Which Threadlocker?

[ducatijosh]

Installing a Clayton 2.5" Overland Plus lift kit this weekend, does everyone just use Loctite 242 on jam nuts etc? Would 243 be better? Obviously I'm not doing Red. Any other tips?

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[jjmstang]

Does the manufacturer recommend anything ?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I use red (271) on everything that I use anything at all on.
If it's worth locking, it's worth locking.
But my first choice is usually lock nuts. If I feel it needs more, then red.
It can be released if needed but when I put things together, I figure it's together and why use something easily broken loose with hand tools? If I think I'm going to go apart and back together a couple of times, then 243 (blue)
I keep red on hand for heli-coils, studs in manifolds and blocks and so on.

Obviously I'm not doing Red. Any other tips?

Why not? Do you not have faith in your work and believe you need to take it apart soon?
Look at what the factory uses - RED.

 

[jac04]

Look at what the factory uses - RED.

Are you saying that you've seen red threadlocker on factory-assembled suspension hardware?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Are you saying that you've seen red threadlocker on factory-assembled suspension hardware?

In nuts. The pitman nut has a version of the red thread locker.
It's been used in other vehicles over the years. For restorations, we use it all the time.
Most of the Jeep applications use lock nuts.

Ford uses red threadlocker on suspension and steering parts.
Toyota people say Toyota uses red on some suspension parts.

One big advantage of using a thread locker is that it seals the threads and prevents water migration and rust.

 

[Minty JL]

When in doubt red it is.

If it being a bitch removing something with red loctite........ that's what fire is for. Work smarter, not harder.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

When in doubt red it is.

If it being a bitch removing something with red loctite........ that's what fire is for. Work smarter, not harder.

That's why I bought an inductive heater - man, that thing works. Already used it to take parts off the gear box on my 60" mower deck and take a rusted-on pulley off an old alternator.

If it's something that's supposed to stay tight, safe, and in place for a long time, I am amazed by the resistance to using it.
I figured once my suspension was put together, I wasn't taking it apart again any time soon. And if so, I can get the stuff loose with some effort and care.

 

[ducatijosh]

Well, the stock control arms, shock bolts, track bar bolts, steering dampener bolts etc do not use red thread locker from the factory. These bushings do go bad and need replacement eventually too, that's why I wasn't thinking red.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Well, the stock control arms, shock bolts, track bar bolts, steering dampener bolts etc do not use red thread locker from the factory. These bushings do go bad and need replacement eventually too, that's why I wasn't thinking red.

Eventually is a few months away.
There's a few of us who use red, and it's used by some auto makers from the factory, I've not had a problem but then I can break big bolts with a 15" breaker bar, too.
I'm just not concerned - especially when I see people popping in here all the time with clunks, rattles and weird sounds only to find things have come loose or fallen out. Ask a couple of the guys about missing brake caliper bracket bolts.

On control arms where you are most likely to need to replace bushings the torque is crazy high if you use the factory specs (torque plus degrees) and are not so likely to have a problem. But a few guys have found stabilizer links and other parts loose. Lower torque fasteners are more likely to need help. Higher torque fasteners (control arms end up being a bit over 200 if you do the torque plus angle and ignore the other stuff floating around out there). Not real likely to come loose on a stock or mildly lifted vehicle.

Maybe Jeep SHOULD use thread locker - might help take care of some of the complaints of loose parts! Ford and others do on certain parts.

Jeep pitman arm nut shown below - supposed to be used ONE TIME and replaced any time it's removed.

If you use the fasteners as designed, and not re-use lock nuts 5 times, and do the torque of 103 ft/lbs plus 145 degrees, you aren't likely to have trouble. But using blue on such a fastener is like using masking tape to the tires on. What's the point.

 

[jac04]

In nuts. The pitman nut has a version of the red thread locker.
It's been used in other vehicles over the years. For restorations, we use it all the time.
Most of the Jeep applications use lock nuts.

Ford uses red threadlocker on suspension and steering parts.
Toyota people say Toyota uses red on some suspension parts.

One big advantage of using a thread locker is that it seals the threads and prevents water migration and rust.

Suspension component nuts on the JT? That was the specific question. I've had a few off my JT and never seen any. Nothing on my JK either. The FSM makes no mention of using threadlocker on suspension hardware.

I like the restoration comment, but that really doesn't matter much. When I do restorations, I'd get points deducted if there was any sign of threadlocker where it wasn't supposed to be.

Also, if you use threadlocker on applications that don't specify the use of it, you will need to adjust the torque value due to the threadlocker acting as a lubricant. But, I'm sure you already knew that.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Suspension component nuts on the JT? That was the specific question.

Yes, I generalized it. I see it was intended as a specific point.

When I do restorations, I'd get points deducted if there was any sign of threadlocker where it wasn't supposed to be.

Don't use so much LOL

For most parts, I do just what the TSM says, pitman shaft nut, for example, you stake the threads at the bottom edge of the nut once torqued. People go nuts over that, some say "NO!! You damage the shaft, you can't do that, it's dangerous" and on and on and yet - clean into the 1970s, every TSM section talking about replacing the pitman arm, replacing the sector shaft seals, or rebuilding the unit specifically state stake the threads. Factory did it, so why are they freaking out?
There aren't many places where it makes sense to use thread locker.

There are some fasteners for which you just can't get replacements in these old cars. I get bags of bolts and nuts - even washers - sent to me for restoration. The studs will get red thread locker when many of these guys put the engines and similar parts back together. Lock nuts - you just can't get some of these. (and some not so easily if you can get them). Strut rod nuts are very specific size, shape, and the replacements look like crap modern hardware store lock nuts. So I restore them and some guys use thread locker. It's a place exposed to water and even in the 60s and 70s the nuts would rust into place, often destroying the threads of the nut and the strut rod so thread locker prevents that and turns it into a lock nut again in a way.

Some of us use it on seat belt bolts because of like I said - prevents them from rusting back in place because the thread locker seals the threads against water and rust and makes them a whole lot easier to take back out later if necessary.

Any time you change the finish - zinc plated vs. black oxide vs. whatever, or use any compound of any kind, you need to adjust torque as best you can.
I also don't use a whole container of thread locker on anything as frankly, it's anaerobic and the excess never really cures - it relies on lack of oxygen to cure so only the bit away from the air is going to do any good anyway.

 

[Aleph]

Some of us use it on seat belt bolts because of like I said - prevents them from rusting back in place because the thread locker seals the threads against water and rust and makes them a whole lot easier to take back out later if necessary.

would red/271 locktite be advisable to use for seat bolts? Or would Blue/42 suffice, especially since red would make any future removal much more difficult/require an inductive heater where there’s carpet and potentially flammable materials?

edit: just re-read your post and see that you said seat BELT bolts, not seat bolts. But my question remains!

 

[Badunit]

If a bolt/nut does not call for thread locker, I may use blue to lock it on but really my thought is it gums up the threads a little so, if it does come loose, it doesn't unthread all the way and fall off. A prime example is for the bolts that attach dirt bike plastics/fairings. When one gets a little loose it is gone in a flash, never to be seen again. Personally, I avoid red as much as I can. That whole idea of "I'm not going to be taking this apart anytime soon" too often ends up being wishful thinking. But if it calls for red, it gets red.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I'd use blue if I wanted to be able to get it apart with tools.

Red is what is used for Helicoil - where you need 100 Senate votes, 435 house votes, 9-0 supreme court decision and the blessing of the Pope to get it apart.
Not what I'd probably use on seat bolts.

 

[Free2roam]

I use 271 on some things. But 242 on most. Most even with 271 I can take off without heat. I used to use it all the time at work and was able to take it off without any heat. Regardless 242 is my go to.

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