Will my wheels not work with new Clayton Overland + kit

[SargeGreenRubiD]

So I just ordered a the complete Clayton overland plus 2.5 lift kit for my Diesel Rubi. I’m concerned now bc I’m running a Black Rhino Arsenal 17 x8 +30 offset with I believe is 5.68 backspacing. The tire is a nitto ridge grappler 35/ 12.5. I have no issues on the stock truck, is it not going to work with my lift ??

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[Main Line Willys]

I don’t recall seeing anything mentioning specific offset for Clayton lifts.

I just had the 1.5 Ride Rite on my ‘22 Rubicon.
I am running some JK take offs with 34’s

 

[Apothum]

I recently reached out to them asking about what fits the 2.5 overland kit and this was their reply.

Q:
> I'm planning to purchase a 2.5" Overland+ JT package for my 2023 Gladiator Rubicon. I've chosen Method 703s (17x8.5) and intend to fit 37x12.5r17 KO2s. Could you recommend the minimum offset required for this setup? Options available are 0mm and +25mm.

A:
> Hello. We recommend a 4.75 backspacing for a 35-37x12.5. The +25 is 5.73, which is NOT enough. But the 0 is the 4.75 so that should be a perfect fit. FYI 6.25 is normally stock


There are super friendly and responsive. If you have a specific set up, I would reach out. this is not about the diesel kit so I don’t know if there’s any difference.

 

[SargeGreenRubiD]

I don’t recall seeing anything mentioning specific offset for Clayton lifts.

I just had the 1.5 Ride Rite on my ‘22 Rubicon.
I am running some JK take offs with 34’s

I didn’t see anything about the requirements on the diesel lift page. Then I saw some threads about rubbing issues, not sure if that’s JL specific or what. They were saying I needed a 4.5 backspace ?

 

[SargeGreenRubiD]

I recently reached out to them asking about what fits the 2.5 overland kit and this was their reply.

Q:
> I'm planning to purchase a 2.5" Overland+ JT package for my 2023 Gladiator Rubicon. I've chosen Method 703s (17x8.5) and intend to fit 37x12.5r17 KO2s. Could you recommend the minimum offset required for this setup? Options available are 0mm and +25mm.

A:
> Hello. We recommend a 4.75 backspacing for a 35-37x12.5. The +25 is 5.73, which is NOT enough. But the 0 is the 4.75 so that should be a perfect fit. FYI 6.25 is normally stock


There are super friendly and responsive. If you have a specific set up, I would reach out. this is not about the diesel kit so I don’t know if there’s any difference.

Welp I’m fucked then. God that’s frustrating. Wasn’t expecting to have to spend another couple grand on wheels. I really hate to use a wheel spacer like a bro dozer but I don’t know what choice I have

 

[Apothum]

Welp I’m fucked then. God that’s frustrating. Wasn’t expecting to have to spend another couple grand on wheels. I really hate to use a wheel spacer like a bro dozer but I don’t know what choice I have

Hard to know, maybe the rub is only at extreme flex or something? Depending on what you are doing I wonder if it’s even a problem. Probably someone on here who knows much more than me that could give a better opinion. I’d reach out for confirmation of your fucked-ness before sending on new wheels.

 

[kevman65]

@Clayton Off Road

That should get them to respond here. They can answer your question.

 

[SargeGreenRubiD]

Hard to know, maybe the rub is only at extreme flex or something? Depending on what you are doing I wonder if it’s even a problem. Probably someone on here who knows much more than me that could give a better opinion. I’d reach out for confirmation of your fucked-ness before sending on new wheels.

Yea I went ahead and ordered the spacers from Clayton’s website just incase ? Hopefully the 1.5 spacer is enough and doesn’t compromise anything.

 

[JTDay]

Manufacturers, Clayton, AEV, Synergy, and more, all say you need 0ish offset wheels but after two years of owning my truck, I haven't seen a good explanation for why this is. 35s work on factory suspension but not a lift? I don't get it it.

 

[SargeGreenRubiD]

Manufacturers, Clayton, AEV, Synergy, and more, all say you need 0ish offset wheels but after two years of owning my truck, I haven't seen a good explanation for why this is. 35s work on factory suspension but not a lift? I don't get it it.

Ya I’m not sure either, I know the Clayton control arms have the curve in them like the factory ones. I just didn’t have a clue about the backspacing, my fault for not doing more research.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

Welp I’m fucked then. God that’s frustrating. Wasn’t expecting to have to spend another couple grand on wheels. I really hate to use a wheel spacer like a bro dozer but I don’t know what choice I have

1.5” spacers will get you what you need.
Spacers aren’t the end of the world- buy QUALITY spacers that are hub centric and there is no difference… quality spacers will have instructions- put lock tight on and torque to spec. Mark the spacer lugs with a paint pen, verify every 3-5k miles (whatever your tire rotation regiment is…)

The horror story’s you read and see are from trash spacers, not hub centric or idiots who can’t follow instructions and torque properly. Literally lived just north of Johnson Valley for a good while, lots of jeeps and trucks with spacer and 37” tires…. Before I went to beadlocks on my JK we ran 37’s with 1.5” spacers for 3 years?? Beat the piss out of the jk… ??‍

 

[SargeGreenRubiD]

1.5” spacers will get you what you need.
Spacers aren’t the end of the world- buy QUALITY spacers that are hub centric and there is no difference… quality spacers will have instructions- put lock tight on and torque to spec. Mark the spacer lugs with a paint pen, verify every 3-5k miles (whatever your tire rotation regiment is…)

The horror story’s you read and see are from trash spacers, not hub centric or idiots who can’t follow instructions and torque properly. Literally lived just north of Johnson Valley for a good while, lots of jeeps and trucks with spacer and 37” tires…. Before I went to beadlocks on my JK we ran 37’s with 1.5” spacers for 3 years?? Beat the piss out of the jk… ??‍

Well that’s reassuring. I’ll make sure they are on properly. I bought the hubcentric ones right off the Clayton site bc I figure they wouldn’t sell poor quality ones.

 

[mx5red]

Seems like a lot of people post pictures of their tucked in wheels, also remember AEV wheels are +25mm offset and they don’t rub with stock arms.
I think manufacturers put in a pretty big safety buffer so people don’t complain if there’s an issue.
Other control arms don’t have a bend so tires may rub them. Tires may get into fender liners with extreme flex from aftermarket arms. If upgrading tie rods there may be not as much room, etc.

Personally I don’t believe there would be much of an issue with Rubi axles, more likely to have issues with narrower axles.
Remember as you go bigger tires it moves it inward towards all that suspension, that’s the problem.

 

[CrazyCooter]

4.75/0 is preferred with 37s especially if you plan to actually trim the bump spacers to dial in max flex. This also gives you room for front shocks like the 2.5 Elite or SDi Ecliks.

I did a built not long ago where the guy had already purchased the +25s and I had to make him a 1/2" spacer to clear the front shock resi's and rear Anitrock bar after I optimized for max travel.

If you just install the lift as is with the supplied parts and 35s, you will probably be fine with your wheels.

 

[whysoserious]

So I just ordered a the complete Clayton overland plus 2.5 lift kit for my Diesel Rubi. I’m concerned now bc I’m running a Black Rhino Arsenal 17 x8 +30 offset with I believe is 5.68 backspacing. The tire is a nitto ridge grappler 35/ 12.5. I have no issues on the stock truck, is it not going to work with my lift ??

I have a Metal Cloak 3.5" GC with the exact same wheels with Mickey AT's. As it sits on the ground, driving around town, I have zero rub. I have not had the opportunity to "flex" it yet, but a visual seems to indicate plenty of clearance.

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