$340 to do the coil packs and spark plugs

[ShadowsPapa]

I’m honestly surprised the dealership was only going to charge 500 for all that, sounds fair in this day and age.

At a dealership, it's nearly an afternoon. If that dealership charges like they do around here, and spend 2.5 hours, it's 2.5 times 175-200 per hour. There's your 500 bucks.

That was with me buying the 3 oil change and tire rotation package for $179 which seemed super cheap to me as well. I bought that and he said they would do the spark plugs and coil packs for $500. That would of been fair as well.

$500 is very fair for a dealership in my opinion, based on hourly rates here.

I don't think Bill said either way, only that you're due for a change.

Personally, I usually run the best plugs I can buy for the vehicle unless I'm planning on unloading it in the near future. Decent plugs are a cheap investment in accurate spark, and given the finicky nature of modern engines (and random CELs) , it's a small increase in price for consistent spark as the mileage gets up there.

Couldn't agree more.

I'd frankly go back to the factory Champion but have never had bad luck with Autolite in other things I've owned.

There's the voltage it takes to jump the gap, then the power required to keep the spark alive long enough. A spark plug that's worn or bad might "spark" but take too much energy to keep the spark flowing.
It would sure be nice if these were as easy to put on a big scope as things were in the past. I can put my 1994 4.0 on a scope and know exactly what's going on.

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[BourbonRunner]

It would sure be nice if these were as easy to put on a big scope as things were in the past. I can put my 1994 4.0 on a scope and know exactly what's going on.

I'm nowhere in the same hemisphere as mechanically inclined as you are but I really do like the simplicity of mechanical systems with minimal electrical control/spark.

Now everything is so intertwined and absurdly so. The Bronclette's Sync system is out of date. Now the seat memory won't automatically work anymore, and the lift gate handle won't unlock to a touch but the glass will. It only opens 2 pages of presents instead of all 6. Naturally, I was unable to get it to update over a USB stick. Weird, annoying gremlins.

I used to think Porsche vacuum operated locks were way too complicated.

 

[cranbiz]

I wouldn't run Autolite's. I have had bad experiences with them in other Mopars. I only run OEM Champion's or NGK Iridium's.

 

[DanW]

I wouldn't run Autolite's. I have had bad experiences with them in other Mopars. I only run OEM Champion's or NGK Iridium's.

Yep, Chrysler/Jeep engines are known to like Champion plugs and not much else. I tried NGK Irridiums in my 3.8 JK engine and it was horrendous. Pinged like crazy, and yes, the gaps were correct. Went back to the Champs and it ran flawlessly.

My JLUR is at 93k and will get new plugs in the Fall. I will do it myself and will go with the OEM.

Btw, a friend ran his older (JK) Pentastar to about 140k miles before changing the plugs. It was shocking how well it was running. I drive my JL back to back with my JT all the time and the JL (93k miles) runs exactly the same as the JT at 42k miles, which is to say, perfectly. I doubt I'll know a difference from old to new when I do it around 100k.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

Bought the Champions and returned the auto lites. Never had a issue with auto lites in my 2010 JKU but a $15 difference is worth the peace of mind. I'm towing now so last thing I need is an issue with a 6000lb camper behind me.

 

[cranbiz]

Yep, Chrysler/Jeep engines are known to like Champion plugs and not much else. I tried NGK Irridiums in my 3.8 JK engine and it was horrendous. Pinged like crazy, and yes, the gaps were correct. Went back to the Champs and it ran flawlessly.

My JLUR is at 93k and will get new plugs in the Fall. I will do it myself and will go with the OEM.

Btw, a friend ran his older (JK) Pentastar to about 140k miles before changing the plugs. It was shocking how well it was running. I drive my JL back to back with my JT all the time and the JL (93k miles) runs exactly the same as the JT at 42k miles, which is to say, perfectly. I doubt I'll know a difference from old to new when I do it around 100k.

I never had a problem with the NGK's. I have them in 2 of my 3 Pentastar's. The JT still has the OEM Champions but it's only got 18K on it.

 

[Hootbro]

Bought the Champions and returned the auto lites. Never had a issue with auto lites in my 2010 JKU but a $15 difference is worth the peace of mind. I'm towing now so last thing I need is an issue with a 6000lb camper behind me.

If by chance you have to gap them, do not use one of those old school coin type gap tools that drag to open it up. It will scrap the iridium coating off the center electrode. You want one that pries the the ground side electrode hook.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

If by chance you have to gap them, do not use one of those old school coin type gap tools that drag to open it up. It will scrap the iridium coating off the center electrode. You want one that pries the the ground side electrode hook.

I'll ask the guy doing the job how he's planning on doing it but appreciate the heads up on it.

 

[Hootbro]

I'll ask the guy doing the job how he's planning on doing it but appreciate the heads up on it.

I forgot you were having somebody do the job.

If you have not handed them off to your mechanic and can check and gap them yourself, I would recommend that.

 

[DarthAWM]

For parts and labor $500 isn't even a bad deal on that.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

For parts and labor $500 isn't even a bad deal on that.

My thought's were the same on it. It's normally a $650 job but Hendricks has a bunch of maintenance packages you can buy that give you significant discounts compared to just paying straight out to have it done. Just like the 3 oil change tire rotation package I bought, one oil change and tire rotation is $98 and that's on the cheaper side. The 3 oil change tire rotation package is $179, so your basically saving $115 on oil changes. It comes out to roughly $59 a oil change plus tire rotation on 4 37's, I'd almost be willing to pay someone $50 just to do the rotations so it's definitely worth it to me.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

I forgot you were having somebody do the job.

If you have not handed them off to your mechanic and can check and gap them yourself, I would recommend that.

He's coming to the house to do it Thursday morning so I'll probably just do it for him and then he will be ready to rock when he gets here.

 

[KevinC]

Bought the Champions and returned the auto lites. Never had a issue with auto lites in my 2010 JKU but a $15 difference is worth the peace of mind. I'm towing now so last thing I need is an issue with a 6000lb camper behind me.

You made a wise choice. Towing a camper (as you know) will increase the time spent in the higher RPM range. The Champions are better suited for that.

Every Champion I've bought in the last decade have been gapped correctly out the box. Maybe luck.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

You made a wise choice. Towing a camper (as you know) will increase the time spent in the higher RPM range. The Champions are better suited for that.

Every Champion I've bought in the last decade have been gapped correctly out the box. Maybe luck.

Good to know brother and thanks for the input. I was already on the fence because it was only a $15 difference in price but sometimes that $4.99 compared to $7.29 can make you do crazy things. I should of just bought champions. I'm just glad they got these memorial day sales going on exactly when I need it.

 

[BennieD]

Go with champions. Everyone else are second place! I had misfire on Autolite one time. Never again!

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