Single or two piece axle?

[Flyin6]

Continuing with my build (22 JTR) I am about to purchase the Teraflex big brake kit (4-wheel) and upgrade to forged axles.

Regarding the axles, I will likely be going with the Yukon forged rear axle set. For the front I am considering either the Yukon or the RCV set. Knowing the RCV set is stronger, it then makes the geats the "fusible link." Maybe it would be better to have the U-joint grenade??? Next consideration is the front axle disconnect. I am thinking I want to lose that. Not only is it a weak link, but with removing it I eliminate a possible issue should the disconnecting mechanicals/electronics ever fail.

I'm sure many have considered the same things. What would be your thoughts?

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[Flyin6]

Follow on thoughts: With respect to the Yukon vs the RCV axles the Yukon units obviously use standard U-joints. We all know that at more extreme steering angles the tire rotation is not "linear,: per see. It rather "ratchets" due to the angular differences with 4-points of transfer. This causes that skipping which in my mind sets up shock waves which can contribute to U-joint or axle failure.

Conversely, the RCV units provide for a smooth wheel rotation at all angles which eliminate these shock forces. So even though they are stronger and wouldn't break anyway, wouldn't the overall effect of shock forces be lessened through the entirety of the front axle assembly?

 

[RodRecket]

Are you DD it? I went with RCVs w/ FAD. They still warranty the shafts to a 43" tire. Everything behaves like a stock vehicle on the road and I still get the strength and turning benefits of a RCV on the trail. Running 38s on a DD and hit some pretty tough trails all over the country.

Edit: My thoughts on RCV w/ FAD is that I'm more likely to break the D44 housing at the FAD than the shafts themselves.

 

[Flyin6]

Are you DD it? I went with RCVs w/ FAD. They still warranty the shafts to a 43" tire. Everything behaves like a stock vehicle on the road and I still get the strength and turning benefits of a RCV on the trail. Running 38s on a DD and hit some pretty tough trails all over the country.

Edit: My thoughts on RCV w/ FAD is that I'm more likely to break the D44 housing at the FAD than the shafts themselves.

DD??? Not really. I often drive my 3500 dually, well until I get tired of never being able to park it anywhere, then I switch to the Jeep for a little while. 2022 JT, with a lot of trips, still under 20K

OK, pretty solid vote for two piece RCV...Thanks

Question: Are you using stock brakes?

 

[RodRecket]

DD??? Not really. I often drive my 3500 dually, well until I get tired of never being able to park it anywhere, then I switch to the Jeep for a little while. 2022 JT, with a lot of trips, still under 20K

OK, pretty solid vote for two piece RCV...Thanks

Question: Are you using stock brakes?

Stock rear brakes (rotors/pads replaced after an axle seal leak @25k miles 50k now)

Stock calipers up front w/ PowerStop Z36 Extreme Truck and Tow Brake Rotor and Pad Kit

I'm happy with the combo. We'll see how Moab goes this years since I regeared so steeply (5.38s)

 

[Flyin6]

Stock rear brakes (rotors/pads replaced after an axle seal leak @25k miles 50k now)

Stock calipers up front w/ PowerStop Z36 Extreme Truck and Tow Brake Rotor and Pad Kit

I'm happy with the combo. We'll see how Moab goes this years since I regeared so steeply (5.38s)

I would rate my brakes as PDG (pretty darn good) but I boiled my brake fluid coming down the Corkscrew and overheated them descending Pikes Peak.

 

[Sweetums]

I'm in favor of the u-joint being a disabled link, it's small, cheap, and easy to swap on the trail.

 

[Flyin6]

I'm in favor of the u-joint being a disabled link, it's small, cheap, and easy to swap on the trail.

...Which is one of the strong points for this choice. That and the U-joint axles are less than half the cost of the RCVs

 

[Minty JL]

Not to sound like a hater or a troll. But Yukon product and customer service is hammered dogshit. Since the were bought out a couple years ago, everything is outsourced to China with chinesium metal. My ring and pinion took a shit with only 11k miles on them.

RCVa or the Carbon axles from @Metalcloak is the way to go and made in the USA. Just do want to see a fellow brother in arms waste money on something that's bound to fail

 

[Flyin6]

Not to sound like a hater or a troll. But Yukon product and customer service is hammered dogshit. Since the were bought out a couple years ago, everything is outsourced to China with chinesium metal. My ring and pinion took a shit with only 11k miles on them.

RCVa or the Carbon axles from @Metalcloak is the way to go and made in the USA. Just do want to see a fellow brother in arms waste money on something that's bound to fail

OK, point taken.
But
I am really good friends with one of their executives. I buy stuff from them quite frequently. I am running their 5.13's for maybe 18,000 miles so far. I can hear them but they run OK. I'll ask my friend about their axles. True, for any price, I do not want to install inferior parts.
Thanks

 

[Minty JL]

OK, point taken.
But
I am really good friends with one of their executives. I buy stuff from them at a huge discount. I am running their 5.13's for maybe 18,000 miles so far. I can hear them but they run OK. I'll ask my friend about their axles. True, for any price, I do not want to install inferior parts.
Thanks

Having an inside connection is good......but doesn't help when it break on a road trip or put on the trail. You're a smart guy, so I'm sure you'll make the best decision that fits your needs. Just felt obligated to let you know of my experience.

Both of the major Jeep shops in Maryland near me will NOT install Yukon products because they've been burned so many times in the last 4 years.

 

[Bbannongmu]

Yukon anything concerns me. Their quality control seems to be terrible. Recommend finding a US, Canada or European manufacturers vs. Chinese.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/yukon-gear-fail-at-50k-miles.88590/

 

[BlueScapegoat]

We all know that at more extreme steering angles the tire rotation is not "linear,: per see. It rather "ratchets" due to the angular differences with 4-points of transfer.

Well you're ahead of most. I wouldn't say that's common knowledge, even on this forum.

I grew up wheeling in Appalachia. I've seen a fair share of u-joints flung out the bottom of vehicles when the driver is in a throttle down wheel spin in a wet hill climb situation and they start sawing the wheel back and forth. That's where the RCVs shine.

I think in regards to a CV vs Cardan joint the decision depends on the type of wheeling you do. RCVs are high maintenance. Daily driver, climate. Type of wheeling. You a throttle out person or do you crawl everything? In theory the trail repair-ability of u-joints is nice but it's not uncommon for them to take an ear out on the way. I wheel the piss out of my TJ and it's not a DD. It's got RCVs. I'll be sticking with u-joints on my DD Gladiator, but it's a long distance expedition rig that is subjected to much milder wheeling and salty roads.

 

[JTPatriot]

I have 38's with 4.88 gears and a 5.7 Hemi. Stock brakes and pull my 18' camper to Colorado and Moab. I installed Revolution rear shafts and RCV with FAD. Mine is a daily driver, 50,000 miles and no issues. I kept the FAD for less wear on front end.

 

[Flyin6]

Well you're ahead of most. I wouldn't say that's common knowledge, even on this forum.

I grew up wheeling in Appalachia. I've seen a fair share of u-joints flung out the bottom of vehicles when the driver is in a throttle down wheel spin in a wet hill climb situation and they start sawing the wheel back and forth. That's where the RCVs shine.

I think in regards to a CV vs Cardan joint the decision depends on the type of wheeling you do. RCVs are high maintenance. Daily driver, climate. Type of wheeling. You a throttle out person or do you crawl everything? In theory the trail repair-ability of u-joints is nice but it's not uncommon for them to take an ear out on the way. I wheel the piss out of my TJ and it's not a DD. It's got RCVs. I'll be sticking with u-joints on my DD Gladiator, but it's a long distance expedition rig that is subjected to much milder wheeling and salty roads.

Excellent points!
My take-away so far is:
RCV's won't break, but they are high maintenance
I am a bit alarmed that the Yukon stuff is of questionable quality. I plan to give Tate a call and get some insider info regarding. I had heard and thought they had moved forging to India, not China. Some company that forges Mahindra tractor axles. Consider that here-say until I can do some more homework.
I think that while I research this because the Yukon rear axle assemblies are really inexpensive, I'll look for some American manufacture axles. Once I get it all sorted it is going to be a decision involving compromise. RCV would not break, but I'll be greasing them regularly. Carden axles would cost less, be trail repairable but as stated, might also take or twist an axle ear on their way south.
No one size fits all here.
At least I am confident in the Tera Flex brake set

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