Thank you for doing the discovery work, made my life a lot easier.Excellent write-up.
I used rubber vacuum hose as opposed to silicone. If I were to do it again, I think the silicone hose maybe be a little easier to work with.
The "trick" to a perfect installation is getting the hose installed to a consistent depth. You don't want to push the hose too far in, but you need to push it in far enough to stop the leak and have it stay in place.
To accomplish this, I made an installation tool. The tool is a piece of 1" OD polyethylene (plastic) pipe cut to a length of about 1.75". Round & smooth the ends with a file & sandpaper. I then wrapped it with blue painter's tape to ensure it would not scratch anything.
Apply the alcohol lube solution and place the hose over the gap. Roll the tool over the hose while applying pressure to push the hose into the gap. I started at the top center of the window and worked my way to each side. Once you get the center started, keep applying lube and moving the tool over about 1/2" and keep working your way to the ends.
The corners are are little tricky because you can't keep the tool flat on the glass. You need to tilt the tool and use the rounded ends to insert the hose.
Just glad I could help.Thank you for doing the discovery work, made my life a lot easier.
I installed mine almost a year ago and it still looks like the day I installed it. The pictures I posted above were taken today.... I hope the tubing holds up in the weather and sun. ...
Just want to thank everyone who posted their ideas for fixing this problem especially ecidiego for the idea and link for the silicone hose. Got mine installed today just going to wait for rain now and hope it stays dry. Supposed to rain Saturday night so hopefully it workedWe all know of the 48 page ( as of 1/20/2023 ) thread about this:
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/roof-leak-in-back.25332/
This thread is ONLY to discuss mitigating this on your own without replacing the window. After the Permatex window sealant method failed even after using 2 entire tubes ( still leaked ), I went with the silicon vacuum hose idea a couple guys posted in that huge thread. Credit to @jac04 who posted about it first, at least I read his post first.
X AUTOHAUX 4.5 Meter 14.76ft Black Silicone Air Hose Pipe Tubing 7mm OD 3mm ID for Car
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BGSK8VTN?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
There are things to know when trying this method:
1. It comes out looking OEM in my opinion.
2. It requires some finesse and patience to stop all the leaks.
My window was leaking all over the place. It has a crack, the factory seal was pinched - total shit work by Jeep at the factory.
Use a squirt bottle with distilled water and an ounce or so of isopropyl alcohol for lube. Different trucks will have different levels of shit work from the factory, so the 7mm OD hose might too much, or not enough, to fit right in yours. This takes patience and several tries sometimes. My first try it leaked everywhere still because i pushed the hose in too far.
Tips:
1. The hose MUST be pushed in "just the right amount". Too far in - it won't seal the top fiberglass and the lower glass edge. It will leak. Not far enough in - it will pop out, won't seal, and look terrible. DON'T stretch the hose while putting it in. The hose needs to be placed totally limp, and "squeezed" in. It will naturally stretch a little as you squeeze it in, but don't pull on the loose end as you go around the perimeter.
2. You will be using the squirt bottle while putting it in. Water will get into the channel. DO NOT LEAK TEST for at least an hour so all of that water can leak inside the truck. Dry it off inside, THEN leak test.
3. Don't spray everywhere, immediately check for leaks, and "hey I am done! no leaks!" They take awhile to wick their way down. My second try, I got it almost just right, but 15 minutes later one little drip showed up. I looked on the exterior where that drip showed up, and noticed a slight bulge in the hose. I didn't push that area in far enough. I SLIGHTY pressed it in, waited 30 minutes, dried the inside, waited thirty minutes, and re tested by spraying. Waited 30 minutes, checked inside - leaks are all gone.
This cost $14.49 to fix and about 4 hours if you add all the "waiting". Just drink beer and watch football. Actual labor - 10 minutes.
Check for leaks periodically. You have to do that even if Jeep replaces your window. Many guys are on their 3rd window. If this doesn't work out, it takes 5 seconds to rip if off. No trace.
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I had the dealership replace it already and started leaking again after a year and now out of warranty and not wanting to spend 2000 to try and fix it againJust a question, why not have a glass company come and replace your window? Thats all the repair is
The sad thing is its probably nothing they did, and the same exact part probably cracked again.I had the dealership replace it already and started leaking again after a year and now out of warranty and not wanting to spend 2000 to try and fix it again
The sad thing is it looks like Jeep finally came up with a fix now using a seal. They should fix all the leaking windows in warranty or not. We paid a lot of money on these vehicles and should get better service from Jeep$14 versus $2000.
Glass company has been doing those, confirmed by calling them. No new part exists.The sad thing is it looks like Jeep finally came up with a fix now using a seal. They should fix all the leaking windows in warranty or not. We paid a lot of money on these vehicles and should get better service from Jeep