RTT and canopy turned camper

[chorky]

I have made the decision. It is happening. Thanks to @WILDHOBO for the encouragement to go wild and crazy. Also thanks to inspiration from @Mules who has a great thread of good info (page-39) and @Dan Grec.

I love my tent, aside form the mold situation. I also really like my canopy, despite the company no longer existing and the canopy weighing probably twice what it is listed at. One thing I have not liked is that they are not one. The All-cab is a great option, along with camp ovrlnd, Top Toppers, Super pacific, and the dozens of other great options. However, they leave something to be desired that, thus far, only @Mules has accomplished. Well @Dan Grec too, in a way, but not on a Gladiator platform. I did look at and considered composites from Total Composites, similar to what @Dan Grec is doing but without having good support in my area, and zero experience, going the composite route is just too much for now. I would love to have a gladiator sized Tiger (https://www.tigervehicles.com/) but likely they are not interested in building on a Gladiator platform.

So, up to my own ideas it is. I really like what @Mules has done and it is similar to what I have thought about from day one. Well I think I am just going to go for it. It shouldn't be too difficult.

The overall idea is to merge the two together to create a similar situation that @Mules has, without the fiberglas work.

From the moment I purchased the tent, and pre-measuring everything, it appears I can easily cut the top of the canopy, bottom of the tent out, merge the tent directly to the canopy, which will leave maybe 1-1.5 inches between cab top and tent.

I could try and make a little fiberglas lip to attach a standard seal on that then presses tight against the tent to prevent water intrusion.

As for mating the canopy and top together, I was looking at this (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097Z2SKM...XO9WGFCU5&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1) just moments before @Mules sent me this




Not only would this allow the option to sit inside a heated place with legroom, but it would also likely help prevent future mold issues on the tent fabric - and at the least offer an easier ability to open and dry it out.

I also have ideas on how to mount one of these https://www.amazon.com/Dickinson-Ne...refix=dickenson+marine+p9000,tools,210&sr=1-1
I modified and mounted one of these to the inside of my 19' travel trailer that I lived out of for 5 years, 3 of which were in Montana with winter temps down to -30, and it worked very well. My favorite part about it is not so much the ambiance, but the quiet and dry heat it provides.

So hopefully this begins relatively soon, and is as easy and straight forward as it is in my brain. But we all know things always seem to take at least 4 times longer than expected. As long as it happens before the Homeward trek this year all will be fine.

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[Mules]

I have made the decision. It is happening. Thanks to @WILDHOBO for the encouragement to go wild and crazy. Also thanks to inspiration from @Mules who has a great thread of good info (page-39) and @Dan Grec.

I love my tent, aside form the mold situation. I also really like my canopy, despite the company no longer existing and the canopy weighing probably twice what it is listed at. One thing I have not liked is that they are not one. The All-cab is a great option, along with camp ovrlnd, Top Toppers, Super pacific, and the dozens of other great options. However, they leave something to be desired that, thus far, only @Mules has accomplished. Well @Dan Grec too, in a way, but not on a Gladiator platform. I did look at and considered composites from Total Composites, similar to what @Dan Grec is doing but without having good support in my area, and zero experience, going the composite route is just too much for now. I would love to have a gladiator sized Tiger (https://www.tigervehicles.com/) but likely they are not interested in building on a Gladiator platform.

So, up to my own ideas it is. I really like what @Mules has done and it is similar to what I have thought about from day one. Well I think I am just going to go for it. It shouldn't be too difficult.

The overall idea is to merge the two together to create a similar situation that @Mules has, without the fiberglas work.

From the moment I purchased the tent, and pre-measuring everything, it appears I can easily cut the top of the canopy, bottom of the tent out, merge the tent directly to the canopy, which will leave maybe 1-1.5 inches between cab top and tent.

I could try and make a little fiberglas lip to attach a standard seal on that then presses tight against the tent to prevent water intrusion.

As for mating the canopy and top together, I was looking at this (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097Z2SKM...XO9WGFCU5&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1) just moments before @Mules sent me this




Not only would this allow the option to sit inside a heated place with legroom, but it would also likely help prevent future mold issues on the tent fabric - and at the least offer an easier ability to open and dry it out.

I also have ideas on how to mount one of these https://www.amazon.com/Dickinson-Newport-Propane-Direct-Heater/dp/B00TZ6U1LI/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2ZXSONCZT732Q&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.XVD5trUBt0DIdichfB85Ww.OQHJ0iz1nRCVwczyID5BAd-Y2gC-5Ynai3lBXb9xfiw&dib_tag=se&keywords=dickinson+marine+p9000&qid=1712717058&s=hi&sprefix=dickenson+marine+p9000,tools,210&sr=1-1
I modified and mounted one of these to the inside of my 19' travel trailer that I lived out of for 5 years, 3 of which were in Montana with winter temps down to -30, and it worked very well. My favorite part about it is not so much the ambiance, but the quiet and dry heat it provides.

So hopefully this begins relatively soon, and is as easy and straight forward as it is in my brain. But we all know things always seem to take at least 4 times longer than expected. As long as it happens before the Homeward trek this year all will be fine.

Looking forward to watching this build!

 

[Dan Grec]

I can't wait to see this come together!!

-Dan

 

[Jaxmax]

If anyone can pull it off Chad can! Actually a great idea…Jack

 

[HooliganActual]

As for mating the canopy and top together, I was looking at this (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097Z2SKM...XO9WGFCU5&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1) just moments before @Mules sent me this

Man! Every time I watch the van-lifers use these accordion seals to do their cab to living space pass-throughs I think to myself, "You could do this between the RTT and the canopy'. The Redtail Overland Skyloft RTT does something similar to allow pass-through to a sun roof. So jealous! I'll be watching and wishing you the best!!!

 

[chorky]

Man! Every time I watch the van-lifers use these accordion seals to do their cab to living space pass-throughs I think to myself, "You could do this between the RTT and the canopy'. The Redtail Overland Skyloft RTT does something similar to allow pass-through to a sun roof. So jealous! I'll be watching and wishing you the best!!!

Yeah man is it a tough decision. One thing about the pass-through on any vehicle that is a huge downfall is the extra noise. I have heard a lot of van-lifers talk about that, or those with the big fancy RV's. Every clank of your dishes in the back can be heard up front. So one has to really think about vibrations, securing items, padding, etc.. Fortunately so far with my build there really has not been anything in the bed that has bounced around and clunked. Just about everything I have is in some way secured. The one item that could use it a bit more is the water heater.

 

[chorky]

Since much of this inspiration has come from @Mules project, I wanted to steel from his thread to discuss a few topics while I wait on answers from a fabricator and develop/design the layout.

Since I don't have rendering skills, or CAD, I stole this drawing above to reference from. I like the overall idea of the layout, although I would want to flip flop the seating area to the drivers side. This is because my fridge is already located on the passenger side, as is the water system. But having a L shaped bench or seating area that can be converted into a bed platform is a great idea! Also having that seating platform extend into the cab, seeing as how there will be a pass-through, just allows a little bit more room without feeling so cramped. Although, seeing as how my awning is on the driver side, it would be nice to have the view from the inside also facing out the driver side windows to have the same viewing as when sitting outside. This actually could make it easier in the sense that I wouldn't have to come up with a fancy cabinet that allows access into the fridge, and the fridge itself could serve as part of a bench. Hmm...

And it’s pretty easy to jump in and out of the back seat doors.

This right here is a fantastic idea. And I really like the last photo as it highlights just how much space is opened up by creating a passthrough. I think @Mules and I probably share similarities with bodily pains. Climbing into the canopy through the tailgate is quite painful, and slow. I do it often as there is no other choice to build things, but if there was another option it would be preferred. Obviously I already have a canopy, and it is doubtful that the LEER canopies that have the rear door option would be strong enough for my needs. Additionally, doing that would remove the rear camera which I have come to love and use a lot to reduce neck strain. But there is one pretty significant problem here with this idea of using the rear seat area for entry. Storage.

As you can see here, I already have a full, tall version, of a rear seat delete. Now, I could cut out a portion of the plywood to allow for an area to climb into for access. But doing that would take away a pretty significant portion of storage. I do suppose one could opt to throw things on the passenger front seat, but then it requires constantly moving things around, which goes against one of the primary purposes of my particular build. Then again, pictured here is only a temporary mounting for the emergency kits, and the plastic ARB box is going away for a different air hose storage option.

This is something that definitely needs consideration though, as entering from the driver side passenger seat would be fantastic. Another thing needing consideration is height. I don't want to continue increasing height too much as it will restrict visibility in addition to increase center of gravity. So having a roof tall shelf that prevents me looking out the back window really isn't a great idea. There is a solution here somewhere though. This little cubby area here on the driver side is currently a storage spot for extra boots/shoes, which could easily enough get relocated into the bed somewhere, which would then allow this spot to be opened up as a step.

I don't know if I'm up for the challenge, but wouldn't this be a nice interior for my Gladiator.

I have always been attracted to this kind of setup because it is so clean and keeps things in their place. But this kind of setup really is not great for quick access of various things like tools, saws, recovery gear, etc... Therefore, offering interior seating/cooking/eating/sleeping options is going to be the most difficult aspect for my setup. So I will probably opt for a more 'open' modular style like what many do with their Alu-Cab setup, one example pictured in the quote below.

If you recall I currently have water and fridge on the passenger side, dry food and cooking items on the driver side, and recovery gear on the driver side ledge. The recovery gear can fairly easily be relocated to sit on top of the batteries, although it would make access more difficult. I don't use recovery gear often, but when it is needed usually quick and easy access is better. And a seating/sleeping platform can go the majority of the length of the bed and going into the cab area on the driver side in place of the current recovery gear, possibly using some hinges that lift up from the canopy side access door to grab at recovery gear, saw, ax, etc... As for the kitchen items and dry food storage. That could probably be relocated by adding some legs to the box to lift it up and slide it closer to the left side of the bed/canopy, or over to the right on top of the fridge. One attractive option is creating a sliding counter top on the right side so that the fridge can still be accessible from inside the canopy.

There are also a few other factors that will need to be dealt with. Things like, the water heater being mounted inside, as well as the propane tanks. Both of which are not ideal, but can possibly work fine with some safety measures taken into consideration. The most difficult aspect to figure out though will be the cooking surface. Of course during the summer, it is nice to cook outside - hence the fridge slide with the addition of the unfinished sink/cook top. But that is not very accessible when the tailgate is closed, and I really don't want to double up and have two sinks and two counter top areas. I think what it will end up resulting to is deciding to always cook outside, being cold in the winter, or inside, being hot in the summer.

In either case, these are just some thinking out-loud ideas to consider different setup options.

 

[Jaxmax]

I think you have to step back disregard anything you have or have installed and start with a clean slate to come up with what will become the best for you, then look at your pile of stuff and figure it out. One thing ,always think of driving visibility and stuff like ease of use. I would think entering from the rear seat area would be cool but perhaps the passenger side is better as when driving you would still have rear visibility, and picture the drivers side with a top to bottom cabinet with storage inside and outside with a divider between them down the center and giving you storage through the driver side door for rescue gear and other stuff, and on the inside perhaps clothes , food or whatever…….Jack

 

[chorky]

I am definitely not planning on rushing this. Although I would love to have it ready for this summer, more realistically it will be next winter's project. It makes sense about 'starting over' but I hope to find a way to not have to completely do that since it is costly and time consuming. But it did encourage me to take a look at a few things.

Looking at the rear seat delete yesterday I realized the space I can cut out is about the same size as the window covering I have - meaning the 'step' would be about the size of the rear passenger window.

This also allows for the portion to the right where the bottle and backpack is to be a secondary step 'up' into the camper area so that it is easier getting into the bed.

This area here is where I could relocate the suitcase to. The current stored items here is temporary. But I have about 20 inches of height from the top of the seat delete platform and the bottom of the window. So I could create a small secondary shelf for storage of items below, as well as placing my clothes bag on top. As long as it does not go above the bottom of the window, I would not loose any visibility. I agree with you @Jaxmax, that visibility is important and I don't want that hampered at all. Usually in this spot I have a box or two of camping items like flashlight, lantern, fire-pit (these are awesome https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YS91Z2...01DZNUUG&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it). And since the black ARB plastic box is going away, and the first aid and flair kit's need to be in a better location, it leaves some ample room for storage.

The are below I previously used as storage for fishing gear. But I think this is a good spot to put a box that houses tools. I need to find a good tool storage solution and relocation for the bottle jack, have yet to find one. But if I can find a way to store tools in a plastic box that will fit in this spot on the floor without making clanking noises, that would be perfect - and it would relieve some of the weight on the rear axle. Tools really should not need to be consistently accessed and thus can be stored away some. In fact, depending on the tool storage option I find, I could even put them in the cubby behind where that blue shop towel is. Currently that is only occupied by the shop towel, scissor jack, and AEV jack base.

The larger issue I will have is sorting out the bed storage and items. with a bed area that you can stand up in, sit in, and even cook in, I find it not so appealing to have to sleep up high via a folding platform like in the Alu-Cab, or pictured here how @Mules has done. not that this is by any means a bad ideal. But to me it somewhat negates the purpose of being able to sit/stand inside the bed if you have to do all this work to raise/lower a platform and possibly even still access it from outside. But that means if I did want to sleep more in the canopy area, my sleeping area width is reduced quite a lot. The water cans and recovery gear are not really an issue, however the water heater is kinda in the way. I don't want to pivot it toward the door opening as that is where the shower head will come out at.

The width here is about 2'. A little wider over top of the wheel well of course. But the fridge was raised about 5 inches to accommodate the slide out kitchen top area. That also poses a problem with a nice wide platform. Usually I am camping solo, but it would be nice to be able to accommodate another person should that occur. Which means either I need to lower the fridge, and relocate the water heater, or compromise on height some. I am not sure which yet I would prefer.

 

[RudeJeepin]

@chorky you could look into "tool rolls" some have removable bags. Something like this.
Rhino USA Tool Bag Roll https://a.co/d/162YrRt

 

[chorky]

@chorky you could look into "tool rolls" some have removable bags. Something like this.
Rhino USA Tool Bag Roll https://a.co/d/162YrRt

That is most likely what I will end up doing. I just need to find ones that work, and probably get a couple of them to stack together. I tried a different solution a few months ago and it really didn't work out how I had hoped. Part of the issue too though is I have far too many tools than I reasonably need. I need to find or make a list of all the sockets/wrenches I have actually used so far o this build. That's going to be time consuming unfortunately.

 

[Mules]

I’d recommend mocking up the interior with plywood and cardboard boxes. This really helped me with my layout.

 

[chorky]

I’d recommend mocking up the interior with plywood and cardboard boxes. This really helped me with my layout.

I was definitely thinking of doing this, but I need to sort out a few of the existing mounting locations of some items first to somewhat free up some space.

 

[Jaxmax]

Chad, your batteries could be relocated under the step at your rear seat delete, and getting water in one of those 10 -19 gallon tanks that only take up a few inches at front of bed will help you make room in the bed, if it's going to be your living space make it as clear as you can.
I guess I'm going to throw it out there before you really get into the RTT and canopy cutout, is that the tent you want to use, it will be hard to change later, get the best you think will work, you can clean it up and sell , and put towards something different.....Jack

 

[chorky]

Chad, your batteries could be relocated under the step at your rear seat delete, and getting water in one of those 10 -19 gallon tanks that only take up a few inches at front of bed will help you make room in the bed, if it's going to be your living space make it as clear as you can.
I guess I'm going to throw it out there before you really get into the RTT and canopy cutout, is that the tent you want to use, it will be hard to change later, get the best you think will work, you can clean it up and sell , and put towards something different.....Jack

Maybe if I was using lithium, but that would extend my wire run pretty significantly. Remember my main distribution block is all in the right rear of the bed. I just finished rewiring a bunch of stuff and would like to find a way to make that work. As for the water can's, I purposefully stuck with the scepter 5gal cans as I am able to pick them up when full. Last summer there were a few occasions where I needed to refill on water but the only options was an old school hand pump well. The water was safe for drinking, but I was one of the few who was able to easily fill my water cans and get going. Others had to either figure a way to funnel water into their tanks or go without and conserve as much as possible. But I do agree that maximizing floor space is pretty important. One of the bigger tasks is to sort out my kitchen setup. That will be a challenge.

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