What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[Splenda]

First coat of spray on bedliner. I suck at this and have no patience.

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[ShadowsPapa]

So today starting at 10am and finishing at 6pm with an hour ir so for lunch me and my Uncle Rick replaced Sparkplugs , Coil Packs , and injectors. And the camsensor on the drivers bank 2, plus both seals on each bank for the high lift cam oil sensors. In the one pick you will see the O-ring lube. That stuff was amazing. Also cleaned the plenum out with Non non-chlorinated brake cleaner and also cleaned the throttle body out ,and the EGR valve got a very thorough cleaning as well. This was a thorough cleaning. the o-ring lube was also used on the 6 new plenum seals that I also installed. It was a big job . But I was amazed at the increased power and acceleration. Even holding a higher gear on several hills I travel alot so I know this wasnt placebo
In the pics you will several plugs and gap measurements. #6 was the worst and probably where I was getting an occasional rough idle when cold. They ranged in gap from 43-46 .
P.S. shoot out to @WILDHOBO & @Maximus Gladius for some links to the lift solenoid seals and both on several guidance tips.

I've got a few spark plug gap gauges like that, but I use a wire gauge these days. the electrodes can erode unevenly so that a flat gauge can show one number, but if the ground electrode is worn more at a point just opposite the center electrode, the gap the spark has to jump is actually more than than a flat gauge indicates. I'll use the flat gauge for new plugs to check them, but a wire gauge for used plugs.

In any case - looks like it was more than time for that work.

I don't understand watching some people work on things with o-rings and they don't bother with a lube - then wonder why there's leaks or it gets cut or rolled or whatever.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

They do not recommend those old school coin gapping tools for iridium plugs to spread the gap as the drag can take the iridium coating off the tips.

Something like this tool is generally recommended to pry up the side electrode without scraping on the center electrode tip.

I never used the gap check tool to change the gap even 50 years ago. I've got gap tools that have a notch that goes over the side of the ground electrode to bend it and put NO pressure on the center electrode at all.
Never use a tool to set the gap that "wedges" between the center and ground electrode. That goes back years and I bet it's more important today than ever.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I referenced this a little and where I learned about the washers, but otherwise it was straight forward enough that i just went slow and took plenty of pictures along the way to know how to reroute the harness.




I used this to figure out how the air bag connectors

I never really understood the desire for those paddles until I took to some steep trails this weekend.
Transmission in manual mode, kicked it into 3rd or 4th and let it handle my descents on the other side, but then wanting to adjust to a different gear........ while steering through the washouts and ruts.......... now I think I "get it".

 

[RubiNewbCB]

Finally was able to install the @Metalcloak Draglink Flip kit, TieRod bar, and their Billet Stabilizer mount. Got it aligned within a Frog's hair.

 

[RubiNewbCB]

Test drove it after tightening everything up, greased the balljoints. Drives straight as an arrow doesn't pull when you brake, and adjusted the draglink for the steering wheel so it's nice and straight too. Couldn't be happier at the moment, and the Lions won too!

 

[BlueScapegoat]

Radio works. Lights work. Mirror works.

Rear Antirock works, just a bit stiffer than I'd like. Tbf I didn't test the rig fully loaded but it does seem to be limiting my articulation in the rear. Maybe I should have gone with the standard antirock and not the HD. I think the HD Antirock in conjunction with the AEV HD coils are just a bit too much off road.

Had to lose the front track bar brace entirely, coil was still hitting it at stuff. I'm conflicted on it. I know it's because I pushed the axle forward but it's positioned about as well as it can be for lock to lock clearance when stuffed so I'll probably either just run without the brace and if I run into problems cut and replace the track bar bracket entirely, or maybe hack the back side off of a brace and bolt it in but weld the vertical cut. That's the way I'm leaning. It won't be as stiff, but it'll help.

Just drove a couple hundred miles though and this Jeep drives absolutely fantastically for having 40s. Shit, it drives fantastically compared to a stock Jeep. It's going to be a very easy drive 1400 miles to Moab on Thursday.

 

[Stan H]

Wow, you did a lot. Those sensor seals seep oil on both my JL and JT. The JL will get new ones for the second time. Looks like a bad design somehow.

How many miles do you have on yours?

Great pics!

I dont think it is the design of those seals that is the problem they literally were baked hard. The new ones was supple the old ones was stiff hard like they was fried. The sensor seal on the bank one that racket was in the way had to remove the coil pack first then lift it up and turn it around and etc to get past that bracket. The seal was so hardened I had to grab with pliers and pull round and round till it popped out.

 

[Stan H]

I never really understood the desire for those paddles until I took to some steep trails this weekend.
Transmission in manual mode, kicked it into 3rd or 4th and let it handle my descents on the other side, but then wanting to adjust to a different gear........ while steering through the washouts and ruts.......... now I think I "get it".

I always have liked them .. but never installed due to I think the radio volume and channel buttons disappear . Think these go in those spots.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I dont think it is the design of those seals that is the problem they literally were baked hard. The new ones was supple the old ones was stiff hard like they was fried. The sensor seal on the bank one that racket was in the way had to remove the coil pack first then lift it up and turn it around and etc to get past that bracket. The seal was so hardened I had to grab with pliers and pull round and round till it popped out.

That sort of confirms my wonderings - they got hard with age, heat, oil.
I wonder if a different material would work - there are different o-ring materials for different uses. Maybe Jeep needs to consider some other materials.

 

[Stan H]

That sort of confirms my wonderings - they got hard with age, heat, oil.
I wonder if a different material would work - there are different o-ring materials for different uses. Maybe Jeep needs to consider some other materials.

As crazy as this sounds . The plenum seals although I replaced with new ones . They were crushed down but amazingly they was still soft and wiggly . That rubber for those sensor seals was rubber. Maybe they should consider a type of silicone rubber
I ordered Mopar brand so they are unfortunately the same rubber going back in . But both was weeping.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

As crazy as this sounds . The plenum seals although I replaced with new ones . They were crushed down but amazingly they was still soft and wiggly . That rubber for those sensor seals was rubber. Maybe they should consider a type of silicone rubber
I ordered Mopar brand so they are unfortunately the same rubber going back in . But both was weeping.

Still, if I recall, you aren't sitting at 50,000 miles, so............

 

[Stan H]

Still, if I recall, you aren't sitting at 50,000 miles, so............

137k+ but I was just impressed at the silicone . That stuff must last forever.
I remember my wife had these silicon food pan liners you could bake on in the oven. Never hurt em at all.

 

[WILDHOBO]

So today starting at 10am and finishing at 6pm with an hour ir so for lunch me and my Uncle Rick replaced Sparkplugs , Coil Packs , and injectors. And the camsensor on the drivers bank 2, plus both seals on each bank for the high lift cam oil sensors. In the one pick you will see the O-ring lube. That stuff was amazing. Also cleaned the plenum out with Non non-chlorinated brake cleaner and also cleaned the throttle body out ,and the EGR valve got a very thorough cleaning as well. This was a thorough cleaning. the o-ring lube was also used on the 6 new plenum seals that I also installed. It was a big job . But I was amazed at the increased power and acceleration. Even holding a higher gear on several hills I travel alot so I know this wasnt placebo
In the pics you will several plugs and gap measurements. #6 was the worst and probably where I was getting an occasional rough idle when cold. They ranged in gap from 43-46 .
P.S. shoot out to @WILDHOBO & @Maximus Gladius for some links to the lift solenoid seals and both on several guidance tips.

Way more thorough than my job. I didn’t do the fuel system at all. But I did it in the winter without a garage, so you may have inspired me to take it apart again. What’s the black tool with the power switch.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Still, if I recall, you aren't sitting at 50,000 miles, so............

My seals were leaving way before 50k. I replaced both seals in the 40’s I think and I swear they’re leaking again.

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