Winch battery disconnect and circuit breaker?

[RDakota]

I am getting ready to install my winch and do not want power to the winch at all times for overall safety issues so I will be installing a disconnect for sure. I was also thinking about protection for the times I will be using the winch and if there is a short in the winch, cable, etc. I dont think I want to use a fuse because they have to be replaced. So I am thinking about a disconnect switch and a resettable circuit breaker. Are there any downsides to this plan that I can’t think of? Any suggestions on possible circuit breakers? My winch gets delivered today so I won’t know what size until I see the manual. Thanks for any help I can get.

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[KevinM60]

I have this one installed and hooked up to one of my aux switches to power on and off.

https://a.co/d/2MErWSN

It’s on the left with the red connector caps on top

 

[RDakota]

I have this one installed and hooked up to one of my aux switches to power on and off.

https://a.co/d/2MErWSN

It’s on the left with the red connector caps on top

Unfortunately I don’t have the auxiliary switches. Not sure I want to add a switch and the wiring that goes with it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Unfortunately I don’t have the auxiliary switches. Not sure I want to add a switch and the wiring that goes with it.

You can easily use a manual disconnect like I did on my 2020, which also didn't have the aux switches.
My 2022 does have them so I went solenoid.
The positive about a manual switch - they can be really heavy duty and you need to open the hood to use them - which can act like a shield between winch cable/rope/strap, etc. and the windshield.

Nothing at all wrong with a manual switch. Some, like the Badlands Apex winch come with them.

As far as circuit breaker - good luck. I'll bet unless you bought a light-duty winch, you could be talking 400 amps or more on the draw under a heavy load with the cable already wrapped a time or two.
There's a lot of discussion on winch draws around here, and many are in the 400+ range.

With a cutoff switch, you can throw it open and take care of "shorts" or positive cable to ground issues.
If you wire it well, keeping clear of hot things, moving parts (like pulleys and suspension or steering parts) and do a good job, you aren't going to see any problem requiring a breaker.
Better off going fuse, IMO, if you want protection, and carry a couple of spares.
My snow plow has a 200 amp fuse, not a breaker. I'm fine with breakers for much smaller loads, but personally, and this is indeed just me and my thinking, I go fuses for heavier loads in the hundreds of amps.
I want it to open and stay that way until I investigate the problem myself.

 

[Lost1wing]

I have three different setups. Manual switch at the battery, direct connection to the battery ( no fuse and no switch) and a solenoid with a fuse. By far, the solenoid controlled by a switch is the most convenient. The direct connection setup I have, from the factory( Offroad vehicle) is nice, but I do worry about not having a fuse. The switch that I put on my last setup is probably the safest, but the most inconvenient. The biggest inconvenience is on me for closing the hood and then remembering that I didn't turn the switch off.

I prefer the solenoid with a fuse setup. I will be going that way with all of my setups as soon as I have time.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I prefer the solenoid with a fuse setup. I will be going that way with all of my setups as soon as I have time.

I waffled for a while after helping that guy out of the icy/snowy ditch. I had trouble walking around my Jeep and opening the hood and the switch of course was on the traffic side of my truck. Anyone sliding around on that ice I had trouble walking on would have nailed me.
And I thought - what if I'm buried myself - snow or mud............. still have to get around to the winch, but fewer steps at my age.

Your setup makes good sense. I suspect you may carry a spare fuse as well.
I had thought about a big fuse in a holder right next to my plow fuse, just never did it.
Maybe next time.

 

[KevinM60]

A convenient activation makes a big difference.
I think the ultimate would be a dash mounted power switch with a remote control because even without the remote you still have to get out and connect the controller if it’s wired.
I guess it all depends on what your set up for and how much work you want to do to get it set up and going.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

A convenient activation makes a big difference.
I think the ultimate would be a dash mounted power switch with a remote control because even without the remote you still have to get out and connect the controller if it’s wired.
I guess it all depends on what your set up for and how much work you want to do to get it set up and going.

Love my Badlands winch remote - can be wired or wireless. So if the remote battery dies or whatever, you plug it in and flip a switch.
I also like being able to stand way out of the way when using long ropes/straps/chains, not tied to the winch with a cabled remote.
I've seen things snap and make really bad dents in metal, bust tractor windshields and so on. Call me paranoid.

 

[Heater]

I use an Anderson connector. Have the one connected to my battery mounted to the frame rail with the weather cover on it. The one from my winch is tucked into the bumper. Easy to connect when needed and leave it connected if desired. Custom cables are available in different lengths. I got mine from Amazon, made in USA as well.

I also use the one from the battery to power my Viair 450 compressor and have an Energizer 30’ long jumper cable to attach as well.

Very convenient.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I use an Anderson connector. Have the one connected to my battery mounted to the frame rail with the weather cover on it. The one from my winch is tucked into the bumper. Easy to connect when needed and leave it connected if desired. Custom cables are available in different lengths. I got mine from Amazon, made in USA as well.

I also use the one from the battery to power my Viair 450 compressor and have an Energizer 30’ long jumper cable to attach as well.

Very convenient.

So you have battery power all the way to the bumper?
If so, you are defeating the reason behind the disconnect, and that's to keep a bazillion amps of battery power in the engine bay, not on the frame or other areas likely damaged in an accident.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I have three different setups. Manual switch at the battery, direct connection to the battery ( no fuse and no switch) and a solenoid with a fuse. By far, the solenoid controlled by a switch is the most convenient. The direct connection setup I have, from the factory( Offroad vehicle) is nice, but I do worry about not having a fuse. The switch that I put on my last setup is probably the safest, but the most inconvenient. The biggest inconvenience is on me for closing the hood and then remembering that I didn't turn the switch off.

I prefer the solenoid with a fuse setup. I will be going that way with all of my setups as soon as I have time.

Not sure how the switch controlled solenoid would be the "most convenient" at all, let alone "by far" when compared to the hard wired version. Yes it's just the push of a button, but it's still one small step more inconvenient than hard wired?

 

[Lost1wing]

Not sure how the switch controlled solenoid would be the "most convenient" at all, let alone "by far" when compared to the hard wired version. Yes it's just the push of a button, but it's still one small step more inconvenient than hard wired?

Hard wired yes! I have a switch for the positive cable under the hood. That is the inconvenience, opening the hood to gain access to the switch, if even possible as ShadowsPapa mentioned. Hard wired direct to the battery is the most convenient, but without a cutoff of some kind, it could be quite dangerous. I like flipping a switch in the cab and go. Oh, and plug in the controller. The Apex has the wireless controller, but that is the one I have with the cutoff switch under the hood. The hardwired Warn that I have was installed at the Mahindra factory in Michigan. No fuse, no switch, just a plug in controller. Easiest by far, but if it was in a vehicle for highway use, I'd have a cutoff switch or at least a fuse.

 

[Zachanadandy]

Hard wired yes! I have a switch for the positive cable under the hood. That is the inconvenience, opening the hood to gain access to the switch, if even possible as ShadowsPapa mentioned. Hard wired direct to the battery is the most convenient, but without a cutoff of some kind, it could be quite dangerous. I like flipping a switch in the cab and go. Oh, and plug in the controller. The Apex has the wireless controller, but that is the one I have with the cutoff switch under the hood. The hardwired Warn that I have was installed at the Mahindra factory in Michigan. No fuse, no switch, just a plug in controller. Easiest by far, but if it was in a vehicle for highway use, I'd have a cutoff switch or at least a fuse.

That was my point, you compared all 3 and said the solenoid was the most convenient. Obviously a manual disconnect under the hood is less convenient, but truly hard wired right to the battery like it's been done for a lifetime is still the most convenient. I personally have never worked about a disconnect across a half dozen docent vehicles, but if I were concerned I think I'd just do an under hood circuit breaker with no disconnect.

 

[Heater]

So you have battery power all the way to the bumper?
If so, you are defeating the reason behind the disconnect, and that's to keep a bazillion amps of battery power in the engine bay, not on the frame or other areas likely damaged in an accident.

Yes.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Yes.

So you really don't have a disconnect, then.
We are talking about switches next to the battery that avoids battery power out front - in cables that can get smashed, scraped or mangled in an accident.
To me it makes no sense to run cables all the way to the front and then have things plug in up there. It's the same as no disconnect.

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