Diesel Gladiator Sway Bar Disconnect / Vehicle shut off problem

[Camaroboi13]

That said, as much as I complain my gladiator could be better, I just did John Bull and it was so easy I was bored.

Wait wait wait… you did John Bull and didn’t invite anyone???

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[Rusty PW]

I changed the title for you. But it doesn’t change that I wouldn’t recommend a diesel gladiator to someone. Mine is unreliable. It cannot be trusted deep in the back country. Not my fault the factory components are acting bezerk and the dealership doesn’t know why and that it’s a problem other people have without a legit solution. For what I use it for, I need to be able to trust it. But based off this forum, it gave me motivation to try to fix the problem. Maybe an after market sway bar who knows. Maybe I’ll get a Cadillac sedan instead and stop overlanding.

When you go back to the dealer. Have them check the wiring harness on the right side. There is a bracket, next to the exhaust that the harness may lay on. Over a period of time. It may rub through and cause all kinds of electrical issues. A couple of people have reported having that problem. The other place to look is behind the glove box. That's where the can bus connections are. Been a few reports with them causing issues.

 

[MarkusAurelius]

Too late. I have one.

Sarcasm aside, my 2008 JK had some weird issues and stranded me on the side of of a road. I unplugged the sway bar disconnect's electrical connection and the problems stopped. I installed a manual sway bar disconnect knob and never had another issue. Not sure if yours had anything to do with it, but I think those things can be wonky. I've never had an issue with my 2018 JL nor my JT, but if I do, that same manual disconnect is available and will be purchased.

I hope you get it resolved or find something you like and that it serves you well. Nobody likes or deserves a lemon.

Im going to disconnect it today and see if that changes things. Ive got a few weeks until this trip to the east coast

 

[MarkusAurelius]

I believe it is updated, but still basically the same design. I have read that the solenoid and software have been improved. My JK did fine with the manual knob installed in place of the solenoid. Mechanically, it never had an issue. Only something in the electronic or electrical part of the system.

My JLUR has 96,000 miles on it and I've used that disconnect many, many times and it's been just fine.

Unplugged the electrical sway bar disconnect plug and water trickled out. Could have been the issue I have no idea. Gonna roll around with it disconnected for a while to see

 

[Bonanza]

Wait wait wait… you did John Bull and didn’t invite anyone???

I downgraded John Bull on my list of fun trails. It's just a long rockgarden after the gatekeeper. Gold Mountain, yawn. Holcomb/Dishpan also getting worn out for me. Motino Wash right now is my favorite SoCal trail, and Cougar Buttes getting more and more fun. Hammers has a few trails I've liked but overall a tad above the gladiator's ability to do safely and without body damage.

 

[Rusty PW]

Unplugged the electrical sway bar disconnect plug and water trickled out. Could have been the issue I have no idea. Gonna roll around with it disconnected for a while to see

When you plug the plug back it. Put dielectrical grease in the plug ends. This will help keep the water out.

 

[Jefe1018]

So you got bad fuel a year ago and now a sway bar issue.. so the JT diesel is a turd for that?

Fix the sway bar. Move on with life. An electronic component will always be a failure point, maybe get a lynx system in there or anti rock and call it a day.

 

[Vtur]

I changed the title for you. But it doesn’t change that I wouldn’t recommend a diesel gladiator to someone. Mine is unreliable. It cannot be trusted deep in the back country. Not my fault the factory components are acting bezerk and the dealership doesn’t know why and that it’s a problem other people have without a legit solution. For what I use it for, I need to be able to trust it. But based off this forum, it gave me motivation to try to fix the problem. Maybe an after market sway bar who knows. Maybe I’ll get a Cadillac sedan instead and stop overlanding.

The swaybar issues are usually due to water seeped in and shorted out the board. You can convert it to manual disconnect or replace the board. Unfortunately, replacement board aren't available to purchase.

 

[DanW]

The swaybar issues are usually due to water seeped in and shorted out the board. You can convert it to manual disconnect or replace the board. Unfortunately, replacement board aren't available to purchase.

I highly recommend the manual knob. It's an inexpensive fix and 100% reliable. I ran it on my JK for 5 or 6 years and it's no big deal to get out and screw it in to disconnect at the trailhead and unscrew it when getting ready to get back on the road. At least on the JK, I could get my arm right down in there with no problem. On the JT, I would expect it to be the same.

While the button on the dash is nice, the knob is still easier than manual discos on a non-Rubicon. Much easier and less messy.

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

Wolfies Thoughts…

• Everything @Rusty PW posted above although I’d add to always own/use some CRC QD to clean these connectors as well. https://a.co/d/5dAVD6W
• It sounds like the fuel water separator was long overdue for draining. I’m incredulous that water in your fuel took six months to fix. I also wasn’t aware failure to do that could throw any code, only that it’s really bad for the engine. That seems completely unrelated to the swaybar.
• I’m also sort of shrugging on the sway bar issue. It’s not a common problem but electrical issues happen. Sounds like they replaced the swaybar assembly or perhaps the ASBM or BCM. You can’t buy just the control module that’s on the disconnect. Since you’ve got water in the connector it’s possible the tech didn’t properly seat it all the way when doing the diagnostics or replacing the sway bar which resulted in this new issue. You’re probably also unlikely to get water in this connector from road splash. When you drive through water off road, things will fail. People drive through mud, which is basically blasting grit, don’t clean their brakes upon returning from their trip and then complain about their pads or rotors wearing out or making noise.
• I gently pressure wash (wide nozzle)my undercarriage, engine and brakes whenever I return from an off road trip. Then I check and torque everything. Throw the maintenance schedule out the window if you off road your truck.
• Other forums have associated battery/power issues with this particular sway bar, 4x4 error. I know from my own experience that with everything being CAN on this truck any kind of power (battery)issue can manifest in a myriad of weird ways. We’re all starting to blame the wiring harness on these weird issues. Regardless of whether that’s correct or not, everyone with the 3.0 should be checking theirs.
• FYI Per the factory service manual: The actuator is a motor driven unit that engages and disengages the disconnecting stabilizer bar.
  The ASBS switch is integral to the Auxiliary Switch Bank Module (ASBM) which communicates over LIN to
  the Body Control Module (BCM). The Body Controller simply gates the switch request to the ASBS module
  and the LED request from the ASBS to the ASBM. There is no functionality in the BCM.
  When the stabilizer bar is disengaged/unlocked the LED in the switch will be SOLID. The LED will be OFF
  when the stabilizer bar is engaged/locked and will not automatically re-disengage without a customer request
  (switch actuation).
  The LED on the switch will flash for the following reasons:
  When the stabilizer bar disconnect or connect is "In Progress"
  The vehicle speed threshold has been exceeded with stabilizer bar disconnected (when transfer case is
  4LO or 4HI)
  The stabilizer bar was previously disconnected (in 4LO/4HI transfer case) and re-connected because
  transfer case was changed to N
  The ASBS module provides status messages which are displayed in the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC).
  cardiagn.com
  The ASBS module receives B+ from a switched ignition feed and has a connection to ground at all times.
  The ASBS module communicates over CAN-C.
• I would say that unless you’re having other electrical problems, this is likely not some bigger problem. Electrical components fail, especially if they have water in them. If this is your only problem I think switching brands is an over reaction. I’ve certainly had bigger problems on most of the Toyotas I or my family have owned. My experience with 5 Jeeps is that they’re pretty solidly reliable when wheeled hard as long as you do due diligence. The issues mostly are related to software, and the kinds of electrical component failures that all modern vehicles face regardless of whether they’re taken off road.
• All things being equal, Toyota probably does make a more reliable product. But that’s really a statistical game. They still had to replace thousands of frames on the last gen Tacoma. The new Tacoma model and the new 4Runner will undoubtedly have more problems until they discover and fix them. Any electrical system can fail and all software-based systems theoretically have infinite bugs. If you want a really reliable overland rig, import an old pre CAN Hilux and then replace anything inherently weak or past is estimated lifespan on the thing.
• You will encounter the exact same green labor, staffing shortage issues and OEM restrictions at any dealership for any make. My experience with Toyota service is that they’re awful. Jeep used to be relatively better. But all dealerships face the same issues.
• Lastly anytime you modify a vehicle and anytime you start taking one off road you will have more problems than you would otherwise. I don’t ever take my truck into the dealership without first doing my own diagnostics and checking obvious things like the battery, electrical connectors, unmarrying and removing my Tazer, checking relevant bolts, etc. Mud and water plays hell with trucks. I’ve noticed just the salt air from OBX is starting to corrode stuff all over my truck and overlanding equipment.

 

[Rusty PW]

The Power Wagon has a sway bar disconnect like the Rubicon. A lot of guys had problems with water in the connection. Once water gets in there. It will start to corrode the pins inside the plug. It's hard to diagnose any problem related to it.

 

[MarkusAurelius]

FINAL DIAGNOSIS AND NOTES:

Just got back from a 2 week Ohio to North Carolina trip. Not a single issue with the Sway bar disconnect plug disconnected. Final diagnosis, the first time my jeep went down last year was a super wierd electrical issue where they replaced some chip (most likely was blown due to me plugging my aircompressor in backwards causing a short prior to the trip) dealership fixed it with a new chip but also found water in the fuel system and replaced the entire thing.

Fast forward to this year, water was in that sway bar disconnect plug causing the error message. I just had PTSD from being stranded on the West Virginia turnpike the year prior with the same sway bar disconnect message.

As previously mentioned by some contributors to the thread, swapping to a manual sway bar disconnect would be ideal and would cut out the electrical reliability issues with such. This will most likely be a future upgrade.

Next on the list, regearing. That overland rig with all the extra weight and 37's was just bouncing between gears going uphill.

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