Not sure, this tune is for the ecodieselI can’t stand the way my JT shifts. Around town it will shift all the way to 8th gear doing 38 MPH and then I come to a hill and its back down to 3rd. Can I finally solve this problem using this device???
Sorry I'm no help on the kit. Mine are old ones, handed down.You know a good kit for a reasonable price? If it starts getting expensive, I have a Jeep shop that will probably do it pretty easily. I´d just like to keep the cost down.
My .02, I’d try the drift/punch method that the engine builder @Greg_L mentioned. Or first see if you get lucky with vice grips.You know a good kit for a reasonable price? If it starts getting expensive, I have a Jeep shop that will probably do it pretty easily. I´d just like to keep the cost down.
I am not understanding how the hammer and punch method works. It is broken off inside, so pounding on it with a hammer and punch doesn't pull it. So I think I'm not seeing in my mind what is being described there? I do see the other methods and think I understand them.All good suggestions so far....but before you try potentially destructive things like drilling and welding, try just tapping it little by little with a small punch and hammer.
I'm a former machinist and drag race engine builder. I've removed thousands of broken bolts from terrible places with just a punch, a hammer, and patience. The location of your broken bolt is actually pretty fortunate.
Now, if the simple method doesn't work....then go ahead and try the other methods. Sure drilling it out is possible and pretty easy in a driveway. But if you go off center or god-forbid break the bit...more headache.
I'd actually opt for the weld-a-nut option if you can. Those bolts aren't that tight and that should get the stub out very cleanly with no drill shavings or damage elsewhere.
Another drill-related option....use a reverse bit. You can drill it in reverse and that process very well could just pull the bolt out all on it's own.
The hammer and punch method is not intended to pound it into submission. What you do is use a small punch and lightly tap wherever you can get a good register onto the broken bolt. Tap in the direction of loosening the bolt and it will walk out. It doesn't take much force unless the bolt is bottomed out in the bore, or loc-tighted into place, which in your case I don't think it should be.I am not understanding how the hammer and punch method works. It is broken off inside, so pounding on it with a hammer and punch doesn't pull it. So I think I'm not seeing in my mind what is being described there? I do see the other methods and think I understand them.
I deeply appreciate the help! I am a 100% novice at this.
I did order an extractor kit where you use a punch then drill a pilot hole. You then insert the extractor, twist it in there and keep twisting (counter clockwise) and it should back it out.
I haven’t used that method, but that’s an awesome method. I love it. I definitely will do that next time I break one. Obviously I hope that’s in a very long time.The hammer and punch method is not intended to pound it into submission. What you do is use a small punch and lightly tap wherever you can get a good register onto the broken bolt. Tap in the direction of loosening the bolt and it will walk out. It doesn't take much force unless the bolt is bottomed out in the bore, or loc-tighted into place, which in your case I don't think it should be.
I'm talking little micro-turns but it does work.
Your prop shaft might, assuming your vessel is 500’ long+.My engine swap finally showed up today. Doing all the labor myself, wish me luck!
Will my factory axles handle 5,608,310 lb-ft of torque?
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