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What do you use your JSCAN for?

ShadowsPapa

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Can someone testy disconnecting the FAD in 4low for 2low?

Also I am looking through the app, probably no way to link highbeams to factory sux switch?
Not sure why you'd want high beams linked to an aux switch..............
But in any case, that's not going to be possible via any software as it's part of the BCM system and hard-wired in. For you to be able to use jscan to change things it must be a factory option. There's nothing wired to the aux switches - you have to wire things manually. And the headlights are basically a "sealed" system - meaning they don't touch or aren't connected to anything outside of the normal headlight controls.

What would be the point of disconnecting the FAD in 4wd - other than to maybe break something?
Just curious.
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So newb question. Can you leave everything plugged in? Or just the extension?
 

ShadowsPapa

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So newb question. Can you leave everything plugged in? Or just the extension?
Just leave the extension in place. You need to remove the bypass cable.
But with the extensions it takes seconds, literally. It's very easy with 'em.
If you want to MONITOR, say you want to watch for misfires, read codes, NOT make changes, you can simply plug the Bluetooth OBD connector to the normal OBD port.
 

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Not sure why you'd want high beams linked to an aux switch..............
But in any case, that's not going to be possible via any software as it's part of the BCM system and hard-wired in. For you to be able to use jscan to change things it must be a factory option. There's nothing wired to the aux switches - you have to wire things manually. And the headlights are basically a "sealed" system - meaning they don't touch or aren't connected to anything outside of the normal headlight controls.

What would be the point of disconnecting the FAD in 4wd - other than to maybe break something?
Just curious.
1. To wire aux lights to shut off when highbeams go off.

2.and 2 low for backing a tandem boat trailer around tight quarters with the light clutch. With that disconnected and an open diff there isn’t really anything to break.

The FAD might be the same and have to put a switch in the wire itself and not just use the computer?
 

ShadowsPapa

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1. To wire aux lights to shut off when highbeams go off.

2.and 2 low for backing a tandem boat trailer around tight quarters with the light clutch. With that disconnected and an open diff there isn’t really anything to break.

The FAD might be the same and have to put a switch in the wire itself and not just use the computer?
Neither will be "selectable" in the system. You'll have to find ways manually.

I sure get #2 - reverse on sticks is almost always geared way too high, IMO. It's not for races, it's for backing, parking, getting backed into tight spots, backing a boat or camper, whatever and yet R is typically geared about like 2 or 3 (my T5 has a reverse so darned high it's stupid)
If the transfer case in these is an open differential, when in 4wd with FAD disconnected you'll simply spin the differential in the transfer case.
These have a safety switch setup so that the transfer case can't engage unless or until the FAD is connected.
When you put things in 4wd the fad locks the right axle first, then the transfer case shifts. It won't allow the t-case shift until the FAD is locked. The reverse is true when moving to 2wd from 4wd. When you shift to 2wd, the transfer case must shift first before the FAD will disconnect or unlock the right axle.

For the high beams / aux lights here's what you might consider - a relay that's powered by the high beam signal. High beams off, aux lights shut off via relay.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/how-to-manually-control-the-fad.25352/page-2


This seems to indicate that it can be done by Tazer. So maybe just the same with JScan?
jscan can only do things the factory allowed - or have selections for. Hardware like the tazer manipulates things that the factory doesn't have settings for.
Not saying "impossible" - just saying very unlikely as jscan can only do what is already in the system as a "menu choice" or software choice, and then be disconnected.
 

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Can speedometer reading be changed with Scan?
 

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Can speedometer reading be changed with Scan?
Not sure what you mean by "speedometer reading changed"......... if the speedometer is off it usually means the tire size setting is incorrect. If you've changed tire sizes, then you need to put in the new/corrected tire diameter and then the speedometer will read correctly. Jscan will do that.
My advice is use an independent GPS or a GPS app on a phone NOT plugged into the Jeep and drive several miles. Compare the odometer reading with how many miles and tenths of a mile the GPS app or GPS device says you've done. IF it's off, adjust the tire size setting in the truck again using jscan.
Mine is right-on. I used my Garmin GPS device and set it to new trip with 0 miles, I reset my JT's trip meter on the dash to 0 and used an app on my phone - that tracks how far you've driven.
I then drove a number of miles and when I got home I compared. After 2 tries my cluster/odometer matched my Garmin GPS and my phone app to the tenth of a mile.
 

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For the high beams / aux lights here's what you might consider - a relay that's powered by the high beam signal. High beams off, aux lights shut off via relay.
This.

I've done this on a couple of cars back in the days of incandescent bulbs. Always with a relay because I would run 90 watt H3 bulbs in my olde schoole Hella driving lights.

If the aux lights he wants to install are not too powerful (~40 watts ea) he can probably wire them right into the high beams directly. At that point, both the high beam and the driving light won't be drawing much more than the regular incandescent high beams.

Obviously you would need to do the math on your specific light. But if the lights aren't huge, you might be able to get away without a relay.
 

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I actually did a youtube video on my channel about JSCan back in May. I'll give you the link. It's 15 minutes long, so you can skip around if you like.

Youtube link:
I’m a little behind on YouTube. My newest “pro tip” is playback speed. I change it to maybe 1.5-1.75. Strange at first but I get used to it. I then play normal when I don’t want to miss what they are saying or I’m calling instructions.

1.75 etc is great for the “should you regear” or “should you get 37s” videos where people ramble on for 18 minutes.
 

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Oh sweet, thanks. This will be a big help.

Edit: Oh wait, I’m subscribed to you and didn’t realize you were on the forum. Love your videos man. Happy Holidays!
Thanks brother! I started that channel to share trail videos with friends and now it's turned into a trail, offroad, issues, informative, and help channel. I throw in a few other things too. But it's the positivity and the energy I get when I meet other jeepers that I love. Thanks again!
 

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I’m a little behind on YouTube. My newest “pro tip” is playback speed. I change it to maybe 1.5-1.75. Strange at first but I get used to it. I then play normal when I don’t want to miss what they are saying or I’m calling instructions.

1.75 etc is great for the “should you regear” or “should you get 37s” videos where people ramble on for 18 minutes.
Yes. Sometimes on my videos I woll get a little rambling. But, if someone is telling me something I figure there might be someone out there that want to hear it. So, I decided not to edit a lot of the talking out in some videos. But I have had someone talking where they go off the deep end and I was like huh. Hahahaha!!!
 

ShadowsPapa

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Yes. Sometimes on my videos I woll get a little rambling. But, if someone is telling me something I figure there might be someone out there that want to hear it. So, I decided not to edit a lot of the talking out in some videos. But I have had someone talking where they go off the deep end and I was like huh. Hahahaha!!!
I liked your "steering wander/pitman nut" video as it was short, sweet, to the point - and a very good shot of the pitman nut itself with you showing clearly how bloody dangerously loose it was.

THAT is the sort of video I will actually watch. Give me the facts in the first minutes. I have very severe ADHD so while I ramble on myself, but any video had better get to the point quickly or I'm gone - my attention lasts only SECONDS in some cases, and as was pointed out in a seminar at work one weekend, someone explaining something to me needs to skip to the bottom line in the first couple of sentences.

(A movie had better have non-stop action or I'm outta there - I've watched each of the Chris Pine Star Trek movies multiple times because they are action beginning to end)
 

tysongladiator

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I liked your "steering wander/pitman nut" video as it was short, sweet, to the point - and a very good shot of the pitman nut itself with you showing clearly how bloody dangerously loose it was.

THAT is the sort of video I will actually watch. Give me the facts in the first minutes. I have very severe ADHD so while I ramble on myself, but any video had better get to the point quickly or I'm gone - my attention lasts only SECONDS in some cases, and as was pointed out in a seminar at work one weekend, someone explaining something to me needs to skip to the bottom line in the first couple of sentences.

(A movie had better have non-stop action or I'm outta there - I've watched each of the Chris Pine Star Trek movies multiple times because they are action beginning to end)
I agree with you. I try to make the informative videos short. The wheeling videos can get a little long. But the informative I try to keep short. Like you, I'll also tune out afterwhile. I retired from the Army 3 months ago. My senior leaders would start talking and in the back of my mind i'm thinking, "what do you want me to do?"

I do appreciate you telling me that you like them short and sweet and to the point. I started this video with friends to show off offroading videos and it's turned into something else. So now I'm constantly trying to improve it. So, thank you!
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