What should I know about the 3.0

[Jefe1018]

Know that it has tons of torque and fuel economy is superb.

I’m at 25,000 miles, 0 issues. That doesn’t mean I’ll never have an issue, just that not every single ecodiesel blows up within 1,000 miles and spends months in the shop.

Follow the maintenance schedule, change you fuel filter often, consider an additive such as hot shots and enjoy your Jeep.

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[CreepyJeepy]

That 3.0 you just purchased is a SOLID motor. There have been a few very frustrating points since it's launch... Including 2 recalls (make sure you them them addressed) (DEF Software Update + CP4 Fuel pump replacement.) The pump replacement is new, and will take some time to get sorted.

I drove both before selecting the diesel... The diesel is SIGNIFICANTLY better at towing, and will likely last as long if not longer than the 3.6 (the 3.6 has its own valve train issues)...

The quality of engineering of the Gen3 EcoDiesel is top notch, despite what Timoleon 87' pile-o-junk euro car experience was.

FYI I towed my 3250lb RPOD 179 camper with two Jeep Gladiators in Colorado in the mountains.

Once learned slow down (just a smidge) and stay out of high RPMs (which is what I had been doing with my Tacoma 4.0 for years towing) the difference was clear as day.

The reason I went with the ecodiesel is because of this....

* The Ecodiesel gladiator averaged 16.7mpg from Denver to Leadville (Mopar 2" lift, 35" tires 3.73 gears)

* The Pentastar gladiator averaged 8.9mpg from Denver to Leadville (Mopar 2" lift, 35" tires 4.10 gears )

(Yes you burn a lot more DEF while towing, so you need to calculate that and the higher cost of oil changes into your equations)....

While the Pentastar has a higher 'total max' that has nothing to do with the quality while towing... That has everything to due with it's a lighter vehicle, and doesn't build as much heat as the diesel because you do not have forced induction...

The Ecodiesel (stock 3.73 gears) is efficient, quiet, and loaded with low end torque.

The Pentastar on 35" tires with stock gearing towing was always near 4-6k RPM screaming at you, chugging gas....

If you tow a reasonable trailer the Ecodiesel always wins.... Always.

If you are not towing, and not loading your jeep up with big tires, and lots of weight, the 3.6 Wins...

 

[fourfa]

Here’s something fun regarding running costs. I made a nerd spreadsheet of additional costs vs the gas motor

There are MANY assumptions built in here, so rather than argue about these particular numbers, you should first make your own spreadsheet. Some of these are: Pennzoil Euro 5W-40, OE filters at the new recommended intervals, Costco BlueDEF, using Hotshot EDT at their recommended 1oz/25gal (and buying in gallon bulk), and the MPG and DEF usage I personally have seen so far (I don’t tow).

The fun thing here, I think, is the relative magnitudes. If you find deals on quality oil, DEF, oil and fuel filters, snap them up.

[Also interesting for me personally, with my particular build, with my local fuel prices, is that even with these additional per-mile costs, and the additional one-time costs vs the gas truck I would have bought otherwise, the overall cost per mile still comes out lower on my diesel. Change any of those variables and the conclusion might change, so I won’t bother showing those numbers here.]

 

[Stuntman Mike]

I was somehow (not completely) aware of the issues the EcoDiesel has.

And I am definitely not a diesel fan.

But looking at the characteristics of the Pentastar (neglectable torque, max. power at arround 6000 rpm) it was quite clear that this engine is not really fitting to the Gladiators appearance.

Therefore it was clear to me which engine to chose and up to now I am not regretting that choice.

MPG, towing capacity and driving characteristic is amazing.

If I would have the possibility to delete DEF and DPF, I would be one of the happiest men in the world ...

And congratulations to you new JTD.

 

[Jteakus]

You can figure not having to regear for any tire under a 40 into cost savings since we are talking about extra expenses.

 

[Beungood]

1. Frequent short trips where oil doesn’t get hot enough to burn off fuel/moisture are bad if done a lot.
2. Oil and Fuel filter are required every oil change post the cp4 recall.
3. Avoid Fuel over B5 (it will shorten oil/fuel filter life)
4. Remember to fill the DEF tank before towing/long trips.
5. Do not use Amazon cheapo filters. Find OEM. (Low oil pressure, filters getting sucked through air box have been reported)
6. Use a high quality Euro Diesel oil that meets the required specs. ‘Pensoil Euro Platinum 5-40) shows decent sheer resistance.
7. Going beyond 7k shows oil breakdown, (Ecodiesel Gen3 is hard on oil)
8. GDE tune is awesome, but some have reported higher fuel content in their oil analysis. I have avoided it for that reason alone, but likely will in the future due to the EGR tuning.
9. The ecodiesel has a real ZF transmission. It’s Solid compared to the 3.6 (Which is also pretty good ( but it’s not a real ZF))
10. Love it, they are awesome

not a real ZF?

 

[Jteakus]

I'll also add this, I ordered both my JL diesel and JT diesel so I was able to get them without the active cruise control and park assist which saved quite a bit of coin. I figure those options almost paid for the diesel and the fuel economy covered the rest of the expense quickly.

 

[Almost]

I am not so concerned about where it is made. I am concerned about the design and quality of the manufacture. That VM motor I had in the Alpha, was pure engineering junk. Cast iron jugs and aluminum heads at the compression levels of that diesel were where they messed up. I was buying heads at a rate of 3 a year (individual heads for each cylinder) for 2 years.

The motor is perfectly fine. It uses a bed plate design and same block is used for boats. There is a guy using the same motor to deliver airstream trailers in a 1500 and has racked up over 400K on multiple motors.

MR 506 SH3 - VM Motori

 

[Rusty PW]

Holeshot, what year JT you have?

 

[PnwGladiatorBuild]

I have 39K issue free miles on the diesel and I loved everyone of them. Lots of torque and 23mpg on a 2" lift with 37s.

I feel like a lot of the "hate" for the diesel just comes from people that didn't justify the cost so they look for any excuses to hate on it. It does have "issues" but they are known and manageable.

My point is talk to the diesel owners and ask them, not the 3.6 guys who nerd out on stats to help them feel better about their torque less trucks JK JK love you guys too

 

[rharr]

Lots of interesting info added... I like mine. It's been good to me so far. You build enough of one thing there will be issues with a select few. Goes for gas motors and oil burners.

I would just mention in my opinion, the ecoD is a better suited travel/trip motor, it likes to just chug along. I don't think the EcoD with all it's EPA stuff is ideal for a short commute daily driver.

I got mine for longer trips that give it time to heat up and all the systems to run as intended.
I have a crappy civic for short trips and grocery getting.

 

[CreepyJeepy]

not a real ZF?

I have read (and if I am incorrect please correct me) that it is a TorqueFlite design / clone but not built by ZF. Thus a ZF clone is what I have read.

 

[Holeshot]

That makes people talk heh?

I'll try to adress every question lol

My JTRD is a 2022, bought used at 19500 km. I have an appointment on wednesday for the pump recall already.

It has a metalcloak true dual rate 3.5, with 1" spacers added in the front to compensate the heavy engine. It now rides like a cadillac. Hands down the better driving jeep i've had. In the winter It runs on studded 35" nokian tires, and 37" nitto trail grapplers in the summer. Warn winch in the stock bumper, and home made step/sliders using the oem rails. So not an heavy jeep by any means.

I tow occasionnaly, mostly in the winter, my enclosed 7x14, with my snowmobile in it. Never going very far.

Other than that I buy fire woods and bring it home by 3 cords trips, short distances again.

I do 70km's a day to go to work, and i'm always on the road. I live in a small town, that could be a village, so im always going to the next bigger cities around.

This jeep is my 5th. I'va had a 97 TJ 4 banger on 33's, then a 2012 jk on 37's and 4.88's, 2015 jku same setup but automatic , 2021 3.6 JT on 37's and 5.13's (millage got worse than 4.10, and had issues with install quality). So im not gonna regear this one unless I really feel the need ( still got the stock 4.10's of the gas JT on the shelves) And if I do it will be a in specialized 4x4 shop. Had the previous one done at the dealer, thinking I should have no issues, and got seals leak, loose pinion bearing, noise.. so now they are dealing with their own crap parked in the lot ?

If have seen a video on youtube of a performance shop recommanding to change the thermostat for a 190, stock is 210 I believe. To help keep it cooler after a tune. I understand for warmer climate down south, but I feel like it would be too cold for our winters ? we can see down to -40°C sometimes.

Good point on the fuel additive. Actually did not think about this one. This is my first diesel. I heard people talk about how dry nowadays fuel is.

The shop I am looking to, is using mrtuning I believe, and offer full custom exhaust.

And I know people owning ecoD rams for many years without issues with the right treatment so im not too worried.

 

[Holeshot]

I have read (and if I am incorrect please correct me) that it is a TorqueFlite design / clone but not built by ZF. Thus a ZF clone is what I have read.

The 850RE found in the gas jeep is build by FCA, the 8hp75 in the 5.7 rams and diesels is build in germany by ZF.

 

[Rusty PW]

On the passenger side. There is an exhaust bracket that may rub on the wiring harness. If that happens. You can get a shit load of CELs. The 21's had this problem. But haven't heard of the 22's or 23's having it.

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