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Why did everyone decide their trim level (sport vs rubicon etc)?

Under-Pressure

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So the Tazer mini won't reprogram the ECM, Speedo, & shift points? Would the dealer need to do that?
The J Scan app is worth looking at also to make those changes... & much more. Works great & is a fraction of the cost.
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eaglerugby04

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I really wanted a Rubicon and was about to order, then they announced the Mojave. I became torn on what model to get but still figured I would get a Ruby. Decided to wait for the Mojave reviews and YouTube videos to come out before ordering. So it came down to this. I ordered a Mojave in Gator beginning of June and here is why.

It came down to the suspension. Here in northern Maine, our roads are horrible. massive potholes and frost heaves that will cause you to go airborne if you do not slow down. My off-roading consist of logging and farm roads with mud, rocks and wash boards, and hence the need for the suspension. I also will not lift (well maybe a AEV spacer lift) to keep that factory ride as this will be my daily driver. As for the other features:

Electronic sway bar disconnect - I'll never need it or use it,
Front locker -nice but probably will never need (still may add one in the future)
Off road + - I can see me using this in deep snow 8+ inches
1 inch lift in the front, from the factory - nice
Don't need the full 7000lbs towing - 6000lbs will do for me
No red dash
And most importly - that hood, love it!
Most all else being the same throughout the model line up.
Yes! The red on Gator baffles me as well. I want to repaint mine so bad, but am just to afraid of messing it up.
 

DreamedofaJeepSomeday

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I really wanted a Rubicon and was about to order, then they announced the Mojave. I became torn on what model to get but still figured I would get a Ruby. Decided to wait for the Mojave reviews and YouTube videos to come out before ordering. So it came down to this. I ordered a Mojave in Gator beginning of June and here is why.

It came down to the suspension. Here in northern Maine, our roads are horrible. massive potholes and frost heaves that will cause you to go airborne if you do not slow down. My off-roading consist of logging and farm roads with mud, rocks and wash boards, and hence the need for the suspension. I also will not lift (well maybe a AEV spacer lift) to keep that factory ride as this will be my daily driver. As for the other features:

Electronic sway bar disconnect - I'll never need it or use it,
Front locker -nice but probably will never need (still may add one in the future)
Off road + - I can see me using this in deep snow 8+ inches
1 inch lift in the front, from the factory - nice
Don't need the full 7000lbs towing - 6000lbs will do for me
No red dash
And most importly - that hood, love it!
Most all else being the same throughout the model line up.
I ordered an Overland because I wanted the creatur comforts and did not need the hardcore features of Rubicon. If, however, if I did want something more hardcore, the Mojave would be my choice, for many of the same reasons you cited.
 
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Cadpat7

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I went Sport S Max Tow because it was the best bang for your buck IMO. A Rubicon with the same options was about $7k more and the only things I genuinely feel like I missed out on are lockers and the high clearance fenders. Those can be had for a little over half of that $7k later on.
I disagree with your calculation

To turn your Sport S into a Rubicon, you need lockers x2, a new set of 4.10x2 because the ones you got won't fit, a new transfer case NVG241OR w/ 4.1:1 ratio, flash the computer, new/higher suspension, and then the fenders.

Just with the lockers/gear and t-case, you will hit the 7K in mods, especially if you do not do it by yourself.

But your thinking was right, you've bought it to best suit your needs.
 

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I went Rubicon that is pretty loaded inside. No bluetooth speaker and none of the extra safety stuff. Reason being is im planning to stay stock until its paid for and still want to be abel to off road. Now once its paid for thats an extra $700 a month to throw at it for lift tires rims ect. Also i understand that lockers and stuff can be done better aftermarket for cheaper, and i might upgrade those later on, but the factory ones are plenty stock and i get plenty of use out of them.
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I was replacing a Ford Edge Sport and it had all the options. I found an Overland that had every option available on it. The MSRP was $57k. I did not need the Rubi offroad capability so this one fit perfect. And with the big discounts I had to go for it.
 

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Just curious why everyone decided on their trim level?

I was initially going to go all out and get a LE gladiator and then decided I could get a decently decked out max tow AND a new 2019 Honda Accord sport for about the same price. I ran the numbers and it made sense to me.

I definitely dig the Mojave’s, rubicons and LEs out there, but every time I see both my rides I don’t think twice about the decision. For the summer, I leave the gladiator garaged with doors/top removed etc, drive on the super nice days or when I need to use it as a truck, or just want to have fun driving it. Those days when it’s rainy or super super hot, or cold, I drive the accord. I’m doing about a 70/30 split miles wise accord/gladiator ratio. I do about 100 miles a day in commute so it just makes sense to me spreading the miles over both. To this day I get excited jumping in Both!

Anyone else go with a sport + another car vs higher end trim gladiator?

Jeep Gladiator Why did everyone decide their trim level (sport vs rubicon etc)? AFDEE5DF-C6D0-48FF-B8E1-7F0AAB3D8F82


Jeep Gladiator Why did everyone decide their trim level (sport vs rubicon etc)? AFDEE5DF-C6D0-48FF-B8E1-7F0AAB3D8F82
I went with the Max Tow, Sport S, since it was the best option that I could afford. I'd love to have a Mojave but, on a Paramedic's salary, that was not an option. It has heated seats and steering wheel (which was not a make or break) and remote start, which will be nice for the cold Wisconsin days. I'm very happy with the decision thus far.
 

elarse1

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Just curious why everyone decided on their trim level?

...

Anyone else go with a sport + another car vs higher end trim gladiator?
I originally was just going to get a relatively inexpensive replacement for my base-model Tacoma, and I was looking at the Sport-S. But then we reduced the number of cars in the garage, selling my RX-8 (wah) and the Tacoma, so I wanted to get some goodies for the replacement so it would be my primary vehicle (the Alpine stereo, regular tow package, locking diff, etc.). Well, by the time I added in all the options, the Overland was actually cheaper than the Sport-S. I'm not really going to go on the trail, so I don't really need a Rubicon or gigantic tires to go up and down the interstate. So I picked the Overland - still cost me $50k!
 

kelkolb

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I disagree with your calculation

To turn your Sport S into a Rubicon, you need lockers x2, a new set of 4.10x2 because the ones you got won't fit, a new transfer case NVG241OR w/ 4.1:1 ratio, flash the computer, new/higher suspension, and then the fenders.

Just with the lockers/gear and t-case, you will hit the 7K in mods, especially if you do not do it by yourself.

But your thinking was right, you've bought it to best suit your needs.
I only said the lockers and fenders. I don’t want the 4:1 transfer case. I would lift a rubicon anyways, so suspension is irrelevant. I will also be re gearing to 4.88’s with 37’s which is when ill do lockers, so gearing changes are irrelevant. Clearly, just turning mine into a Rubicon would cost a hell of a lot more than $7k.
 

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Cadpat7

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I only said the lockers and fenders. I don’t want the 4:1 transfer case. I would lift a rubicon anyways, so suspension is irrelevant. I will also be re gearing to 4.88’s with 37’s which is when ill do lockers, so gearing changes are irrelevant. Clearly, just turning mine into a Rubicon would cost a hell of a lot more than $7k.
You are stating that you'll go w/ 4.88's, so gearing IS relevant :) You also said "option that you missed". I was just pointing out there is much more thant just the lockers and fenders!

On my side, I would like the Mojave frame, the Rubicon t-case and fenders, an Hamburger Supercharger, and a pair of Dana 60s w/lockers/4.56 front and back. I won't see that hitting the dealer lot anytime soon !:CWL:
 

kelkolb

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You are stating that you'll go w/ 4.88's, so gearing IS relevant :) You also said "option that you missed". I was just pointing out there is much more thant just the lockers and fenders!

On my side, I would like the Mojave frame, the Rubicon t-case and fenders, an Hamburger Supercharger, and a pair of Dana 60s w/lockers/4.56 front and back. I won't see that hitting the dealer lot anytime soon !:CWL:
Well it's not relevant when I would be re gearing a Rubicon also. Those are the only options I feel I missed out on. Certainly not the only differences between the two.

I'd take that combo with 4.88's and a 6.4 Hemi!
 

Cadpat7

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Well it's not relevant when I would be re gearing a Rubicon also. Those are the only options I feel I missed out on. Certainly not the only differences between the two.

I'd take that combo with 4.88's and a 6.4 Hemi!
Got it. My recipe for 37" is to keep the 4.10 gears, but make a good use of the Rubicon T-case. Was the perfect combo for my own use. To each his own I guess.

It will be a whole new debate once an electric engine will be out ! :)
 

kelkolb

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Got it. My recipe for 37" is to keep the 4.10 gears, but make a good use of the Rubicon T-case. Was the perfect combo for my own use. To each his own I guess.

It will be a whole new debate once an electric engine will be out ! :)
Many people say that the 4.10's are fine with 37's, but I've already practically lost 8th gear with a 34 so I know I'll want to re gear. I want it to feel as stock as possible in that sense.
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