where are you powering the winch?

[eaglerugby04]

You can probably tell I’m going a bit stir crazy cooped up in the house. I spent way too much time writing this up!

Write ups like this are much appreciate. I just wish the forum had a wiki or intstructional section to save things like this. Can't tell you how many times I am looking for something I saw 3 months ago that happend to be hidden in on of the mega threads, and completly not related to the topic I am looking for at that..

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[rickrogan]

I did an install using the Warn Power Interrupt a couple of weeks ago and had some time today to take a reasonable pic and do some annotation to show the wiring for an install that uses the factory AUX switches. Hope that it helps someone else.

You'll notice that this install has the solenoid ground going to the frame rather than the battery (lower left). I originally had that ground going to the battery and then realized that I should be able to clean up the install a little by grounding the solenoid to the frame and avoiding a wire running across the battery.

The homemade bracket is just fashioned from an aluminum sheet using tin snips. A person with actual metal working skills could do a lot better.

(And yes, I need to get another bolt into the BadgeGlow board.

 

[361Sean]

In the end I did somthing similar. I went with a summit solonoid and power that with aux3. Aux4 powers some lights. I'll snap some pics someday soon.

I'm clueless as to what that badgeglow board is.

 

[rickrogan]

It's a handy thingy that makes it cleaner to attach stuff to your Aux switches

https://badgeglow.com/product/simpleaux/

 

[whiteglad]

Depending on your particular winch, it can draw 300-400 amps or more at full load. I simply removed the + lead and insulated it, secured it near the battery. If I need the winch, it can be installed to the + battery terminal quickly.

 

[361Sean]

They have been very slow to respond. Still awaiting any info on a discount. Inquired May 14.

Depending on your particular winch, it can draw 300-400 amps or more at full load. I simply removed the + lead and insulated it, secured it near the battery. If I need the winch, it can be installed to the + battery terminal quickly.

That was going to be my move but for 30 something dollars in parts I was able to utilise the aux switches. I paid for them might as well use them.

 

[eaglerugby04]

That was going to be my move but for 30 something dollars in parts I was able to utilise the aux switches. I paid for them might as well use them.

Which parts did you end up going with?

 

[Chadh1972]

Write ups like this are much appreciate. I just wish the forum had a wiki or intstructional section to save things like this. Can't tell you how many times I am looking for something I saw 3 months ago that happend to be hidden in on of the mega threads, and completly not related to the topic I am looking for at that..

I agree that this info is great. As for finding it later, I created a pages document where I cut and paste links to, with a description of the link. It helps me find good info I once came across.

 

[361Sean]

Here you go. $30 in parts. You will need:
1 - generic Ford starter relay
2 - battery cable lugs (connects to the two large terminals on the relay)
Heat shrink tubing (seals and insulates the large relay connections)
14ga wire (length from Aux 3/4 wire next to the battery or to dash if separate switch) blue in diagram

Remove the negative battery connection, then the positive at the battery.

Mount the relay as close to the battery as possible (note which of the large terminals is for battery and which is for starter (winch)). Measure the length of cable require to reach from the large battery terminal on the relay to the battery. Ensure you consider safe routing and protection of this cable as it will be hot all the time. Cut this length from the red (positive) cable that runs from the winch to the positive battery terminal, measuring from the battery connection terminal end. Slide a 1 1/2” piece of heat shrink tubing over the cut end, properly attach one of the two lugs to the end and shrink the tubing to protect and insulate the lug connection (ensure the tubing does not cover the hole in the lug). Attach the lug to the large battery stud on the relay and then to the battery positive terminal (use the positive battery terminal mounting method provided with your winch).

Measure the remaining positive cable from the winch to the other large terminal on the relay, ensuring you route it safely through the engine compartment, avoiding sharp edges and objects and insulating, protecting the cable as required (this cable will only be hot when the Aux or separate switch is activated). Attach the other lug with heat shrink as described above and firmly connect it to the relay.

If you have the Aux switches, use either 3 or 4, the lug/heat shrink kit in the glove box and a length of 14ga wire to connect the small “S” terminal on the relay to the orange/pink (Aux 3) or dark blue/pink (Aux 4) wire next to the battery. If you don’t have Aux switches, you will need to mount a 15a minimum switch in the cabin with a fused B+ on one side and the small relay terminal on the other (if you use a lighted switch which I recommend so you know when it is on, run the third switch terminal to ground).

Attach the negative winch cable to the battery negative cable terminal and reattach the negative terminal.

See the rough schematic below. You are done, so enjoy!

So this is what I ended up doing. I ordered a solonoid from summit racing. Wired it to aux3. The cable from the battery to the solonoid is black. That's all my local advance had. Someday I will cut it, it's a little long but my advance didnt have and new end fittings for this cable. Not the cleanest install but not too bad either.

 

[Renegade]

So this is what I ended up doing. I ordered a solonoid from summit racing. Wired it to aux3. The cable from the battery to the solonoid is black. That's all my local advance had. Someday I will cut it, it's a little long but my advance didnt have and new end fittings for this cable. Not the cleanest install but not too bad either.

Winches already have a solenoid in the control box which transfers power to the motor. Yours now has a solenoid which sends power to a solenoid...

 

[361Sean]

Winches already have a solenoid in the control box which transfers power to the motor. Yours now has a solenoid which sends power to a solenoid...

Correct. My concern was having a constantly hot cable going to the winch solonoid. I see bad things potentially happening if God forbid I get into a head on.

 

[Racer_X]

Interesting that you were able to put the angle iron in facing down. I didn't have room there on mine without scraping the side of the bay. I used the same method for the solenoid, just painted the angle iron to match the body color and put it in with the edge facing up.

 

[361Sean]

Yea it was tight. You dont have a problem closing the hood? Pic?

 

[Racer_X]

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...-do-to-your-gladiator-today.23705/post-497137

Hood clears easily.

 

[361Sean]

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...-do-to-your-gladiator-today.23705/post-497137

Hood clears easily.

Cool! I may switch mine.

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