What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[Hootbro]

How many miles?

32K miles. ZF recommends 50K-70K miles service intervals but I was not going to wait that long for the first service.

Took a sample from the drain and will be sending that off to Blackstone Labs this week.

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[Blade1668]

Quite a few, luckily mine hadn't broken but I added it b/c of all this.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/broken-tab-weld-on-mojave-frame-no-warranty.53002/
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...ay-bar-end-link-mounts-back-plate-weld.53262/
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/rear-sway-bar-reinforcement.56763/

Looks like something I might need to pull the welder out for. ? It wouldn't be much to weld up, and add more metal to it.

On with what I did. I ordered a ValvoMax quick twist oil drain few days ago "and started to do a oil change" today. Decided to put the change off a few days maybe. Anyone else "doing their own oil changes" if so Walmart carries 3 gal box oil from Valvoline. Not as convenient as the 5 qt jug but thought I'd share it.

Any pics of this shelf thingy?
Looking for ideas for mine.

Well, not a good picture due to being dark outside and the interior lights....

Update with photo in better lighting.

 

[Blade1668]

I’d been thinking about it for over a year. I always resisted because it will not get much use compared to the front, but I’ll be able to get myself out of tight spots alone more easily. I like the peace of mind.

A rear winch is great for that... especially running solo. I've got a few on receiver hitch mounts. I ran front and rear winches on my XJ especially when out by myself.

 

[Shift Happens]

Letting her breath…

this is beautiful

 

[KC_H]

No lights. There has been few threads on the subject. You have to search those out. There is a couple of methods but doing the full wire delete is the more tougher of them. There is no "A to Z" instruction sets. You just have to follow some common sense and dive into it and be mechanically inclined and not afraid. The method I used involved having to remove the fuse box, battery tray and air box to get access to the wiring for removal. Plus you need to fabricate a heavy gauge jumper to go between N1 and N3. Only difference I made from the diagram below is I ran the ground cable that went to the aux battery negative to a body ground rather than removed it as it saved me the hassle of having to hack it off the "current" sensor.

Below is a link I used to get a 6 gauge jumper cable made with 1/4" eyelet terminals installed. Cost me less than $10 to get made and delivered.

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/

So electrically this is the same as disconnecting and taping off the ESS negative cable (from the starter battery), moving the ESS positive to the starter positive and removing fuse #42...

 

[Hootbro]

So electrically this is the same as disconnecting and taping off the ESS negative cable (from the starter battery), moving the ESS positive to the starter positive and removing fuse #42...

You asking me as a question or making a statement?

 

[howeitsdone]

Finally finished the on-board air setup. The speed and convenience is something I didn't know that I was missing!

 

[chorky]

The LRA tank is proving to be useful every time I have to run to town. It was nice not having to worry about filling up until returning home.

Decent weather today and decided to change the transmission fluid and filter. From overnight sitting cold, got 5.5 quarts that came out. Followed the ZF guide sheet for the temperature level check and about 5.5 quarts went back in. Thought it was underfilled as when I did the same service on my 2020 Gladiator, 6.5 quarts came out.

Also did the transfer case fluid swap. Easy Peasy.

I don't suppose you happened to snap a photo of the NEW fluid before buttoning it all up? If you recall a discussion a while ago on the color of these ZF trans fluid.

 

[Hootbro]

I don't suppose you happened to snap a photo of the NEW fluid before buttoning it all up? If you recall a discussion a while ago on the color of these ZF trans fluid.

Sorry, no pics. It was somewhat dark green in color. Pretty close to what came out used when I drained it.

 

[mx5red]

That looks like an amazing day. Wish I was there.

Damage report. There may have been some previous dents but I had all painted over it. Any paint missing was new damage.
Got into both front drop brackets, I’ve hit those a few times before. Trans skid and fuel tank skid did their jobs. First time I’ve ever really hit the fuel tank skid or the ASFIR engine skid - that held up/bent a little, but I’m happy with it.
Got into both corners of rear bumper and right bed slider. Hit front bumper and track bar. Rode both diff skids.
Got rash on all four wheels, especially one I had ground up at Last Chance Canyon.
ABSOLUTELY ABUSED the TNT rock sliders. Held up well. At one point we even used them as a Hi-lift jack point ?
At the end of the day, aside from a little cosmetic stuff, nothing broke.

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

Got my FAD delete kit in. I opted for this because when you get the Dana chromoly axle shafts, you remove the plastic bushing. Another forum member properly noted concern of metal on metal friction, and sure enough there were gouges after <100 miles or so (I switched to 4H Auto to keep it engaged until this kit arrived).

Pretty straight-forward install: pull the shaft, pull the FAD, swap in the new larger coupler, reinstall the shaft. Stupid part is…Dana provides a gasket with notches for the alignment pins on the axle (which can’t be removed), but the block off plate has no such thing ?. I sanded the outside, used my angle grinder to cut some notches, and rattle canned it black with 4 coats.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Damage report. There may have been some previous dents but I had all painted over it. Any paint missing was new damage.
Got into both front drop brackets, I’ve hit those a few times before. Trans skid and fuel tank skid did their jobs. First time I’ve ever really hit the fuel tank skid or the ASFIR engine skid - that held up/bent a little, but I’m happy with it.
Got into both corners of rear bumper and right bed slider. Hit front bumper and track bar. Rode both diff skids.
Got rash on all four wheels, especially one I had ground up at Last Chance Canyon.
ABSOLUTELY ABUSED the TNT rock sliders. Held up well. At one point we even used them as a Hi-lift jack point ?
At the end of the day, aside from a little cosmetic stuff, nothing broke.

I love it. You’re not afraid to wheel it. Looks like all your protection worked perfectly. Bumpers get scratched and dented. Mine certainly are. It’s at least an annual touch up project.

 

[Zero_Accel]

I finally figured out a way to mount my cheap recovery boards! A Rough Country 15 inch Rubber Molle mount kit.

Gave me the flexibility that I wanted for mounting 2 or 4 traction boards to the truck, without being obnoxious and in the way when I need to remove them.

Before.

And after, with no boards, just bundle them together when not in use.

2 boards. They sit perfectly in the dead space under the tonneau.

And 4 boards, in a pinch. I can probably pull these tighter.

And they fit so perfectly, the first board sandwiches nicely between them that I don't even need to hold it in place when loading them up!

Bed is still pretty usable, and the cover still closes to help keep things where they belong. Callin it a win!

 

[WILDHOBO]

I swapped out the JKS 3” lift springs for Teraflex 3.5” HD (Outback) springs. I left the 1/2” spacer that was already installed. Spring compressors made this pretty easy. I was able to start and finish in 3 hours. I adjusted the drag link for the few degrees the wheel was off center. It’s clear that the old springs weren’t handling the weight added when I modified the bumper, and the heavier winch added last year. It was obvious when I realized it added just over 2” between the tire and fender flare.

I’ll need to lengthen the front control arms a hair to move the axle back forward a bit. But it was fine to finish for the day. It drives fine and tracks straight. I’m sure the track bar needs a tiny amount of lengthening, but I’ll do that and the control arms another day. The axle is not noticeably off center, but I’m sure it’s a 1/2” off or so. Sitting on the ground the springs aren’t that much longer, but they support the weight better.

The first two pictures are of the old springs, prior to and during removal.

If organic, free range, and cooked with some imagination, I’ll happily eat some crow meat for @Jems007. I initially resisted his suggestion that my front springs weren’t cutting the mustard anymore. He was correct

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

I keyed a new locking fuel cap. I decided that although it’s unlikely I’ll ever need this, it’s cheap insurance from thieves and vandal scumbags.

This is the part I bought for the diesel:

https://www.moparwholesaleparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-fuel-cap-82215418ab


This video from @Quadratec is extremely helpful. I Didn’t buy the cap from them, but I’ve spent thousands there over the years so sorry, not sorry.



You have to assemble the lock core yourself. Or you can pay a dealership probably something obscene to do it. The whole thing cost me 15 minutes and $70 plus shipping.

For you old blind f$@&ers like me, I used this magnifier so I could see the pins:

https://a.co/d/gEEadSx

You must assemble this correctly with the correct pins in the correct location so be organized and systematic like the video says. Once the core is inserted into the lock, it’s not coming out. If you’re dumb enough to somehow do this all incorrectly and then install this on your truck, you could lock yourself out of your own fuel tank. ?

My Chinet workbench.

The pins are labeled. Unlike the video I greased the pins and springs after figuring out which ones were needed but before the final assembly. All the pins are pretty rough, so more grease the merrier.

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