2023 Sport with Max Tow and Dual Doors, $35k.

[remlemasi]

Thoughts on this 2023 Sport with Max Tow and Dual Doors?

https://www.westcovinacdjr.com/inve...adiator-sport-4x4-crew-cab-1c6jjtag3pl550016/

I had a 2020 JTR for a little over a year before we lemoned it. Maybe looking to get into one again, esp if they can do 2.99% APR.

This Sport with Max Tow has an MSRP of $52.5k, but dealer discount of $9.5k and factory 15% $7.8k brings it down close to $35k.

I know I'll be missing a bunch of stuff that I had in my JTR, but anything else I'm missing before I consider pulling the trigger?

Some thoughts:
--Dual Door Group adds power locks, mirrors, and windows.
--Still no automatic headlights, any way to add it myself?
--Can re-gear and add lockers if I go to 35s... will the anti-spin diff cause any issues with that?
--Anything else that I'll be stuck with and won't be able (or will just cost too much) to upgrade to meet/exceed a Rubi? At $35k for this build, am I better off getting a used Rubi?

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[JRobes]

Keep in mind the MSRP is insanely high to begin with. BUT, $35k is a decent price for a max tow sport with dual doors.

For the locker swap, you'll just pull out the anti spin diff, shouldn't cause any issues. After lockers and a mild lift/bigger tires it'll be a fun/cheapish trail rig.

Not sure on adding the auto on/off headlights, never heard of anyone trying to do that yet on the forums.

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

--Still no automatic headlights, any way to add it myself?

Might want to search, I think it's been attempted. Might be possible, but would likely require a decent amount of hardware, wiring, and possibly coding. If it's a must-have, you may want to consider it a requirement instead of attempting to make it work later.

--Can re-gear and add lockers if I go to 35s... will the anti-spin diff cause any issues with that?

Well, if by lockers you mean front and rear, you lose the LSD in the rear. The popular choice for those with LSD (myself included) is usually to just add a front locker only. LSD has no bearing (pun intended) on re-gearing (besides getting the right set) - I am running 5.13s in my Overland (narrow axle) with rear factory LSD and front Eaton e-locker.

--Anything else that I'll be stuck with and won't be able (or will just cost too much) to upgrade to meet/exceed a Rubi? At $35k for this build, am I better off getting a used Rubi?

Define "exceed a Rubi". I'm sure you know, but it depends solely on how you plan to use it. Besides lockers, there's the sway bar disconnect and suspension. The latter is easily swapped, the former has manual options if you need it.

 

[MattKay]

Have you called West Covina yet? I did in Sept. it was all teaser pricing. Actual price was a lot more.

 

[DailyMoparGuy]

Seems like a solid deal. I love my Sport S Max Tow. That Sport you linked has aux switches too which is nice. I did notice that it doesn’t have the leather steering wheel but maybe I’m just picky about that.

Another thing you’ll be missing with this route is the Rubicon transfer case. Big deal if you’re into crawling. Not so much otherwise to my knowledge. Somewhat not optimal if you ever plan on going the AMW Hemi swap route.

 

[remlemasi]

Might want to search, I think it's been attempted. Might be possible, but would likely require a decent amount of hardware, wiring, and possibly coding. If it's a must-have, you may want to consider it a requirement instead of attempting to make it work later.



Well, if by lockers you mean front and rear, you lose the LSD in the rear. The popular choice for those with LSD (myself included) is usually to just add a front locker only. LSD has no bearing (pun intended) on re-gearing (besides getting the right set) - I am running 5.13s in my Overland (narrow axle) with rear factory LSD and front Eaton e-locker.



Define "exceed a Rubi". I'm sure you know, but it depends solely on how you plan to use it. Besides lockers, there's the sway bar disconnect and suspension. The latter is easily swapped, the former has manual options if you need it.

Yeah, I can live without the automatic headlights, was just wondering.

Good info on keeping the LSD in the rear! Yeah, sway bar disconnect was awesome in the Rubi, just for smoother driving on bumpy fire roads, but I might just go with AntiRock sway bars as I've always been curious...

Suspension:
Short-term, I would do a mild spacer lift and AirLift bags to support a RTT.
Long-term, maybe Fox 2.5 Reservoir shocks or equivalent.

Have you called West Covina yet? I did in Sept. it was all teaser pricing. Actual price was a lot more.

No, I have not. That's really lame...

Seems like a solid deal. I love my Sport S Max Tow. That Sport you linked has aux switches too which is nice. I did notice that it doesn’t have the leather steering wheel but maybe I’m just picky about that.

Another thing you’ll be missing with this route is the Rubicon transfer case. Big deal if you’re into crawling. Not so much otherwise to my knowledge. Somewhat not optimal if you ever plan on going the AMW Hemi swap route.

Yeah, when I saw the steering wheel.... gross... but whatever...

I used to think I needed the Rubi transfer case, but I think the rig will loaded up too much with overland gear and also wife and 2yo baby so I won't be doing much crawling. Lippincott Pass in Death Valley, which I did in the JTR, is likely as sketchy as I'll get.

 

[Hootbro]

That would be a decent deal if that actual pricing held. I guess the Dual Door option puts power windows and locks on a base sport when it otherwise would be all manual controls.

In theory, if one could get it for that price, they could also flip the half doors for a easy $3K or more and bring the cost down even lower.

 

[ALT2870]

If it's a Max Tow it will have the same axles and gearing as the Rubicon so you wouldn't really need to regear for 35's unless you get bothered not always staying in 8th down the highway.

 

[remlemasi]

If it's a Max Tow it will have the same axles and gearing as the Rubicon so you wouldn't really need to regear for 35's unless you get bothered not always staying in 8th down the highway.

That’s fair. I think I was conflating 37s, which I was considering for the JTR at one point.

 

[Kevin_D]

--Still no automatic headlights, any way to add it myself?

See here...

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/acc-adaptive-cruise-retrofit-underway-psa.55305/

Did you mean auto dimming, or just auto on?

Kevin

 

[XJADDICTION]

The S model sport should have auto on headlights just not auto dimming.
I run 3.5 Clayton Overland with 37” BFG KO2s (I know about a 36” tire) but it is perfect with the 4:10 wide axles and big brakes. Off road with the modern traction control mine does do well I haven’t needed to put the lockers in. I have them, just waiting to wear out the bfg KO2s… I’m at 65,000 miles on them, truck is at 106,000 miles. I still have nearly half of the trad left!
the 8 speed auto in low does fine if road with the 37’s.
I had a rubicon before this max tow truck and o have not missed lockers, sway bar dc, or the rubicon transfer car.
loaded with all camping gear, RTT, rack, 10 gallons water, 5 gallons diesel for heater, goal zero 1500 battery pack and jacket 200 etc, I still avg 14 mpg. I.cruise at 75-80mph no problem. Hit a speeding ticket last summer clocked at 110 mph, officer nicely lowered to 90 mph but still got reckless driving ticket attached. I don’t know what I was thinking, so deserved the reckless driving. Point being, the max tow does very well with the 8 speed auto 3.5” lift, rides unbelievably well, 37’s and all the gear even at 106,000 miles on the clock. I have a Mustang slightly built 2013 coyote motored GT convertible and I know what fast is. The JT will cruise all day at 80 mph and not have issues with 37’s bfg ko2 and hills. I would buy the max tow again over the rubby.

I have a winch and I haven’t used it once. I’ve been in plenty of off road rock, mud and sandy trails, plus heavy snow, never an issue never stuck. I do not heavy rock crawl this rig. Then I’d want a bobbed bed, lockers and 4:1 t-case with 5:13 gears in Dana 60 and 80… so again the rubicon wouldn’t be worth the extra price for me ( I will replace everything it came with). My rig is built for moderate rock crawling off roading and overland camping.
It has rubicon rims, rubicon fender flares and rubicon vents for the hood that I haven’t cut into yet. I have dual arb air compressor and arb lockers for the stock max tow axles but I’m probably going to replace motor when it dies and go 60-80 Dana’s with arb and auto sway bar dc for front and done kind of anti-rock in the rear.
I bought this truck early October 2019 and absolutely love it!

PS I do have winter package so heated seats and steering wheel are a must for me. I still fit in 7 foot garage talll door without RTT and awning attached.

 

[Blade1668]

Thoughts on this 2023 Sport with Max Tow and Dual Doors?

https://www.westcovinacdjr.com/inve...adiator-sport-4x4-crew-cab-1c6jjtag3pl550016/

I had a 2020 JTR for a little over a year before we lemoned it. Maybe looking to get into one again, esp if they can do 2.99% APR.

This Sport with Max Tow has an MSRP of $52.5k, but dealer discount of $9.5k and factory 15% $7.8k brings it down close to $35k.

I know I'll be missing a bunch of stuff that I had in my JTR, but anything else I'm missing before I consider pulling the trigger?

Some thoughts:
--Dual Door Group adds power locks, mirrors, and windows.
--Still no automatic headlights, any way to add it myself?
--Can re-gear and add lockers if I go to 35s... will the anti-spin diff cause any issues with that?
--Anything else that I'll be stuck with and won't be able (or will just cost too much) to upgrade to meet/exceed a Rubi? At $35k for this build, am I better off getting a used Rubi?

S###.... if that's a current actually out the door price it sounds good. My 20 Max-Tow is prior to factory "Trac-Loc". It was more than that when I bought it in Jan 20. The hurt feelings "my opinions will do". 4:1 low range is great in some areas but not necessarily in many places and a hinderence, manual shift to 1,2,3 T-case in low range. Auto swaybar disconnect is in that same situation in my experience too. I haven't noticed any people posting problems with them on JT or JL's, but in JK/ JKU's did have some issues. I have actually snapped off a few sets of swaybar links in past on my XJ. The late generations of jeeps are many times better than earlier generations in out of box capability. Possibly better than "TJ Rubicons" straight from dealership (axles, T-case of JT, crawl modes ect).
Many to most are not likely to actually need the Rubicon jump... well the leather seats, audio, front camera and the other features are nice.
The auto headlights?? Auto dimming, I'm assuming you mean. The Max-Tow has some of other features that the Rubicon came with in lights and "big brakes" ?? (I'm not sure there is a difference between brakes on any JT's I ordered replacement brake pads and same parts numbers as all) wide track axles, 4:10 gears. I doubt you will need to re-gear for 35in tires it would probably be still okay for a larger size. If you are going to re-gear to lower gears than 4:56/ 4:88 that's probably time to think about changing axles the pinion gear is getting fairly small and will be running hotter too. The reason why many are running Ford super duty axles. I've got a locker (Rubicon) and a lift kit to install in mine I've had both for over a year now. ?

 

[MPMB]

The S model sport should have auto on headlights just not auto dimming.
I run 3.5 Clayton Overland with 37” BFG KO2s (I know about a 36” tire) but it is perfect with the 4:10 wide axles and big brakes. Off road with the modern traction control mine does do well I haven’t needed to put the lockers in. I have them, just waiting to wear out the bfg KO2s… I’m at 65,000 miles on them, truck is at 106,000 miles. I still have nearly half of the trad left!
the 8 speed auto in low does fine if road with the 37’s.
I had a rubicon before this max tow truck and o have not missed lockers, sway bar dc, or the rubicon transfer car.
loaded with all camping gear, RTT, rack, 10 gallons water, 5 gallons diesel for heater, goal zero 1500 battery pack and jacket 200 etc, I still avg 14 mpg. I.cruise at 75-80mph no problem. Hit a speeding ticket last summer clocked at 110 mph, officer nicely lowered to 90 mph but still got reckless driving ticket attached. I don’t know what I was thinking, so deserved the reckless driving. Point being, the max tow does very well with the 8 speed auto 3.5” lift, rides unbelievably well, 37’s and all the gear even at 106,000 miles on the clock. I have a Mustang slightly built 2013 coyote motored GT convertible and I know what fast is. The JT will cruise all day at 80 mph and not have issues with 37’s bfg ko2 and hills. I would buy the max tow again over the rubby.

I have a winch and I haven’t used it once. I’ve been in plenty of off road rock, mud and sandy trails, plus heavy snow, never an issue never stuck. I do not heavy rock crawl this rig. Then I’d want a bobbed bed, lockers and 4:1 t-case with 5:13 gears in Dana 60 and 80… so again the rubicon wouldn’t be worth the extra price for me ( I will replace everything it came with). My rig is built for moderate rock crawling off roading and overland camping.
It has rubicon rims, rubicon fender flares and rubicon vents for the hood that I haven’t cut into yet. I have dual arb air compressor and arb lockers for the stock max tow axles but I’m probably going to replace motor when it dies and go 60-80 Dana’s with arb and auto sway bar dc for front and done kind of anti-rock in the rear.
I bought this truck early October 2019 and absolutely love it!

PS I do have winter package so heated seats and steering wheel are a must for me. I still fit in 7 foot garage talll door without RTT and awning attached.

I looked at your pics before reading, I thought it was stock except for the bumper and rack. The JT looks the best, imo, with 37s and a 2"+ lift.

Monday is new shoe day. :D

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Can you get both the big rebate and low rate financing?

Seems like they usually want to do one or the other.

 

[MPMB]

S###.... if that's a current actually out the door price it sounds good.

When they've been pushing $50k for the entry trim levels for the past year, anything cheaper looks good.

Willys in '21 were listed around $43k, Sport S w/ MxTw were around $36k, iirc.

Unless it came with a s**tton of dealer upgrades, Sports/Willys should be well under $50k.

Don't fall for "Kohls pricing."

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