Rubicon, would installing the "open hood vents" improve cooling when towing?

[mr. cob]

Howdy All,

Folks have talked about heating problems when towing, I have the gas 3.6L with auto transmission, 4.10 axles. Don't plan to do a lot of towing but when I tow it will be in the 5,000/5,500 pound range, 16 foot tandem dual axle enclosed trailer with a CAN AM X3, SxS in the trailer.

So I was wondering if anyone has installed the open hood vent kit and if they had noticed lower towing temperatures or has having the vents in the hood open caused any problems with water or other debris getting into the engine compartment.

Any advise or suggestion will be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Dave

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[WILDHOBO]

I have a rubicon, and can confirm that the vents are functional, but I don’t think it will make that much difference in towing cooling. Since you have 4.10:1 gears, can I assume you have a sport s max tow? My thought process is that since a max tow handles 650 pounds more towing weight than the rubicon (7000-Rubicon, 7650-MaxTow), without a vented hood, that it probably doesn’t make a large enough difference.

 

[Mr._Bill]

If it made a significant difference, it would be done at the factory. Jeep engineers did a lot to be able to make that 'best in class' towing claim. Almost all the overheating reports are coming from those with the diesel engine.

 

[Puch]

Howdy All,

Folks have talked about heating problems when towing, I have the gas 3.6L with auto transmission, 4.10 axles. Don't plan to do a lot of towing but when I tow it will be in the 5,000/5,500 pound range, 16 foot tandem dual axle enclosed trailer with a CAN AM X3, SxS in the trailer.

So I was wondering if anyone has installed the open hood vent kit and if they had noticed lower towing temperatures or has having the vents in the hood open caused any problems with water or other debris getting into the engine compartment.

Any advise or suggestion will be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Dave

You can take your hood completely off. If your coolant is correct and your thermostat is working correct, it will make no difference. If your vehicle is getting to hot while towing, you’re towing to much weight, your pushing it to hard (take your time), your coolant is not the correct ratio (50/50 for example), or your thermostat isn’t correct or is not working correctly.
BTW, I have a vented hood and it made no difference. I did it because I liked the look. The only problem I have encountered is salt water (road salt) getting in during winter months. It has stained the the hood insulation with white marks.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Howdy All,

Folks have talked about heating problems when towing, I have the gas 3.6L with auto transmission, 4.10 axles. Don't plan to do a lot of towing but when I tow it will be in the 5,000/5,500 pound range, 16 foot tandem dual axle enclosed trailer with a CAN AM X3, SxS in the trailer.

So I was wondering if anyone has installed the open hood vent kit and if they had noticed lower towing temperatures or has having the vents in the hood open caused any problems with water or other debris getting into the engine compartment.

Any advise or suggestion will be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Dave

Why, does yours overheat?

I've not seen any of the 3.6 powered JTs run too hot when towing. Diesels, yes, but even then not all of them.

Don't worry about it.
I tow 5,000 pounds with an OVERLAND and the 3.73 ratio without trouble. All temperatures - coolant, transmission and oil, were fine.

 

[kevman65]

As far as I know, no one has done a "scientific" test with probes and readouts to prove or disprove that the Rubicon vents would affect the engine temps.

Now, there is a gentleman in Texas who has a video with such probes and readouts in stock configuration and with the following items installed.

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/intake-systems/75-5121-s-b-cold-air-intake-cotton-filter

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/hood-accessories/as-1014-s-b-filters-air-hood-scoop-system

And said video Part 1




And Part 2





DISCLAIMER ON PART 2 Enough time for the PCM/ECM/BRAIN to learn the new intake wasn't given. I believe this is why the JT went into a lean condition. I believe if he had done a dyno on STOCK, then changed to S&B system and driven normally for 500-1000 miles his results would have been different.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

As far as I know, no one has done a "scientific" test with probes and readouts to prove or disprove that the Rubicon vents would affect the engine temps.

Now, there is a gentleman in Texas who has a video with such probes and readouts in stock configuration and with the following items installed.

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/intake-systems/75-5121-s-b-cold-air-intake-cotton-filter

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/hood-accessories/as-1014-s-b-filters-air-hood-scoop-system

And said video Part 1




And Part 2





DISCLAIMER ON PART 2 Enough time for the PCM/ECM/BRAIN to learn the new intake wasn't given. I believe this is why the JT went into a lean condition. I believe if he had done a dyno on STOCK, then changed to S&B system and driven normally for 500-1000 miles his results would have been different.

These supposed tests on YT are all about clicks and look what I did.
This is just like the ones I've seen for Ford and others - but at least the one guy doing the test on Ford was brutally honest and said -
unless you run with your engine over 5,000 RPM - why bother?

They can't simulate real conditions on a dyno. There's no air flow - they are sitting there with the under-hood temperatures climbing without the benefit of the flow of air on the road.
Further - many of these guys are talking gains at RPMs you'll rarely ever see.
I've watched the tests of cold air intake, different filters and other changes on some of these YT videos and sitting on a dyno in a room and running at the RPMs they are running.
This guy has fans in front - still not like on a highway. Air flow, air pressures, will be a lot different driving it, hood closed, on the road.

And like said - you can't throw in parts and make another dyno run and say hey lookie! Great!
These guys are trying to sell product or legitimize their "discoveries".
Do we drive at 3,000 RPM? Do we even drive with 2500 RPM? Unless they can show an intake that gives me 5 to 10 more HP in the 1500-2500 RPM range - what good is it?

Test under-hood temperatures with and without vents is another animal - drive it, real driving.
But - if there's no problem, isn't even that a solution looking for a problem?

 

[mr. cob]

Howdy All,

Thanks for the replies. Like I said I don't plan on doing any heavy towing or doing it on a regular basis. My main concern is that after installing the M.O.R.E. engine oil pan/ transmission, and transfer case skid plates that they will have a tendency to hold some heat in the engine compartment and under the truck; this in all probability WON'T be a problem but with that in mind I thought of installing the vented hood kit but don't want to introduce crude through the vents into the engine compartment.

So until or "IF" I notice a heating problem I won't consider doing the vented hood scoops, just wondered what others thought or had done. Again thanks for the replies.

Dave

 

[Devil Dog]

Howdy All,

Thanks for the replies. Like I said I don't plan on doing any heavy towing or doing it on a regular basis. My main concern is that after installing the M.O.R.E. engine oil pan/ transmission, and transfer case skid plates that they will have a tendency to hold some heat in the engine compartment and under the truck; this in all probability WON'T be a problem but with that in mind I thought of installing the vented hood kit but don't want to introduce crude through the vents into the engine compartment.

So until or "IF" I notice a heating problem I won't consider doing the vented hood scoops, just wondered what others thought or had done. Again thanks for the replies.

Dave

Hey, Dave! How have you been?
Still got the Ural?
There's a few folks from ADV on here who jeep more than ride these days.

 

[mr. cob]

Hey, Dave! How have you been?
Still got the Ural?
There's a few folks from ADV on here who jeep more than ride these days.

Howdy John,

The VA replaced both my knees a couple of years ago, sitting in one position for long periods of time as when riding a motorcycle can get painful after a while. I have sold the street Ural's, still have the highly modified off road Ural, the "Predator" but would sell it if a person offered enough to get my interest, that beast now has a 825cc engine, dual spark plug heads, pumper carbs, in addition to all the other mods that make it the most unique and bad assed Ural on the planet.

A Hot Rod SxS ( CAN AM X3 XRC ) has pretty much taken over my off road chores, the Gladiator will be used NOT abused as all of my previous Jeeps were.

Dave

 

[WILDHOBO]

Howdy All,

Thanks for the replies. Like I said I don't plan on doing any heavy towing or doing it on a regular basis. My main concern is that after installing the M.O.R.E. engine oil pan/ transmission, and transfer case skid plates that they will have a tendency to hold some heat in the engine compartment and under the truck; this in all probability WON'T be a problem but with that in mind I thought of installing the vented hood kit but don't want to introduce crude through the vents into the engine compartment.

So until or "IF" I notice a heating problem I won't consider doing the vented hood scoops, just wondered what others thought or had done. Again thanks for the replies.

Dave

I tow frequently at high altitudes and extreme inclines in the mountains, at interstate speeds. I also have a full engine, transmission, t-case, and gas tank belly skid system. I frequently tow for miles at 4k rpm’s, on long ascents. Never have I been able to get the engine or tranny to even reach 50% on the temp gauge. 40% is probably the max I’ve hit. You’re fine. It’ll handle it fine.

 

[mr. cob]

I tow frequently at high altitudes and extreme inclines in the mountains, at interstate speeds. I also have a full engine, transmission, t-case, and gas tank belly skid system. I frequently tow for miles at 4k rpm’s, on long ascents. Never have I been able to get the engine or tranny to even reach 50% on the temp gauge. 40% is probably the max I’ve hit. You’re fine. It’ll handle it fine.

Howdy Dan,

Thanks for your very informative post, I really appreciate it.

Dave

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Never have I been able to get the engine or tranny to even reach 50% on the temp gauge. 40% is probably the max I’ve hit.

While I agree he'll be fine, that gauge is always at about 40% until the temp really climbs. It's not a direct link to actual temperature. You can get pretty warm before that thing even moves. It will sit there through quite a range of temperatures.

But he will be fine.
Use the ORP to see the real gauges. The other "gauge" is more of an idiot light and not linear.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Howdy Dan,

Thanks for your very informative post, I really appreciate it.

Dave

Any time. We purchased this specifically to handle our trailer better than our old Cherokee. It did have overheating issues, specifically the tranny. The gladiator gets bored towing small trailers. I can’t seem to hurt it.

 

[Rusty PW]

I have a diesel. I modded the hood vents and really didn't see to much of a difference going down the highway. When stopped. It will let more of the hot air out. For the vents to work. They should be in the front, center of the hood. Above and just behind the radiator.

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