How to get proper torque on aftermarket sway bar links?

[fourfa]

I've got these Clayton adjustable front sway bar links on my Rubicon. Quality piece of gear AFAICT, properly adjusted so the bar ends are flat with my lift

Problem is, the factory torque on the uppers is 69 ft-lbs. The aftermarket shanks are round, with no wrench flats on the stud that goes through the bar. Instead it has a little 5mm hex socket:

(This is the lower; the uppers are the same but as they face into the frame, it's hard to get a photo)

I've just been using a 5mm allen key to hold this, while I tighten a wrench as hard as I can and call it good. It's not good enough, as one of these rattled loose on a recent wheeling trip. Not a huge problem, I just had no swaybar for a while while I went to town for more M12x1.5 nuts (got plenty of spares now)

Any ideas on how to build up proper torque here though? Seems certain to rattle loose eventually, until I do. 69 ft-lbs on a 5mm bit seems sure to deform either the hex socket, or the bit, or both. I'm already bending the allen key with far less than that... No wrench flats anywhere. It's extra hard to get anything but an allen key into the tight space between the upper stud and the frame. Drilling for a cotter pin or safety wire seems risky, as it's hollow already. Grind wrench flats on the shank? Loctite? Stake the end threads? Different links?

Any ideas welcome

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[Lunentucker]

Get hex key sockets for your torque wrench.
From the instruction - " Step 11: Torque all nuts, bolts and jam nuts to 60 ft-lb."
Add some blue or purple Loctite.
I'd also contact Clayton. The jam nut should be bearing the torque loads, not the hex socketed bolt.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3...it-Socket-Set-7-Piece-H3DMM7PCHBSSR/203559457

https://www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-Socket-Drive-Piece-CMMT17735V/dp/B0B5KBJ33Q/r

 

[kevman65]

Is there a set of flats right at the boot?

 

[MPMB]

If u get socket allens, it’s easy. Or- Blue loctite, assemble, and double nut the bolt.

 

[Rusty PW]

Use a crows foot on your torque wrench and torque the nut, not the stud. Use the allen just to keep the stud from turning. That's what i did on mine.

 

[fourfa]

There are no flats at the boot.

I have allen sockets. The problem, which isn't obvious from the scale of the photos, is that the 5mm allen is TINY. 69 ft-lbs is a lot to ask of the wee thing.

(The jam nuts are on the threaded rod which you cut to length and fix, those are well and truly solid and are not the problem. The heim joint that attaches to the sway bar end is the problem. Perhaps I wasn't clear enough about that)

I'll try again. If I lift the chassis, the upper end should rotate down and away from the frame so I can get the allen socket into the upper stud, then torque with a crow's foot

 

[drewcnit]

Use a crows foot on your torque wrench and torque the nut, not the stud. Use the allen just to keep the stud from turning. That's what i did on mine.

^^ This. I did the same thing using these -
3/8-in-drive-metric-professional-crowfoot-wrench-set-10-piece

 

[Rusty PW]

^^ This. I did the same thing using these -
3/8-in-drive-metric-professional-crowfoot-wrench-set-10-piece

Yep.

 

[Lunentucker]

Even without a crows foot, you could set the torque wrench to the desired torque and apply it to a control arm bolt to get a decent feel for how much effort it takes. Then take that muscle memory over to the swaybar link and snug it down with a box end.

 

[kevman65]

Or, turn it until it breaks, back off 1/4 turn.

 

[Rusty PW]

Or, turn it until it breaks, back off 1/4 turn.

 

[kevman65]

That's torqued too tight, back off a full turn........

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