Broken tab/weld on Mojave Frame..No Warranty???

[ShadowsPapa]

Can’t really deny that ???

That pic isn't very reassuring..........

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[DailyMoparGuy]

That pic isn't very reassuring..........

I agree. I should give it another inspection soon. That pic was from months ago when there was like 3k miles on the truck…no wheelin, no 33s, all stock lol. That crack is much more pronounced in person, I promise (unfortunately)

 

[mrrthr]

The crack is there when they are manufactured. As the bracket gets flexed from use, the crack can widen and allow the nutsert to spin or pull out, but it’s there from the start.

I just received my Gladiator and it doesn’t look like they come split anymore

 

[CrazyCooter]

Not sure if I posted on this thread already, but I do feel it's the undersized inserts that crush from being also split the aftermarket supplies that is the issue here. If you look at the OE link bushing diameter, it is actually pinched to the bracket, where the aftermarket links sink into the bracket and depend solely on the weak insert.....That obviously tears out!

Here's my quick solution where I just machined some misalignnment spacers out of larger material. I finally took pics during a client build today to illustrate. These are from @Clayton Off Road rear links which I think are some of the nicest in the business, but I just can't bolt these on "as is" feeling like I'm possibly doing a disservice? My truck has 34K miles and at least 1/3 of those off road......My bracket is still hanging in there? Might be on to something?

VS.

For comparison:

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Not sure if I posted on this thread already, but I do feel it's the undersized inserts that crush from being also split the aftermarket supplies that is the issue here. If you look at the OE link bushing diameter, it is actually pinched to the bracket, where the aftermarket links sink into the bracket and depend solely on the weak insert.....That obviously tears out!

Here's my quick solution where I just machined some misalignnment spacers out of larger material. I finally took pics during a client build today to illustrate. These are from @Clayton Off Road rear links which I think are some of the nicest in the business, but I just can't bolt these on "as is" feeling like I'm possibly doing a disservice? My truck has 34K miles and at least 1/3 of those off road......My bracket is still hanging in there? Might be on to something?

VS.

For comparison:

IMO, it doesn't help that the link is hanging out there off the side of the bracket and not between two brackets. There's a lot of force pulling down on the side like sticking a long bar in a hole and pulling down on the end.

That's the sort of thing I've done in other situations where things don't fit as I know they should. There are ways bushings should fit - and ways that they don't always make that.
One example is the CalTracs for my Javelin - I got them and like WTH - no way. So I made bushings - actually "spacers" so the spring bushing could be pinched in place and not pivot but the CalTrac brackets would pivot around the spring bushing shoulder like they should. Had to trim the spring bushing a bit, made the spacers for the traction bar brackets.

We gotta do what we gotta do.

The silver is my spacer that allows the bushing core to be pinched in the frame and held solid as heck, but allow the black bracket to pivot on the bushing core.
I'm not sure what the deal was - incorrect parts or what - but it's taken a heck of a lot of pounding with that dual-quad V8 and no issues.

 

[Hockeydad55]

After reading this article with the upper sway bar mount I just ordered metalcloaks reinforcement and repair brackets Only $79.

 

[hjdca]

After reading this article with the upper sway bar mount I just ordered metalcloaks reinforcement and repair brackets Only $79.

This will fix your current problem, but, if you 4wheel rocks like me, then, you will bend your end links and sway bar tabs.

I finally got sick of the issue and went with the Rock Jock anti-rock rear. Teraflex also makes one that is cheaper. That fixed the issue permanently.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

IMO the JT rear sway bar is trouble just waiting to happen. It's a poor design, weak, and the angles of the forces exerted against it are just wrong.

 

[CrazyCooter]

IMO the JT rear sway bar is trouble just waiting to happen. It's a poor design, weak, and the angles of the forces exerted against it are just wrong.

I could see how one could think that, but then there's me who operates his vehicle 80%+ loaded and 60-70% off road with extended wheel travel. I would say that that properly clamping the link end to the tab is why mine stays together.

I fail to understand how people cant grasp this simple concept? I even inserted pics for those who can't read, too lazy to read, or are just visual learners. No discrimination here......

This is only a weenie 13/16" bar and it's long, to it's not that much force overall when compared to the front.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I could see how one could think that, but then there's me who operates his vehicle 80%+ loaded and 60-70% off road with extended wheel travel. I would say that that properly clamping the link end to the tab is why mine stays together.

I fail to understand how people cant grasp this simple concept? I even inserted pics for those who can't read, too lazy to read, or are just visual learners. No discrimination here......

This is only a weenie 13/16" bar and it's long, to it's not that much force overall when compared to the front.

You have allowed the link to operate like it should is part of the reason yours holds together. And face it - some of the issue out there may not be the Jeep but the guy operating it.......
You may not even think about it because it's 2nd nature to you - just how you think and operate - but subtle differences in how you navigate and negotiate the places you go can matter.
You obviously try to think through problems. You're less likely to have issues is my bet, no matter the vehicle.

And of course, like we were taught in suspension and steering in college, and then the stuff I picked up from the rally guys - ok, backing up a bit - I've seen so many say "I need to upgrade my sway bar to a thicker one" - uh, not necessarily - thinner doesn't always equate to less force. It's a matter of the steel used and the shape, etc.
Some look at a car like my Javelins and insist "you need a rear sway bar!". No, I don't. The sway bar is to correct understeer, oversteer and other issues. But they blindly throw a bar on their car and then complain the suspension design sucks.

No one bothers thinking through things - present company excluded.....

How that bushing, the upper end of the link, is clamped in place and how the bushing is allowed to operate matters. (or not allowed to operate, for that matter)

 

[WILDHOBO]

As frustrating as this is, it’s fixable permanently with $80 brackets from metal cloak. The unbroken one on the other side will be prevented from breaking with the same bracket. You’ll be fixed in 15 minutes.

 

[jeep1]

As frustrating as this is, it’s fixable permanently with $80 brackets from metal cloak. The unbroken one on the other side will be prevented from breaking with the same bracket. You’ll be fixed in 15 minutes.

The Metalcloak braces are great (I have them too) but the force is just transferred to the next weakest part

Moral of the story... carry a set of spare links.

I'm seriously thinking about an Antirock in the back ... they make a nice heavy duty one for the JTs now.

 

[WILDHOBO]

The Metalcloak braces are great (I have them too) but the force is just transferred to the next weakest part

Moral of the story... carry a set of spare links.

I'm seriously thinking about an Antirock in the back ... they make a nice heavy duty one for the JTs now.

I definitely agree. I have spare links with me whenever I off road or tow. They’re cheap and easy to swap.

 

[CrazyCooter]

As frustrating as this is, it’s fixable permanently with $80 brackets from metal cloak. The unbroken one on the other side will be prevented from breaking with the same bracket. You’ll be fixed in 15 minutes.

OR if the manufacturers would just step up and include the correct solution to start with, that bracket maybe wouldn't be needed? Evo, Rubicon Express, Helwig, and Clayton are the ones that Ive dealt with in the shop and they all do it similar. I think Metal Cloak does it to judging by the guy on our Rubicon trip's brackets looking like the bolts were angled and ready to rip out.....

They all overload the insert so it rips out of the bracket....... By your ideology, MC should be awarded a medal for engineering both the problem and the solution at and $80 cost to you? ?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

They all overload the insert so it rips out of the bracket.......

Bingo

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