10K for Lift

[Minty JL]

Real trick is to piece it together via hitting the sales and vendor deals.

I got a full set of Method wheels from a vendor on here shipped for under $1100. The I hit the killer Walmart deal last week for 37x13.5x17 tires; all 4 for under $500 shipped (now they're $465 ea now).

Like everyone else said, 10k is a healthy budget, but labor cost will eat it fast. Good friends that can wrench, cold beer and pizza get it done too.

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[WILDHOBO]

As politely as possible…. Disagree.
Tires are not what I would call cheap (cheap in the grand scheme…. But still)

unless you are recommending a 10.5” wide tire- a 12.5+ is going to “balloon” on the narrow factory wheel. Which has a positive- poor man’s beadlocks! But, you are dramatically going to increase the wear on the center portion of the tire.
- this is coming from a guy who thought he was being Frugal…. And it ended up costing me a lot of life on a full set of tires….

It depends on the tires. If your mounting a tire that wants 8.5” or 9” wheel width on a 7.5” wheel, I agree. But Baja Boss A/T 37x12.5xr17 for example recommend only 8” width. That’s only a 1/4” less on each bead if mounted on a factory wheel. I have that exact setup, and my tires are wearing normally. Also, 4 wheel parts has a sale today on those tires. You can buy 5 for $1,500. Or 4 for 1,200.

 

[Jefe1018]

You know in some circles (wife), that's considered evidence lol.

I got busted with $1,100 in PDF invoices on my desktop once.... being a bean counter and a vehicle modification guy really hurts sometimes.

 

[DocMike]

I have the Clayton 2.5 Overland Plus with the Falcon SP2 3.5 eAdjust
Black Rhinos too. Grabbed the walmart 37s.
The walmart deal was a bit over $600 for 5 37s...
Did my own install. Very happy with the set up, flex and ride..video is from Redcone....on 35s.

Also running the Falcon Steering stabilizer and the Clayton swaybar bracket and rear diff skid.
numbers on my lift and shocks....
Order Details

Order Total:	$4,482.99 USD
Date Placed:	2nd Nov 2021
Payment Method:	PayPal Invoice #35777

Products shipped

Cart Items	SKU​	Qty​
Clayton Offroad Jeep Gladiator 2.5" Overland Plus Lift Kit 2020+ JT	COR-3010025​	1​
TeraFlex Falcon SP2 3.5 e-Adjust Piggyback Shock Kit- 2-3" Lift JT	TER-14-03-35-400-150​	1​

Shipment Tracking Numbers

 

[SuperUltraMan]

10k would not cover a dream build for me.
This was my build with upgrading the stock axle housings just to survive 40” tires…. It might have cost another $10K just to have larger, stronger axles.
And this was with me performing all labor except the regear.

$2100 Regear with labor
$2400 Wheels
$2500 Tires
$1750 Steering (Tie Rod, Draglink, Trackbar with Brace and raised Bracket, HD Swaybar Endlinks)
$2000 Axle shafts and Diff Covers
$800 Front Driveshaft and related parts
$3000 Suspension (Control Arms, Springs, Miscellaneous Brackets/Parts, Shocks)
=$14,550
Yikes!
This is the first time added it up.
….And I just realized that I didn’t add the Fox TS Stabilizer and other parts!
…And there was the first small lift of 2.5” with 37s and then the first beadlocks and the 38s………
JEEP…
J=Just
E=Empty
E=Every
P=Pocket

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

As politely as possible…. Disagree.
Tires are not what I would call cheap (cheap in the grand scheme…. But still)

unless you are recommending a 10.5” wide tire- a 12.5+ is going to “balloon” on the narrow factory wheel. Which has a positive- poor man’s beadlocks! But, you are dramatically going to increase the wear on the center portion of the tire.
- this is coming from a guy who thought he was being Frugal…. And it ended up costing me a lot of life on a full set of tires….

I had a set of 33x12.50 GY MTRs mounted on 7" wide wheels.

I got 60k miles out of a 5 tire set doing 5 tire rotations. This is equivalent to 48k miles on a 4 tire set. Ran them at about 25 psi. I was even able to sell them for a couple hundred bucks after I was done with them because they were in good shape.

 

[Jeepasaurus_Rex]

Lots of really good answers in here. It really just boils down to your overall intended use... or what it would be used for the majority/percentage of the time.

If you take some time to look for deals, or work with companies by trading some skills for a discount, you can definitely come in under 10k (especially since you've already got the wheels). You could get a really nice lift for about 5-7k, and pick up some 37's-40's for another 3-3.5k.

 

[DocMike]

This all day

Lots of really good answers in here. It really just boils down to your overall intended use... or what it would be used for the majority/percentage of the time.

If you take some time to look for deals, or work with companies by trading some skills for a discount, you can definitely come in under 10k (especially since you've already got the wheels). You could get a really nice lift for about 5-7k, and pick up some 37's-40's for another 3-3.5k.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

I had a set of 33x12.50 GY MTRs mounted on 7" wide wheels.

I got 60k miles out of a 5 tire set doing 5 tire rotations. This is equivalent to 48k miles on a 4 tire set. Ran them at about 25 psi. I was even able to sell them for a couple hundred bucks after I was done with them because they were in good shape.

Good on you ??? Most of my MT tires last around 30k. 60k is pretty legendary.
“MOST” 12.5/13.5” wide tires in 37” height when mounted on a 7.5” wheel are going to balloon. Y’all might not notice it the first 5-10 k miles…. But it’s going to happen.
I understand that our uncle Tom’s sister cuz in ram 40x13.5’s on factory tires with their Dana 35’s full send and blah blah…

Any of you can pick and choose what advise you want, or talk yourself into I like the factory wheels with spacers game to run big tires…. It’s your pocketbook. For those that are new and want sound advise- run a 17x8.5/9 for 37”+ tires with withs of 12.5-13.5 and you will not suffer from ballooning and excessive center tread wear.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Good on you ??? Most of my MT tires last around 30k. 60k is pretty legendary.
“MOST” 12.5/13.5” wide tires in 37” height when mounted on a 7.5” wheel are going to balloon. Y’all might not notice it the first 5-10 k miles…. But it’s going to happen.
I understand that our uncle Tom’s sister cuz in ram 40x13.5’s on factory tires with their Dana 35’s full send and blah blah…

Any of you can pick and choose what advise you want, or talk yourself into I like the factory wheels with spacers game to run big tires…. It’s your pocketbook. For those that are new and want sound advise- run a 17x8.5/9 for 37”+ tires with withs of 12.5-13.5 and you will not suffer from ballooning and excessive center tread wear.

Lots of people run 8” wide with the more common 12.50 width. Works just fine. 7.5” is close enough.

Factory wheels are high quality and some people prefer the looks of a factory wheel.

I’ve broke a D35 with only a couple hours on 35s. I’m legendary.

 

[Camaroboi13]

It is absolutely crazy hearing the amount some of you pay for your mods. If I had 10 grand I could do suspension, gearing, wheels and tires, and still have 5 grand left over.

Congrats on getting the 10k “budget” although if you play your cards right you’ll have plenty of money for strippers and cocaine when you’re done

 

[Barnaby’sdad]

It is absolutely crazy hearing the amount some of you pay for your mods. If I had 10 grand I could do suspension, gearing, wheels and tires, and still have 5 grand left over.

Congrats on getting the 10k “budget” although if you play your cards right you’ll have plenty of money for strippers and cocaine when you’re done

That’s the thing…if you’re mechanically inclined or you “know a guy,” your costs drop dramatically. I.e. I installed a BUNCH of mods back in the day for a few beers or a cheap dinner. I’ve known plenty of folks that did the same.

If someone isn’t mechanically inclined and they’re budget limited, it pays to network. There are plenty of folks out there that would be happy to do someone a solid/favor.

Regear though…that’s another level of complexity. I wouldn’t mess with that myself and I don’t know anyone that I’d trust that to. I’d have to outsource that.

 

[Camaroboi13]

That’s the thing…if you’re mechanically inclined or you “know a guy,” your costs drop dramatically. I.e. I installed a BUNCH of mods back in the day for a few beers or a cheap dinner. I’ve known plenty of folks that did the same.

If someone isn’t mechanically inclined and they’re budget limited, it pays to network. There are plenty of folks out there that would be happy to do someone a solid/favor.

Regear though…that’s another level of complexity. I wouldn’t mess with that myself and I don’t know anyone that I’d trust that to. I’d have to outsource that.

I’ll agree with you on the regear, that’s pretty easy to screw up.

But yeah, you can call me mechanically inclined, I hold a few ASE certifications. It took me less than 2 hours to lift myGladiator, I just knocked it out before work earlier in the week. Jeeps are incredibly rudimentary, which makes them very easy to work on.

Outsourcing your equipment is a great way to go, I have a hookup on 37” tires for 740 bucks near me. May not be the greatest brand, but I don’t drive on them daily, I use my stock tires for that. Wheel selection is a choice, provided they have the right offset, they all do the same thing. I got 4xE wheels for 300 bucks locally because I liked the design. So my wheels and tires were 1000 bucks out the door. If you feel the need to spend 4K on wheels and tires it’s your choice, but I promise for 95% of us they won’t help climb rocks any better than the cheap stuff.

As stated above, finding someone local to help out can save thousands, and it’s a good way to find some new Jeep buddies.

 

[WILDHOBO]

It is absolutely crazy hearing the amount some of you pay for your mods. If I had 10 grand I could do suspension, gearing, wheels and tires, and still have 5 grand left over.

Congrats on getting the 10k “budget” although if you play your cards right you’ll have plenty of money for strippers and cocaine when you’re done

Funny post, but the numbers don’t add up anymore. I’ve done major work on older Jeeps as well. Lifts and tires for a CJ or TJ were WAY less expensive than on a JL or JT. I did a 4” lift and five tires, and a t-case lower, on a CJ7 years ago for 2k. Then paid for a regear and solid rear axle shafts and possi for 2,500. The days of regearing and lifting for 5k are long gone. The average lift kit, before steering and adjustable control arms is 2-3k alone. Just in parts. Add tires, steering, control arms, and you’re so far past 5k it’s in the rear view.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Funny post, but the numbers don’t add up anymore. I’ve done major work on older Jeeps as well. Lifts and tires for a CJ or TJ were WAY less expensive than on a JL or JT. I did a 4” lift and five tires, and a t-case lower, on a CJ7 years ago for 2k. Then paid for a regear and solid rear axle shafts and possi for 2,500. The days of regearing and lifting for 5k are long gone. The average lift kit, before steering and adjustable control arms is 2-3k alone. Just in parts. Add tires, steering, control arms, and you’re so far past 5k it’s in the rear view.

35s used to be big and were $200.

My first regear was $1k.

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