Trickle Charger Through 7-Pin Connector

[sharpsicle]

Hi everyone. I'm trying to find a better way to put a maintainer on my battery whenever I leave my truck for extended periods. Right now I have to open the hood and clip on to the posts each time, and I do it frequently enough that I'm hoping to find a better way.

The way I park in the garage, I would love it if I could connect the trickle charger at the rear of the truck instead of the front. This has led me to think about using the 7-pin trailer connector in some way to feed current to the battery since it has both +12v and ground connections. It would be the most convenient and the cleanest solution. I get conflicting information on if this is do-able when I look into the question, so I figure I'd ask here and see if anyone had some practical knowledge about how this would work on a Gladiator.

I know there are some considerations here I need to be aware of, such as the run of the wiring from the 7-pin to the battery (and the expected loss over said run), how it's pathed and fused back to the battery, and how this would affect maintaining both the main and aux batteries. If anyone has some insight on this, I would really appreciate it. Just trying to cover my bases before I do my own trial-and-error setups.

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[Cruizer8]

I am not sure about using the 7 pin, but why can't you just hardwire a 12V SAE 2 pin connector to the battery and run it somewhere easily accessible? This is what I do with my motorcycles and I don't have to remove my seat to access the battery any more.

 

[JohnFinx]

Maybe this will help:

It looks like pins 1 & 4 will work for you. I would do a little more research before trying it though....

 

[Jeepmonster]

Hi everyone. I'm trying to find a better way to put a maintainer on my battery whenever I leave my truck for extended periods. Right now I have to open the hood and clip on to the posts each time, and I do it frequently enough that I'm hoping to find a better way.

The way I park in the garage, I would love it if I could connect the trickle charger at the rear of the truck instead of the front. This has led me to think about using the 7-pin trailer connector in some way to feed current to the battery since it has both +12v and ground connections. It would be the most convenient and the cleanest solution. I get conflicting information on if this is do-able when I look into the question, so I figure I'd ask here and see if anyone had some practical knowledge about how this would work on a Gladiator.

I know there are some considerations here I need to be aware of, such as the run of the wiring from the 7-pin to the battery (and the expected loss over said run), how it's pathed and fused back to the battery, and how this would affect maintaining both the main and aux batteries. If anyone has some insight on this, I would really appreciate it. Just trying to cover my bases before I do my own trial-and-error setups.

You can do something similar to what I did. You can easily mount the SAE receptacle in the back (or both front and back).
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...do-to-your-gladiator-today.23705/post-1025812

The 12V (pin 4 of the 7 pin connector) is only on when the ignition switch in the ACC or ON position, at least on mine.

 

[HankB]

I have a Ctek maintainer for the Porsche. They make a number of different plug adapters. I am currently using the cigar lighter plug rather than the clamps.

 

[Radio Guy]

In my opinion charging through the rear trailer connector has a lot of wire to the battery and a charger's sensing circuitry may not give an accurate charge. I think the pins labeled charge are for charging the trailer battery from the truck while driving.

I keep my Gladiator on a 60w solar panel most of the time since it doesn't get driven much. Due to my radio hobby, all of my 12V accys and solar panel chargers have Anderson Power Pole connectors and I have a chassis mount version that I plan on installing in the front grill which will connect right to the battery. That is close to the battery and will provide easy access for the solar panel or external charger or will power my portable air compressor and other items needing power.

A two circuit trailer connector under the hood connected to the battery will also work and I would look for one with 10ga wire attached.

 

[Jimmij]

i did this today and just zip tied it to the grill opening. Super easy and now the wife can plug it in


Bought a couple harnesses on Amazon.
https://amazon.com/dp/B0B7G61H15?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
https://amazon.com/dp/B08CSQFVV5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

[sharpsicle]

You can do something similar to what I did. You can easily mount the SAE receptacle in the back (or both front and back).
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...do-to-your-gladiator-today.23705/post-1025812

The 12V (pin 4 of the 7 pin connector) is only on when the ignition switch in the ACC or ON position, at least on mine.

That setup is very similar to what I had in mind. I was hoping not to have to run new wiring all the way back from the battery though, and instead utilize what's already there. I imagine that since the 7-pin is to charge a trailer's battery, it must be substantial enough wiring to accomplish what I want. I wasn't aware that it switched off, but I suppose that's not something that can't be overcome through a manual switch to override that.

EDIT: I just tested my pins, and across 4 and 7 I have 12v with the truck off, so it should be usable in theory.

In my opinion charging through the rear trailer connector has a lot of wire to the battery and a charger's sensing circuitry may not give an accurate charge. I think the pins labeled charge are for charging the trailer battery from the truck while driving.

I keep my Gladiator on a 60w solar panel most of the time since it doesn't get driven much. Due to my radio hobby, all of my 12V accys and solar panel chargers have Anderson Power Pole connectors and I have a chassis mount version that I plan on installing in the front grill which will connect right to the battery. That is close to the battery and will provide easy access for the solar panel or external charger or will power my portable air compressor and other items needing power.

A two circuit trailer connector under the hood connected to the battery will also work and I would look for one with 10ga wire attached.

How the charger would interact over that run of the wire is exactly what I'm looking to find out more about. The pins are 100% for what you described, I'm just trying to take advantage of that for charging the truck instead.

As for the rest, it doesn't really work for me. I'm in a garage, so solar panels aren't going to work, and I'm specifically trying to avoid using a front hookup because I back in. I know I could just run a connector to the grill, that's easy, but it wouldn't accomplish what I'm trying to do. Not to mention, with a front hookup I wouldn't be able to have an effective breakaway on the line if I drive off without disconnecting it first.

 

[CrazyCooter]

I made a 7way to SAE adapter long ago to keep that battery topped up. I also have an ARB refer in the truck, so I plug it into the "solar on the side" SAE plug on my rv through an extension cord to keep things charged when camping.

 

[sharpsicle]

I made a 7way to SAE adapter long ago to keep that battery topped up.

This is exactly my goal! No issues with it maintaining charge over that?

 

[Radio Guy]

That setup is very similar to what I had in mind. I was hoping not to have to run new wiring all the way back from the battery though, and instead utilize what's already there. I imagine that since the 7-pin is to charge a trailer's battery, it must be substantial enough wiring to accomplish what I want. I wasn't aware that it switched off, but I suppose that's not something that can't be overcome through a manual switch to override that.

EDIT: I just tested my pins, and across 4 and 7 I have 12v with the truck off, so it should be usable in theory.



How the charger would interact over that run of the wire is exactly what I'm looking to find out more about. The pins are 100% for what you described, I'm just trying to take advantage of that for charging the truck instead.

As for the rest, it doesn't really work for me. I'm in a garage, so solar panels aren't going to work, and I'm specifically trying to avoid using a front hookup because I back in. I know I could just run a connector to the grill, that's easy, but it wouldn't accomplish what I'm trying to do. Not to mention, with a front hookup I wouldn't be able to have an effective breakaway on the line if I drive off without disconnecting it first.

I think for trickle charging the rear trailer connector should be fine. Its high current charging that I would be concerned about with the long cable run to the rear and end of charge sensors in the charger.

 

[CrazyCooter]

This is exactly my goal! No issues with it maintaining charge over that?

Nope, just make darn sure the polarity for the SAE is correct. I've been guilt of thinking backward a time or two.......

 

[CrazyCooter]

I think for trickle charging the rear trailer connector should be fine. Its high current charging that I would be concerned about with the long cable run to the rear and end of charge sensors in the charger.

Should be good for 10-15A easy. I see up to 18A from my DC to DC converter, but the 7way starts to get warm due to the undersized wire/low voltage condition.

 

[ZoMojave]

I installed a pigtail from the battery to the grill. Fast and easy.

 

[just_another_guy]

I have a 20a DC-DC charger on my trailer and have had no issues running it through my 7 pin (pretty sure that circuit is on a 30a fuse)

The charger will have no problem with the length of wire going up to the battery. You could have some loss of voltage & current at the initial bulk charge state with a high amperage charger, but that won't be an issue with a trickle charger. It will top off & maintain the battery just like if it were connected in the engine bay.

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