ecidiego
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #1
We all know of the 48 page ( as of 1/20/2023 ) thread about this:
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/roof-leak-in-back.25332/
This thread is ONLY to discuss mitigating this on your own without replacing the window. After the Permatex window sealant method failed even after using 2 entire tubes ( still leaked ), I went with the silicon vacuum hose idea a couple guys posted in that huge thread. Credit to @jac04 who posted about it first, at least I read his post first.
X AUTOHAUX 4.5 Meter 14.76ft Black Silicone Air Hose Pipe Tubing 7mm OD 3mm ID for Car
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BGSK8VTN?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
There are things to know when trying this method:
1. It comes out looking OEM in my opinion.
2. It requires some finesse and patience to stop all the leaks.
My window was leaking all over the place. It has a crack, the factory seal was pinched - total shit work by Jeep at the factory.
Use a squirt bottle with distilled water and an ounce or so of isopropyl alcohol for lube. Different trucks will have different levels of shit work from the factory, so the 7mm OD hose might be too much, or not enough, to fit right in yours. This takes patience and several tries sometimes. My first try it leaked everywhere still because i pushed the hose in too far.
Tips:
1. The hose MUST be pushed in "just the right amount". Too far in - it won't seal the top fiberglass and the lower glass edge. It will leak. Not far enough in - it will pop out, won't seal, and look terrible. DON'T stretch the hose while putting it in. The hose needs to be placed totally limp, and "squeezed" in. It will naturally stretch a little as you squeeze it in, but don't pull on the loose end as you go around the perimeter.
2. You will be using the squirt bottle while putting it in. Water will get into the channel. DO NOT LEAK TEST for at least an hour so all of that water can leak inside the truck. Dry it off inside, THEN leak test.
3. Don't spray everywhere, immediately check for leaks, and "hey I am done! no leaks!" They take awhile to wick their way down. My second try, I got it almost just right, but 15 minutes later one little drip showed up. I looked on the exterior where that drip showed up, and noticed a slight bulge in the hose. I didn't push that area in far enough. I SLIGHTY pressed it in, waited 30 minutes, dried the inside, waited thirty minutes, and re tested by spraying. Waited 30 minutes, checked inside - leaks are all gone.
This cost $14.49 to fix and about 4 hours if you add all the "waiting". Just drink beer and watch football. Actual labor - 10 minutes.
Check for leaks periodically. You have to do that even if Jeep replaces your window. Many guys are on their 3rd window. If this doesn't work out, it takes 5 seconds to rip if off. No trace.
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/roof-leak-in-back.25332/
This thread is ONLY to discuss mitigating this on your own without replacing the window. After the Permatex window sealant method failed even after using 2 entire tubes ( still leaked ), I went with the silicon vacuum hose idea a couple guys posted in that huge thread. Credit to @jac04 who posted about it first, at least I read his post first.
X AUTOHAUX 4.5 Meter 14.76ft Black Silicone Air Hose Pipe Tubing 7mm OD 3mm ID for Car
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BGSK8VTN?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
There are things to know when trying this method:
1. It comes out looking OEM in my opinion.
2. It requires some finesse and patience to stop all the leaks.
My window was leaking all over the place. It has a crack, the factory seal was pinched - total shit work by Jeep at the factory.
Use a squirt bottle with distilled water and an ounce or so of isopropyl alcohol for lube. Different trucks will have different levels of shit work from the factory, so the 7mm OD hose might be too much, or not enough, to fit right in yours. This takes patience and several tries sometimes. My first try it leaked everywhere still because i pushed the hose in too far.
Tips:
1. The hose MUST be pushed in "just the right amount". Too far in - it won't seal the top fiberglass and the lower glass edge. It will leak. Not far enough in - it will pop out, won't seal, and look terrible. DON'T stretch the hose while putting it in. The hose needs to be placed totally limp, and "squeezed" in. It will naturally stretch a little as you squeeze it in, but don't pull on the loose end as you go around the perimeter.
2. You will be using the squirt bottle while putting it in. Water will get into the channel. DO NOT LEAK TEST for at least an hour so all of that water can leak inside the truck. Dry it off inside, THEN leak test.
3. Don't spray everywhere, immediately check for leaks, and "hey I am done! no leaks!" They take awhile to wick their way down. My second try, I got it almost just right, but 15 minutes later one little drip showed up. I looked on the exterior where that drip showed up, and noticed a slight bulge in the hose. I didn't push that area in far enough. I SLIGHTY pressed it in, waited 30 minutes, dried the inside, waited thirty minutes, and re tested by spraying. Waited 30 minutes, checked inside - leaks are all gone.
This cost $14.49 to fix and about 4 hours if you add all the "waiting". Just drink beer and watch football. Actual labor - 10 minutes.
Check for leaks periodically. You have to do that even if Jeep replaces your window. Many guys are on their 3rd window. If this doesn't work out, it takes 5 seconds to rip if off. No trace.
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