I need a plan for Metalcloak lift

[Sempe-Fi Rubicon]

I have had my JTR almost 3 months now and reading about all the lifts is quite confusing. My mission is to build a rig capable of running moderate type trails and still maintaining good on road drivability. Want to be able to full flex my Runicon without getting into the fenders. Initially I thought Mopar and 35's but reading reviews of Clayton and Metalcloaks seem to be so much better. Can I start with the Metalcloack 3.5 Dual Rate kit to get started? Do I need driveshaft right away? Should I get the shock relocation brackets till i can fund a better shock? I have method 8.5 x 17 0 offset, will these be compatible. Can I buy the parts later to add on to make it a Gamechanger Kit? I would love to be able to run 37's eventually, does this sound like a good start. Don't wanna have to pay for everything at once , so looking to do it modular. Help please. I'm spending way too much time researching and wanna get the wheels rolling. Thanks in Advance

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[Jefe1018]

Whether or not you get into the fender has very little to do with the lift kit and everything to do with the bump stops. I have a Mopar lift and 37's, even in my profile pic I am fully flexed in the front but still can fit my entire hand all the way around the tire. I am running the Mopar 2 inch lift.

The Metalcloak kit is very nice, much higher quality components than the Mopar lift I am running, hence the big price difference.

You should be able to get away with shock relocation brackets.

As far as driveline, I know that metalcloak's website makes you feel silly and makes your procalim being a 'JT expert' to not buy a driveshaft, but it shouldn't really needed for just 35's and a moderate lift.

You can always upgrade components little by little.

I plan to eventually swap out my control arms for metalcloak, track bars for Clayton, and a few others.

However, for the wheeling I do, the Mopar lift and 37's has proven to be more than capable.

Now, queue the guy coming in telling you you need dana 60's and to spend $60,000 to run a 37.....

 

[Sempe-Fi Rubicon]

Jefe1018, what wheel width and offset are you running?

 

[Jefe1018]

Jefe1018, what wheel width and offset are you running?

I'm running 17x8.5 diameter, 0 offset.

 

[USMC_1Wire6337]

The folks @Metalcloak are super solid and friendly people from the ones that I have dealt with. You can call them up and talk through you plans or ideas and have them answer your questions.

As a side note, you can just about buy everything separately so you can do everything in stages. Want to gain a little height and more flexibility, go with a spacer lift with the good shocks now and metal cloak front LCA for correction and flex. Want more flex, add complete control arms setup. Need more height, sell space and buy the larger springs. Control arms are the same and can be adjusted for the new height.

Some of the other brands can do the same, but I drank the MC Koolaid and also like the gold bling...

It really helps that they also do a ton of research and testing. Oh, and they are down the street from the Rubicon (as the crow flies), so they have great access to a strong testing ground.

 

[Sempe-Fi Rubicon]

Thank you both, great info.

 

[bleda2002]

The need for a front driveshaft will be determined by your shock length. If you are 28.5 or less extended length (give or take a few tenths) you can avoid a front drive shaft. This matches up well to the fox 3.5-4 inch shocks upfront (which will work with the game changer 3.5 or Clayton 2.5) The rear drive shaft you won't need to change for the game changer or Clayton lifts as the springs will unseat before the drive shaft causes issues.

Backspacing on the wheels will be fine unless you are using the MC six pack shocks. You can use extensions if you prefer as well but I'd go AEV as the out board style extensions from metalcloak will require more backspacing.

If you are just trying to get started check out the Clayton 2.5 basic lift kit, it has all the parts you need and can choose to either get the Clayton or mc version of them as both sell individual items. Only change I would make to it is to get a set of MC lowers instead of the uppers like Clayton does mostly for the clearance bends.

I went with a combo of metal cloak and Clayton as I wanted the heavier duty springs of Clayton but love the MC no maintenance joints and clearance of them.

 

[Sempe-Fi Rubicon]

If you can run 37"s with a 2.5" lift on a Rubicon, why do individuals run larger lifts? Does the larger lift allow for more articulation?

 

[fourfa]

Two things:

1. Raises the belly to improve break-over angle and reduce high-centering. If you haven't wheeled much in a long-wheelbase vehicle like the JT, it's as much a problem as clearance under the axles
2. Change the ratio of uptravel to downtravel. There's plenty of articulation stock, but most of it (especially when weighted down with all the trail and camping gear, especially with a diesel) is downtravel, and there's not as much uptravel. Crawling slowly, this is kinda OK, you might be on the bumpstops a lot on one corner or another, but you still get weight and grip on the other corners. But when you're carrying some speed on desert trails or soaking up whoops or cattle guards, those bumpstops hit you with some violence. Higher static ride height (and higher spring rate) is the fix.

 

[Jefe1018]

If you can run 37"s with a 2.5" lift on a Rubicon, why do individuals run larger lifts? Does the larger lift allow for more articulation?

There are multiple reasons, such as break over angle, down travel flex, amount of weight being carried (think the overloaded pigs that are those professional camping rigs), looks, upgradability to a larger tire once the steering and axles are either reinforced or swapped to 1-ton's.

Keep in mind however, the mopar lift is actually only 2 inches and 37's fit just fine. If you aren't looking to take the silliest lines on the hardest trails consitently and looking to push yourself and your truck, I'm convinced that 99% of people can do everything with 37's and a moderate lift.

The only real limitation with 37's and a 2-inch lift is the departure angle, breakover does play a factor but in the southwest I've run out of rear departure before breakover plenty of times and last time I checked still haven't kissed a skid plate. I like to take some silly lines just for giggles, but I don't go looking for trouble on purpose.

 

[Sempe-Fi Rubicon]

Thanks, nice explanations. Seems like the Mopar lift would be sufficient for my offroad needs. Maybe just add an adjustable front track bar and teraflex level kit and call it a day. 37's and gears and probably be able to everything I want to do.

 

[Jefe1018]

Thanks, nice explanations. Seems like the Mopar lift would be sufficient for my offroad needs. Maybe just add an adjustable front track bar and teraflex level kit and call it a day. 37's and gears and probably be able to everything I want to do.

I’m a little bias, but more than likely.

I haven’t gotten the track bar yet, at 13,000+ miles my tires have worn equally and the truck tracks perfectly straight.

The regear will help, but I’ll be no help there as the diesel doesn’t quite need it in my opinion on 37’s.

 

[Sempe-Fi Rubicon]

Jefe1018, can you diso the front swaybar and still have no rubbing issues at full flex with your setup?

 

[21Moja]

Sounds like you need to get Metalcloak on the phone and have a conversation with them...They will be able to guide you in the right direction with most, if not all, your questions

 

[Sempe-Fi Rubicon]

Thanks for the suggestion.

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