What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[Proximo]

Fixed my driver's door electrical problem

1 split and 3 completely seperate

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[Stan H]

Fixed my driver's door electrical problem

1 split and 3 completely seperate

Okay I got the same thing going on . So how did you get that Nylon sheath off those wires ?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Fixed my driver's door electrical problem

1 split and 3 completely seperate

Solderless connectors...........

When repairing such wires, I typically put in lengths of high-flex silicone wires - high strand count, extremely flexible. It's like welding cable in miniature.

Copper work-hardens. The more it flexes in an area, the harder it gets until it eventually breaks. The key is making sure there's no stiff area and the flex can be distributed along the length of the wire. Copper wires break at joints, terminations and so on, or in these cases, where the bundle folds and flexes inside the sleeve.

 

[Proximo]

Okay I got the same thing going on . So how did you get that Nylon sheath off those wires ?

Nylon sheath, as in the strap?
I opened door completely to create room to work. Popped the door panel mostly off, to get the wire bundle free. Once I moved the strap up or down to find broken wires, I was able to use wire snips on the threads holding the nylon strap together. I think that strap stretches out over time and the wires inside are too short to handle the extra travel. To answer your question, the strap has a sewn seam that can be carefully separated.

 

[Joosed]

Got the steps, and mud flaps installed.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Maybe worth noting that the local off road shop told me they recently made the switch from recommending and installing Dana/Spicer to Revolution.

I was super happy with the parts Revolution sent. And there were more than enough shims. We got it as close to perfect as I can imagine. Only two tries. My 12ton HF press didn’t do it. Had to go to a shop to borrow the 20. It’s been demoted to only being used for the small press brake. The next time I do gears I’ll buy an actual good press. We did the final carrier bolt torque in the housing. It worked great that way. My very large bench vise wouldn’t hold it. And I don’t trust that press.

I’ve got a super small leak somewhere on my rear. It was redone a year ago professionally. Meaning new bearings, shims, seals, etc. I’m hoping it’s just the cover, as I’m going to AZ on Thursday for some rock crawling. So I guess I’m removing the skid and doing a fluid change for inspection purposes today. I replaced a couple RSE step slider rivets today as well. I sheared them off on the lane creek squeeze in September.

 

[TexasAg77]

No pics, but installed the Weather Tech mud flaps this afternoon... Took about 1-1/2 hours to do it. Once I did one, the other 3 went pretty dang straight forward. Only issue I had was even with my small hands, 2 of the 3 bolts are not the easiest to get the nuts on. Once on, it's a snap... Looks good and the bride likes the look too. Win-Win for me.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Details and pictures later - but the bundle of wires wildhobo helped run along the frame into the engine bay is all terminated and tested out.
I can trigger the winch solenoid (aux 3) to provide power to the rear anderson connectors.
aux 4 and I have live bumper backup lights without being in reverse or running
Aux 2 and I have power to the USB charging ports in the bed and eventually for a 12v outlet in the bed as well.

I had to make a bracket to raise the 50 amp breaker up and out of the way and those 8 gauge wires take a lot of space and don't flex a lot once the protection is on the wires.

the wire here coming from the right to the breaker comes from the winch side of the disconnect solenoid. so powering the solenoid powers the winch in front, and the Anderson connector in the bed that will power my trailer winch.

 

[3TDJEEP]

Mounted a DJI Action 5 Pro camera to the underside of my Stealth Light Bar. Wired it to a power supply so it doesn't drain its battery when the ignition is off.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

Mounted a DJI Action 5 Pro camera to the underside of my Stealth Light Bar. Wired it to a power supply so it doesn't drain its battery when the ignition is on.

Who makes that light bar and do you get any backwash from the windshield once it’s on?

 

[3TDJEEP]

Who makes that light bar and do you get any backwash from the windshield once it’s on?

It seals to the glass pretty well so no backwash. It's made and sold by Quadratec.

https://www.quadratec.com/p/quadrat...ch-stealth-light-bar-wrangler-jl-gladiator-jt

 

[WILDHOBO]

Details and pictures later - but the bundle of wires wildhobo helped run along the frame into the engine bay is all terminated and tested out.
I can trigger the winch solenoid (aux 3) to provide power to the rear anderson connectors.
aux 4 and I have live bumper backup lights without being in reverse or running
Aux 2 and I have power to the USB charging ports in the bed and eventually for a 12v outlet in the bed as well.

I had to make a bracket to raise the 50 amp breaker up and out of the way and those 8 gauge wires take a lot of space and don't flex a lot once the protection is on the wires.

the wire here coming from the right to the breaker comes from the winch side of the disconnect solenoid. so powering the solenoid powers the winch in front, and the Anderson connector in the bed that will power my trailer winch.

That’s perfect. So much control. I’m doing something similar for my rear receiver mount 5,500 warn winch. I’ve got a pigtail under the hood that’s also connected to my main winch solenoid output. Also aux 3 for those. I obviously won’t run two winches simultaneously. That’s be too much for the solenoid almost certainly.

Edit: your setup makes me want to run the Anderson to the rear. Running 20’ of winch cable to use that winch is annoying. But the few times I’ve used it, it does work well.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Just did the thing I was dreading, but needed to do before driving it to phoenix for rock crawling on Thursday morning. Trails Friday through Sunday.

I had some small occasional drops from the rear diff I’d been avoiding looking at. I assumed pinion seal, but hoped cover leak. Couldn’t tell without pulling the skid. Pinion. Shit. When I found that on my front the pinion gear was also toast. Lots of debris in the housing. I pulled drained it, then pulled the cover, and thankfully there’s no debris in the rear. So screw it. I’m not pulling the carrier this week. I’m just refilling it and I’ll bring a quart in case it starts leaking worse. Gears look great I think. They have 71k miles on them. I’m a bit pissed that I paid to have bearings and seals done (full master install kit) in like November 2024, and I’ve already lost the pinion seal. Jesus. But for this trip, new fluid and it’ll be fine. Anyone have ideas as to why I’d lose a seal in so few miles? I just looked it up, and it was only about 10k miles since the bearing, seal, and shim job.

 

[ChrisNLA]

Installed a Metalcloak drag link. OEM one was shot at 35K miles on 33s

Was relatively easy. Ball joint separator press and a 3 pound hammer made getting it off the pitman arm not too horrible. Being a southern truck helps.

Front end feels way mo betta.

 

[Gene26]

I ordered an RHO today and told my daughter she could have my gladiator when it arrives. We are both very excited. So it just gets to park on the street instead of in the driveway..

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