35” vs. 37” tires and belly scraping

[Zachanadandy]

35s vs 37s isn't a huge difference, but 1.5" more lift plus the 1" from the tires is huge. The departure and breakover angle difference vs stock is like wheeling a different vehicle. 2" lift and 37s on my mojave is so much better than the stock Mojave and 33s. Didn't add skids, but it's my desert rig. We take the wife's JLUR on 3.5" lift, 39s, and full metalcloak belly skids if we want to play in the rocks. The v6 and 4.10s are fine with the 37s in my opinion. Just got back from a 1200+ mile road trip and I appreciate the 2100rpms in 8th gear at 85mph. I don't care if it stays in 7th gear when there's a heavy head wind. It's still an overdrive gear equal to the top gear of a jk. I don't see the point of gearing so low the Jeep is always in 8th gear but different strokes for different folks.

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[tom.mary.glad]

35s vs 37s isn't a huge difference, but 1.5" more lift plus the 1" from the tires is huge. The departure and breakover angle difference vs stock is like wheeling a different vehicle. 2" lift and 37s on my mojave is so much better than the stock Mojave and 33s. Didn't add skids, but it's my desert rig. We take the wife's JLUR on 3.5" lift, 39s, and full metalcloak belly skids if we want to play in the rocks. The v6 and 4.10s are fine with the 37s in my opinion. Just got back from a 1200+ mile road trip and I appreciate the 2100rpms in 8th gear at 85mph. I don't care if it stays in 7th gear when there's a heavy head wind. It's still an overdrive gear equal to the top gear of a jk. I don't see the point of gearing so low the Jeep is always in 8th gear but different strokes for different folks.

Thanks for the details. I’m leaning heavily to get 37s but would go 35s to avoid additional wear and tear if enough experienced people told me 35s are good enough.
You have a nice rig!

 

[Zachanadandy]

Thanks for the details. I’m leaning heavily to get 37s but would go 35s to avoid additional wear and tear if enough experienced people told me 35s are good enough.
You have a nice rig!

Thanks, I don't think the wear and tear is all that different. Definitely not enough for me to worry about it. Our 2019 JLUR got 35k miles on 37s out of the stock ball joints. The 2022 JLUR got 30k miles on 39s, is 5k miles enough to even debate a tire size? Not for me.

 

[Camaroboi13]

Thanks for the details. I’m leaning heavily to get 37s but would go 35s to avoid additional wear and tear if enough experienced people told me 35s are good enough.
You have a nice rig!

35s ARE enough to get you through most situations. It’s only a 1” difference on the ground. But if you park next to another Gladiator and you have 35s vs their 37s, you’re going to want those bigger tires. They just fit like they’re supposed to, not too big and not too small. I love my 37s but I would go 38s if they were more affordable. 37s just look the part if you ask me.

 

[tom.mary.glad]

I have the Clayton 3.5" lift with 37" tires.

All in terms of what I hit the most on the boulders ---

Rear control arm skids and rear diff skid are hit the most. It is much easier to place the front tires on the boulders than it is the rear -- which are so far back and you usually have to turn.. .. lol..

then, front control arm skids, front diff skid, and finally engine, tranny, transfer case skid last.

I would get them all, but, here is the order of how often I am touching up the paint on all my skid plates.

PS. Also, all mine are Steel, and I am glad I went with that material. Much less denting and deforming. You can see the build link in my signature for more skids info.

Great info. Thanks!

 

[hjdca]

Great info. Thanks!

NP... Also, here where I live in the Southern California Mountains, Gladiators with the Mopar lift and 35 inch tires get hung up way more than 3.5" lift with 37 inch tires... The harder trails and Jeep badge of honor trails just seem to require those extra couple of inches. I know it does not sound like much, but, it actually is a big difference in the trails out here.

After doing 40K miles on my setup (made the upgrades at 20K miles), with lots of tough 4wheeling miles, my opinion is that the Gladiator is capable of managing 37" tires and the 3.5" lift without breakage and without major upgrades - except I would replace the front drive shaft, Steering Stablizer, tie rod, & drag link. Also, If you keep the wheels (ie. 17x8.5 Method Bead Grips) and 37" tires light weight --- all the better to combat any breakage.

 

[tom.mary.glad]

NP... Also, here where I live in the Southern California Mountains, Gladiators with the Mopar lift and 35 inch tires get hung up way more than 3.5" lift with 37 inch tires... The harder trails and Jeep badge of honor trails just seem to require those extra couple of inches. I know it does not sound like much, but, it actually is a big difference in the trails out here.

After doing 40K miles on my setup (made the upgrades at 20K miles), with lots of tough 4wheeling miles, my opinion is that the Gladiator is capable of managing 37" tires and the 3.5" lift without breakage and without major upgrades - except I would replace the front drive shaft, Steering Stablizer, tie rod, & drag link. Also, If you keep the wheels (ie. 17x8.5 Method Bead Grips) and 37" tires light weight --- all the better to combat any breakage.

What do you consider "light" 37" tires. My local shop recommends Toyo or Nitto. I'm a newbie so not familiar or experienced with either. I want as quiet as possible on road and good wet traction on road.

 

[PlayfulBird]

Portal axles
you want the cake and eat it too
So get Portals and some chill AT Falken of Geolandar

 

[tom.mary.glad]

Portal axles
you want the cake and eat it too
So get Portals and some chill AT Falken of Geolandar

Don't portals cost like $25k?
And you still need a lift?

 

[hjdca]

What do you consider "light" 37" tires. My local shop recommends Toyo or Nitto. I'm a newbie so not familiar or experienced with either. I want as quiet as possible on road and good wet traction on road.

Then, you will want an "all-Terrain" tire for quiet and good on road wet traction.

For a 37x12.5x17 tire, any tire 80 lbs or less is "light". For a 8.5x17 rim, under 30 lbs is considered "light". I like aggressive big lug tires, so called, "mud-terrains". I am currently running the Yokamaha Geolandars MT G003 and they run approx. 77 lbs., and they have been great for the last 30K miles. I can recommend them. Also, the all terrain tires are usually lighter than the mud-terrain tires. Nittos run heavier, but, are great tires. The Nitto Trail Grapplers M/T (mud terrains) in the same size are 88 lbs. If you look up the tires you want on America's/Discount tire, you can see the weight.

Note: Rotating and rebalancing the tires every 5K to 6K miles will make them last twice as long. I buy my tires from Americas tire/Discount tire because they offer free re-balancing and rotation for the life of the tires.

Note: I forgot to mention that the 37" tires will hurt your acceleration if you do not get lower gears for the front and rear differentials. I run 5:13s. This is a big expense. So, if that concerns you and you already have 4:10 gears (Rubicon), then, the 35's will not lose as much acceleration. If you do not 4wheel much, and do not do rock crawling, then, that is a good enough reason to stay with 35" tires.

 

[tom.mary.glad]

Then, you will want an "all-Terrain" tire for quiet and good on road wet traction.

For a 37x12.5x17 tire, any tire 80 lbs or less is "light". For a 8.5x17 rim, under 30 lbs is considered "light". I like aggressive big lug tires, so called, "mud-terrains". I am currently running the Yokamaha Geolandars MT G003 and they run approx. 77 lbs., and they have been great for the last 30K miles. I can recommend them. Also, the all terrain tires are usually lighter than the mud-terrain tires. Nittos run heavier, but, are great tires. The Nitto Trail Grapplers M/T (mud terrains) in the same size are 88 lbs. If you look up the tires you want on America's/Discount tire, you can see the weight.

Note: Rotating and rebalancing the tires every 5K to 6K miles will make them last twice as long. I buy my tires from Americas tire/Discount tire because they offer free re-balancing and rotation for the life of the tires.

Note: I forgot to mention that the 37" tires will hurt your acceleration if you do not get lower gears for the front and rear differentials. I run 5:13s. This is a big expense. So, if that concerns you and you already have 4:10 gears (Rubicon), then, the 35's will not lose as much acceleration. If you do not 4wheel much, and do not do rock crawling, then, that is a good enough reason to stay with 35" tires.

I have a sport with max tow. So, 4.10 gears. Local shop here in TX says it might be OK with 37s. They suggest drive it and regear later if you feel too much power is lost.

 

[hjdca]

I have a sport with max tow. So, 4.10 gears. Local shop here in TX says it might be OK with 37s. They suggest drive it and regear later if you feel too much power is lost.

You live in Texas, so, no moutains and hills, so, you might be OK. So yeah, try it first.... In my neck of the woods, we are constantly climbing hills and mountains, so, a gear swap was required.

 

[GMag]

Some good advice here but ultimately your level of interest in wheeling and choice of terrain will determine the best setup for you. I was one of the ones who bought a 2.5" lift and 35"s because my truck was expensive and I wasn't sure I wanted to hit the "Hard trails in So Cal" with it. I thought that was best for mixed on and off-road use. Now less than 15K miles later those parts are sitting in my garage waiting for a buyer and my truck wears a 3.5" Clayton lift and sits on 37"s and I still find myself wondering how much better I would do on 38"s, 39"s, or even 40"S. It can be never-ending but the truth of the matter in my case and with my local terrain is that with the 3.5", 37"s and an assortment of skid plates, I have done all the BOH and Most Difficult trails around. Not familiar with your area or the local trails but if I had to start over, I would go straight to 37"s as most the local guys said I should. My recommendation would be talk to the locals at the shops and in clubs in your area and see what they are running.

This is Mottino wash (aka the reason I went from 2.5" to 3.5")

 

[mx5red]

Some good advice here but ultimately your level of interest in wheeling and choice of terrain will determine the best setup for you. I was one of the ones who bought a 2.5" lift and 35"s because my truck was expensive and I wasn't sure I wanted to hit the "Hard trails in So Cal" with it. I thought that was best for mixed on and off-road use. Now less than 15K miles later those parts are sitting in my garage waiting for a buyer and my truck wears a 3.5" Clayton lift and sits on 37"s and I still find myself wondering how much better I would do on 38"s, 39"s, or even 40"S. It can be never-ending but the truth of the matter in my case and with my local terrain is that with the 3.5", 37"s and an assortment of skid plates, I have done all the BOH and Most Difficult trails around. Not familiar with your area or the local trails but if I had to start over, I would go straight to 37"s as most the local guys said I should. My recommendation would be talk to the locals at the shops and in clubs in your area and see what they are running.

This is Mottino wash (aka the reason I went from 2.5" to 3.5")

Getting your moneys worth out of those Rock Hard sliders?

 

[smlobx]

35s ARE enough to get you through most situations. It’s only a 1” difference on the ground. But if you park next to another Gladiator and you have 35s vs their 37s, you’re going to want those bigger tires. They just fit like they’re supposed to, not too big and not too small. I love my 37s but I would go 38s if they were more affordable. 37s just look the part if you ask me.

Correct me if I’m wrong but doesn’t a Sport come standard with 31” tires so going to 35’s will result in a 2 in net lift..

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