bolts.

 

[TheDerb]

I added a $39 front camera. The kit comes with the screen, wiring, mounts, and the camera for that price, which is the deal of the year in my eyes. And a remote I'll never use for the screen, too! I've been looking for a camera that meets the criteria of A) Low Price, and B) easy to install. I am not sure that the front camera will be something I find valuable, and I have spent too much money on modifications that ended being a waste of money.

I found this camera for $39 on Amazon. Installation was a breeze- drilled a hole through the plug that goes through the fire wall, duct tape, and zip ties. I am well aware that not everyone is willing to "cheap out" on installation, but this is my "test it out" stage, and if I can't live without it, I'll graduate to tapping the bull bar and using hardware to install it.

Conceptually, though, it works great right now.

 

[KQL]

I added a $39 front camera. The kit comes with the screen, wiring, mounts, and the camera for that price, which is the deal of the year in my eyes. And a remote I'll never use for the screen, too! I've been looking for a camera that meets the criteria of A) Low Price, and B) easy to install. I am not sure that the front camera will be something I find valuable, and I have spent too much money on modifications that ended being a waste of money.

I found this camera for $39 on Amazon. Installation was a breeze- drilled a hole through the plug that goes through the fire wall, duct tape, and zip ties. I am well aware that not everyone is willing to "cheap out" on installation, but this is my "test it out" stage, and if I can't live without it, I'll graduate to tapping the bull bar and using hardware to install it.

Conceptually, though, it works great right now.

It appears you attached the monitor to the panel containing the passenger airbag…[insert worst case scenario]

 

[TheDerb]

It appears you attached the monitor to the panel containing the passenger airbag…[insert worst case scenario]

I didn't know this. Thanks for that.

Dang it. That's why duct tape and zip ties work so well in the beginning!

 

[KQL]

I didn't know this. Thanks for that.

Dang it. That's why duct tape and zip ties work so well in the beginning!

Yup, have seen it on the forum and in certain light can actually see the thinner line on the panel where they designed it to split

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...h-area-in-front-of-the-passenger.21628/page-9

 

[Green_Gladiator]

Value and purpose at $35 … I’m no longer as concerned with my work clothes in the Jeep as I normally would be.

 

[trust]

Winch install begins.... i found only one a ftermarket winch mounting bumper that claims to mount an 8274 and its aluminum and costs 7.925 gigabucks so im a bit short... plan going in was to enlarge the existing winch access I n the top side of the stock steel bumper. Not sure that will work as elegantly as id hoped....

So good sirs and madams assuming i need a new bumper i ask you, rectagular steel tube bumper? Round steel tube bumper. Li kely prerunner style, or try to make the stocker work even if i have to chop it up.

I tried to post a pic but met with utter failure. Said it wasnt a readable format...

Input please

 

[Billkowski]

installed the BedRug

Just ordered one of these things, thought it might be an interesting alternative to a bed liner. Encounter any issues with it so far?

 

[dmwphoto]

Just ordered one of these things, thought it might be an interesting alternative to a bed liner. Encounter any issues with it so far?

No issues at all. I did order the extra kit to use with the spray in liner. I do not have the bed rail system but I did run a die in the screw holes and purchased screws and used the to secure the top all the way around.
I can look and see what die it was andthe screw size if you need it.

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

Does yours require that the yoke at the t case be replaced? Mine does, as it’s a new 1350 joint. The pinion side looks super easy as it’s just 4 bolts.

Yes - since I got the 1350s, I had to replace 3 of them: front t-case, rear t-case, rear diff/pinion. All 3 required using a 3 jaw puller. The front t-case is obviously a small space to work in, but the puller I had fit (with just a couple inches to spare). Honestly the hardest part was removing the factory bolts because the front axle/t-case has to be engaged so that you can break free the bolts (technically it had to be in order to torque the nut on the yoke), but you will have to spin the axle throughout to get access to all the bolts.

The new ones that Adam's provided are 12 point 5/16", and they told me to torque to 18 ft/lbs - so I used my 1/4" drive wrench, but it was cutting it close...I only had a 3/8" drive socket, so I had to use an adapter which meant my wrench head was basically touching the t-case...I had to spin the bolt down all the way to snug first, and only then did my wrench slide in for final torquing. The diff/pinion side was a piece of cake since you're just removing 4 easily accessible bolts and reusing. I just had to use an extension to clear the joints.

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